Bio-barrel: Using the inlet as a drain?

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I'm planning for building a new biofilter using a 55-gal drum, with the typical inlet of a T-pipe going to a pair of 90-degree elbows so the incoming water swirls inside the bottom of the barrel. I'm wonder if there is any problem with placing the inlet pipe directly on the bottom of the barrel (and piping it out down through the bottom of the barrel), then outside the barrel using a pair of ball-valves -- one to shut off water flow to the pump, and the second to open a drain pipe. This would eliminate cutting an extra hole for a drain pipe.

Hopefully the description makes sense... I'm just wondering why ever filter design I've read calls for using a separate drain plug, instead of making use of the pipe that's already there? Anyone see a problem with this?
 

addy1

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I have done that with other things, not a 55 gal drum, has worked well
 

koiguy1969

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make sure you install a check valve between the pump and filter in case the pump stops for any reason like power outage etc.. so the filter wont "backwash" back into the pond.
 
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Hmm I forgot about backwash. My current filter, I have a small hole tapped into the pipe (which goes up over the top of the barrel, skippy-style). This serves as an indicator to me of how well the pump is doing (if the pump gets clogged, the small stream of water drops off or stops), but also provides an air inlet to prevent water siphoning from the filter back to the lower pond.

I suppose if I want to do something similar in the new setup, I could tap in a small line before the first ball-valve. OK cool, I think this will work then. Thanks!
 
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I thought that the reason for raising the swirlers was to allow the sludge to have someplace to settle out of the flow. . . if they are right on the bottom, doesn't that kind of defeat the purpose? Won't the stuff stay in solution?
 

hewhoisatpeace

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Good call, Mark. Also, if the filter is backwashing through the swirler elbows, you won't be draining the center crap collection pit of the filter. Unless I am misunderstanding the original post. I'm becoming less than convinced of the effectiveness of this filter style without an awesome mechanical prefilter, like a sieve or static kaldnes bed. I hate it when I learn too much!
 

DrDave

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The inlet cannot be the drain.

The swirl keeps it in the center of the bottom. Just like the Dyson (very expensive) vacuum cleaners. the water that comes out the topof mine is like bottled water and the dump is always dark green or black.
 
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I've actually been working on an idea for a DIY pre-filter as well. What I'd like to find is some sort of 1 or 2 gallon bucket (preferably wide and short) with a screw-on lid. About half way down, make a stand to support my filter media on. Cut a hole near the top for the intake, a hole near the bottom for the outlet. When I unscrew the lid, I can lift the dirty filter, along with anything sitting on top of it, straight out of the bucket. Should be easy maintenance, and I can bury the whole thing with only the lid left above ground (and easily hidden).

OK so the swirl keeps the worst of the crap in the center. It sounds like it would be beneficial to hit the bottom of the barrel with a heat-gun and allow it to bow downward, giving more of a bowl shape for the sediment to settle in to. If there's a reason to have the drain out the center bottom, I have no problem with that, just didn't want to cut extra holes for no reason.
 
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koiguy1969 said:
make sure you install a check valve between the pump and filter in case the pump stops for any reason like power outage etc.. so the filter wont "backwash" back into the pond.

Yes, yes, yes. I just did that with my new pond. It is going to save me so much trouble. Wish I had done that with the old one.
 
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Shdwdrgn said:
I've actually been working on an idea for a DIY pre-filter as well. What I'd like to find is some sort of 1 or 2 gallon bucket (preferably wide and short) with a screw-on lid. About half way down, make a stand to support my filter media on. Cut a hole near the top for the intake, a hole near the bottom for the outlet. When I unscrew the lid, I can lift the dirty filter, along with anything sitting on top of it, straight out of the bucket. Should be easy maintenance, and I can bury the whole thing with only the lid left above ground (and easily hidden).

OK so the swirl keeps the worst of the crap in the center. It sounds like it would be beneficial to hit the bottom of the barrel with a heat-gun and allow it to bow downward, giving more of a bowl shape for the sediment to settle in to. If there's a reason to have the drain out the center bottom, I have no problem with that, just didn't want to cut extra holes for no reason.


Some of my pool chemicals come in a bucket like that. Check with pool companies and see if they can help you out.
 

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