Timber screws VS spikes/rebar

[zoos47]

Newbie here... building my first raised timber pond and super excited.

Though its more expensive, I am leaning toward 10" timber screws VS spikes / rebar to fasten 6 x 6 timbers together.

My reasoning: I hear that you really have to pound the rebar with a sledge hammer and use quite a bit of elbow grease. I plan on pouring a concrete footing so the timbers can be off the ground, and I fear cracking the concrete with all the sledge hammer strikes.

Does anyone advise against the screws? Is the rebar approach better / stronger? Just FYI, I am going 24-30" high and the timber framing will measure approx 3' x 16'.

Appreciate any advice. Thanks in advance!
Scott

 

[Timothy]

Newbie here... building my first raised timber pond and super excited.

Though its more expensive, I am leaning toward 10" timber screws VS spikes / rebar to fasten 6 x 6 timbers together.

My reasoning: I hear that you really have to pound the rebar with a sledge hammer and use quite a bit of elbow grease. I plan on pouring a concrete footing so the timbers can be off the ground, and I fear cracking the concrete with all the sledge hammer strikes.

Does anyone advise against the screws? Is the rebar approach better / stronger? Just FYI, I am going 24-30" high and the timber framing will measure approx 3' x 16'.

Appreciate any advice. Thanks in advance!
Scott

You would have to (should) drill pilot holes no matter which method you use. The rebar and spikes are OK to keep the timbers aligned, but not necessarily tight. The mechanical aspect of screws/lags is to draw the lower timber tight against the upper course and put the assembly in compression. With screws, you'll want to drill the pilot hole, and a recess for the screw head so the courses lay flat. A little more work, but I believe more secure. I'm guessing you're going for four/five courses. You didn't say where you were located, but climate might be a factor. The three foot side shouldn't be a problem assuming you're going to alternate timber courses and fasten them at the corners, but I think I'd be tempted to keep an open hole in the long side footers perhaps every five feet to allow for a rod to be passed from top to (and through) the footer to prevent the sides from bowing out over time from the weight of the water and/or freeze/thaw cycles. I don't know how effective this would be at the top, but at least it would prevent the bottom couple of courses from moving outward on the footer.
That's my $.02 worth. Someone else may chime in here pretty soon with some more idea's.

Welcome to the forum!

 

[mgmine]

I would bolt the first row down to the footer and nail the rest. Give the concrete a few days to cure and you shouldn't have a problem.

 

[zoos47]

Thanks guys! Appreciate!
Scott

 

[ChrisP]

Yeah, you do have to pound with rebar, but it's not that terrible. the impact will be absorbed by the wood and won't harm the concrete. (I've assembled that stuff in my garage)

Like Timothy said, screws will require a bit more work since you'll have to recess and stagger them.