22 replies to this topic

[Airic]

OK, I think I have it figured out. As you may be aware, my mud pond flutuates around 18" in water level due to having a spring source interanal to the pond. Spring, Fall, and Winter it provides lots of water and in summer it takes it away.

I have been trying to come up with a pre filter design that will adjust with the level of the water and think I got it but, need some review to be sure I'm not missing somthing. You may need to hit your zoom in the bottom right corner of your browser to see clearly. Its a little hard to visualize with just a side view but, it gives you the concept of things.

As for operation I think it will be perfect. Turn off the pump, close gate valve to the pond and then open the clean out valve. As the barrel drains it will rise out of the water. This will assist on the flush along with maintance access.

Let me know what your guys think.

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[Airic]

One question associated with this pre filter. If I'm using all 3" pipe what is my max GPH I can achieve?

[DrDave]

You need to go to the Internet and find a flow calculator. There are going to be a lot of variables here and you need to input those to get your calculations.

[Airic]

I think I'm OK but, I'll look it up to be safe. Think this concept has potential? Nothing is really standing out as wrong other than the added 90 deg bends which adds friction.

[DrDave]

Those 90 degree bends are not going to cooperate with the level changes without outside intervention.

[Airic]

This part may take some testing. I have a stand (?) pipe on my pond drain pipe with a threaded 90 and it can move pretty freely but, that's only one and this will be Four. Adding weight to the bottom may help.

[Airic]

Got the barrel and pipes today and figured out my bulkheads but, get to this later. I'm using 3" pipe and the venturi is not perfect bases upon the pipe size. Not bad but was wondering if I could use 2" where the pipe splits to two thinking I can get a better venturi. If my math is correct I'm loosing 1 sq in. What would you do?

[DrDave]

I think we need to get some of the resident plumbers involved. DrCase?

[Airic]

Well, I got my pre filter construction done. A few tweaks required but, I think it will work out nicely. I had used a bicycle tire for the float and it didn’t turn out like I had planned, I'll be replacing it with some rigid insulation. As for operation, I need to add some additional weight to the barrel but, it does submerge and float good as is. When doing the flush the barrel rises out of the water in seconds, almost too fast. As for sinking it take a few minutes and this is why additional weight may be needed. I thought I had taken some pictures of the finished product before putting it in the water but, in all the excitement of getting it done, I guess I forgot. I'll take some when I pull it back out. Within the next week or so I'm going to start digging the pit pocket and retaining wall for its final location. Had the filter running today with a cheap little submersible pump mounted up high within the filter and it did great. Only skimming and within about 2 hours half the pond scum was cleaned up, then my tire tube blew and the barrel sunk to the bottom letting all of the scum out again. Can’t wait to work the kinks out and put a big pump on it.

Here is a good find though. I was searching for bulkheads but, they cost around $50 for a 3". After looking for a while I realized I could use two toilet flanges. I also found rubber gaskets that are built for these flanges. I used no glue or silicon and the seal is perfect with no leaks. It’s actually better than the bulkheads I was looking at because I have a more secure connection to the barrel which is key to my design.

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[DrDave]

Nice photos, keep them coming. I love Development Engineering at its finest.

[nigil]

I like the bulkhead concept. I just paid $32 for two 2" bulkheads and need another way cause the wife is starting to notice the costs adding up. Thanks! looks good by the way so far.

[Airic]

Thank, see your an Indiana pond person too. Not sure if they make 2" toilet flanges but you could put reducers on if you have room. Got the filter a little more refined today. I'll take some photos of my build. Ended up making my barrel float with a sealed 3" pipe ring on the top. Much better and will hold up to abuse.

[DrDave]

2" shower drains are available at Home Depot for about $6.00.

[Airic]

I guess it depends if you are needing to go though with a pipe or stop the pipe flush with the barrel surface. Dr. Dave, can you extend through with a shower drain? Not looked at that close enough to know for sure.

[DrDave]

There are several designs, you will have to look at what is available at your store.