DIY "pipe boot" as Bulkhead fitting......?

[Mmathis]

This could have gone under the "DIY" section, but I thought it fit "construction" better....

Has anyone done this? Was it effective? How did it stand up, long-term? Pros, cons?


http://www.bickal.com/pipeboot/index.htm

 

[morewater]

Sure you can use them. Just remember to glue them to the liner, just as you would with an EPDM patch. You'll commonly see them used on roof sewer stacks.

If using a regular bulkhead fitting, they're unnecessary.

It's like wearing suspenders when you're already wearing a belt.

 

[Mmathis]

@morewater, I just tried to send you a PM, but the system wouldn't allow it. I don't know if it's on my end or GPF.

Did you follow the link to the site I posted above? This wasn't using a traditional pipe boot, but where the guy used the liner itself to act as the seal. He made 2 "gaskets" from excess liner, then cut the appropriate size hole in the liner, pushed the pipe through, and used a clamp over the "flanged" liner......

 

[morewater]

Yeah, I watched it. It seems like an awful lot of extra work that could be accomplished by simply using a screw-type bulkhead fitting.

 

[Mmathis]

Yeah, I watched it. It seems like an awful lot of extra work that could be accomplished by simply using a screw-type bulkhead fitting.

OK, that's the kind of feedback I need since I've never done either. Trying to find ways to avoid paying $$ for a 4" bulkhead fitting -- but only if it's an effective way.

 

[morewater]

Also, it looked to me like this guy had a poured concrete base with the bottom drain already set in the pour.

I'm not a fan of bottom drains, and I'm certainly not a fan of poured concrete. They're too difficult to repair if anything goes wrong with them. I've always advocated the portable bottom drain or a caterpillar drain system. Too often I come across people that have built features that were in no way every meant to be taken apart for repairs.

I can't count the number of times I've gone somewhere, to see something, only to find that the original contractor had wide-open access to the build site, used 1-2 ton stone, then the homeowner built sheds, fences, decks, etc., thus preventing equipment from ever getting back there for any future repairs.

 

[morewater]

OK, that's the kind of feedback I need since I've never done either. Trying to find ways to avoid paying $$ for a 4" bulkhead fitting -- but only if it's an effective way.

Try a toilet flange, 4" and accepts ABS pipe. Simply caulk behind it and screw it into the substrate once you've put it through the hole. They're all of about $4.

 

[Big Lou]

Okay Maggie, here's a completely different idea. You could simply run a high quality corrugated flexible hose from your bog output to your pond then place the end between heavy stone as shown in the following photo. The heavy stone forces the flexible hose to flatten somewhat giving outflow the look of coming from a weir. The supply hose is under ground except for the last few feet thus not seen. Simple, efficient and cheap. Zero back leaks. I discovered this solution by chance. Of course there are more formal ways to achieve this same result. May also work with constant low water pressure.

 

[Big Lou]

As you can obviously tell my DIY posts are made without fear of embarrassment.

 

[tbendl]

As they should be Big Lou. I'm always proud when I DIY something. Even if it doesn't work it usually gives me a way to make it work the next time.

 

[Mmathis]

I have fun when I go to Home Depot -- like a kid at Christmas, sometimes! The staff know me quite well, LOL! One day I'm gonna go to the PVC (plumbing) area for a legitimate plumbing issue, and they won't know what to think, as it seems most of my "projects" involve PVC in one way or another!

 

[Mmathis]

Okay Maggie, here's a completely different idea. You could simply run a high quality corrugated flexible hose from your bog output to your pond then place the end between heavy stone as shown in the following photo. The heavy stone forces the flexible hose to flatten somewhat giving outflow the look of coming from a weir. The supply hose is under ground except for the last few feet thus not seen. Simple, efficient and cheap. Zero back leaks. I discovered this solution by chance. Of course there are more formal ways to achieve this same result. May also work with constant low water pressure.

View attachment 75720

Neat idea! What I've come up with so far is similar, but not as nice/natural looking -- but will suffice for the time being. But now I have incentive to get creative . I found 4" PVC drainage tubing (solid, not the kind with holes). It only goes with specific fittings, but one of those is, I think, used to attach to a gutter down spout -- it's round on one end, and the other end is slightly off-set and rectangular. I still can't post pics due to the iOS 8 glitch, but here's a link that shows what it looks like. http://shop.gutterworks.com/4x6x6-White-PVC-Offset-tile-adapter.html. (And no, mine didn't cost that much!). It kinda reminded me of your idea in the way the water will exit the pipe.

 

[Big Lou]

Good idea. Hopefully you can find it locally.

 

[Mmathis]

Good idea. Hopefully you can find it locally.

I already have it -- Home Depot!

 

[Big Lou]

Great. Did you find the female threaded adapter?