Pond PVC? :-)

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  #1  
Old 07-01-2007, 01:43 AM


I was going to use ABS for my bottom drain, but each coupling is another
chance for a leak and I need about 3 joins. Plus the couplings will make the
pipe that much bigger, something I don't need for my tunneling project. But
I was on the Home Depot site and I saw this flexible PVC. It's funny looking
stuff, kinda looks like non kink hose with the ridges filled in. It looks
different than the standard sprinkler PVC I've seen. I checked a couple of
pond sites and one carries the funny looking stuff and the other looks more
like the standard PVC I'm used too. But it's a little hard to tell from the
blurry pictures.

So does the funny stuff exist or is it my imagination? How does it compare
to the standard flexible PVC?



Bill Stock
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  #2  
Old 07-01-2007, 08:32 AM
JoeT
 
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"Bill Stock" <> wrote in message
news:...
>I was going to use ABS for my bottom drain, but each coupling is another
>chance for a leak and I need about 3 joins. Plus the couplings will make
>the pipe that much bigger, something I don't need for my tunneling project.
>But I was on the Home Depot site and I saw this flexible PVC. It's funny
>looking stuff, kinda looks like non kink hose with the ridges filled in. It
>looks different than the standard sprinkler PVC I've seen. I checked a
>couple of pond sites and one carries the funny looking stuff and the other
>looks more like the standard PVC I'm used too. But it's a little hard to
>tell from the blurry pictures.
>
> So does the funny stuff exist or is it my imagination? How does it compare
> to the standard flexible PVC?
>


The "funny stuff" is reinforced. It's generally less susceptible to kinking
and crushing than the standard flexible pvc.
When it comes to construction of the bottom drain, the bigger the inside
diameter and more solid the attachment and support structure (especially at
the drain) the better in the long run. That's the last part of the build you
want to deal with doing over. <grin>

joe

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  #3  
Old 07-01-2007, 10:57 AM
Phyllis and Jim
 
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Joe is right about the size and firmness of the drain. How big had
you planned finally to make it? If it is your main bottom drain, you
will want it pretty big. If you put plenty of cement on the joint,
you should have no problem with the pipe joints (easier for me to say
than for you to do). Our drain system is 2" rigid pvc. No problems
for a decade.

Jim

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  #4  
Old 07-01-2007, 05:35 PM
Hal
 
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On Sat, 30 Jun 2007 22:43:12 CST, "Bill Stock" <>
wrote:

>I was going to use ABS for my bottom drain, but each coupling is another
>chance for a leak and I need about 3 joins. Plus the couplings will make the
>pipe that much bigger, something I don't need for my tunneling project. But
>I was on the Home Depot site and I saw this flexible PVC. It's funny looking
>stuff, kinda looks like non kink hose with the ridges filled in. It looks
>different than the standard sprinkler PVC I've seen. I checked a couple of
>pond sites and one carries the funny looking stuff and the other looks more
>like the standard PVC I'm used too. But it's a little hard to tell from the
>blurry pictures.
>
>So does the funny stuff exist or is it my imagination? How does it compare
>to the standard flexible PVC?


I used 4" schedule 40 PVC with long sweeps for turns and a Tetra drain
on my bottom drain. I doubt I'll dig it up again. If it should plug
I can easily shove a water hose through it, or plumbers tape.

Regards,

Hal

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  #5  
Old 07-01-2007, 07:26 PM
Phyllis and Jim
 
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Hal

4" is better! Will it ever drain a pond in a HURRY!

Jim

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  #6  
Old 07-01-2007, 07:26 PM
Bill Stock
 
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"Phyllis and Jim" <> wrote in message
news: oups.com...
> Joe is right about the size and firmness of the drain. How big had
> you planned finally to make it? If it is your main bottom drain, you
> will want it pretty big. If you put plenty of cement on the joint,
> you should have no problem with the pipe joints (easier for me to say
> than for you to do). Our drain system is 2" rigid pvc. No problems
> for a decade.
>
> Jim


Bottom drain will be 3" Tetra, not set in cement I don't think. But I
haven't quite got that far yet.

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  #7  
Old 07-02-2007, 09:38 PM
Hal
 
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On Sun, 1 Jul 2007 16:26:58 CST, "Bill Stock" <>
wrote:

>Bottom drain will be 3" Tetra, not set in cement I don't think. But I
>haven't quite got that far yet.


I set mine in Georgia clay and didn't think it would ever move, but it
did move a bit, but not disastrous. If I did it again I would take
the time and use cement. Even if I had to build a mock up to get it
right.

Regards,

Hal

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  #8  
Old 07-02-2007, 09:38 PM
Hal
 
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On Sun, 1 Jul 2007 16:26:24 CST, Phyllis and Jim
<> wrote:

> Hal
>
>4" is better! Will it ever drain a pond in a HURRY!
>
>Jim


Not likely the bottom drain is hooked to a three barrel filter on the
same waterline as the pond, with the pump in the third barrel and the
pump is 1800 gph. It can only pump the barrels half empty except the
last one, so the pump would only remove half the water in the pond.

Regards,

Hal

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  #9  
Old 07-03-2007, 12:44 AM
Bill Stock
 
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"Hal" <> wrote in message
news:...
> On Sun, 1 Jul 2007 16:26:58 CST, "Bill Stock" <>
> wrote:
>
>>Bottom drain will be 3" Tetra, not set in cement I don't think. But I
>>haven't quite got that far yet.

>
> I set mine in Georgia clay and didn't think it would ever move, but it
> did move a bit, but not disastrous. If I did it again I would take
> the time and use cement. Even if I had to build a mock up to get it
> right.
>
> Regards,
>
> Hal


Did you leave any slack in the liner around the drain?

I'll have to work out the kinks once I actually lay my hands on one. I don't
plan to dig up the existing pond until I'm closer to getting the piping
done. I bored the concrete on the weekend, but did not start the
'tunneling'. Pesky rennovations saved me from the 'good stuff'. :-)

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  #10  
Old 07-03-2007, 10:18 AM
Hal
 
Posts: n/a
On Mon, 2 Jul 2007 21:44:14 CST, "Bill Stock" <>
wrote:

>Did you leave any slack in the liner around the drain?
>

No, in fact because there was about a 1 in 4 foot drop/taper to the
center, it was sort of a stress point, since it was bolted, glued into
the liner at that point and pulled, gently, from the sides. I
couldn't work all the wrinkles out because of the tapered bottom and
wouldn't allow more than a couple inches difference if I were doing it
again. I can't see the liner needing any slack. I used Permalon as a
liner, but rubber will give a bit and .040 should work fine as well.

>I'll have to work out the kinks once I actually lay my hands on one. I don't
>plan to dig up the existing pond until I'm closer to getting the piping
>done. I bored the concrete on the weekend, but did not start the
>'tunneling'. Pesky rennovations saved me from the 'good stuff'. :-)


The reason I said I would take my time planning the concrete, the
instructions with my bottom drain were a bit vague to me, so I
calculated for myself how much space I wanted between the dome
perimeter and the liner when it was set. The tapered bottom that I
wanted made it more difficult to make measurements under the dome, but
I was pleased when I finished. A year or so later I noticed fry in
the filter barrels and found they could pass freely under the dome and
when I checked the dome clearance between it's perimeter and the liner
it had moved enough to allow the opening to increase to what looks
like more than 1/2 inch maybe 5/8. That wasn't a serious problem,
just wasn't what I expected. With concrete and a mockup of the drain
I could have formed exactly what I wanted it to be and it would be
exactly as I formed it years later. The instructions warned me to use
cement, but I had plenty of confidence in Georgia clay.

Regards,

Hal

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