71 replies to this topic

[koiguy1969]

this is step by step instructions on building this filter.........you will need:
2 2" shower drains 1 straight thru and 1 offset(see pix)
4' of 1&1/2" pvc pipe
1 1&1/2" tee pipe
1 1&1/2" double input(street) tee (for filter input...see pix)
1 1&1/2" threaded cap reducer
1 threaded nipple hose adapter (for the size hose you use)
1 2" ball valve and enough 2" pipe to plumb your return and dump valve assembly to your liking.
and of course a drum
assembly:
***cut the lid off your drum if neccessary
***trace the inside of the gasket for the straight thru shower drain for your dump assembly
***cut out the hole (i used a heat gun and razor knife)
***while your there with the heat gun(or propane torch) flatten out the area a bit so the shower drain parts can seal to a flat surface...(easily done!!)
***evenly apply silicone sealant to surfaces and gaskets
***install the drain assembly and tighten firmly but not so tight that you can see the gaskets spead out and deform (this will cause bad seal) this is not a pressurized connection so it doesnt have to be wrenched down really tight

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[koiguy1969]

now the output(return)drain assembly (the off set shower drain)
***mark and cut your hole where you want it (pic 1)
***flatten the area for a smooth assembly and good seal
*** apply your sealant on your gaskets and surfaces that hit them (neaatly)(pic 2)
*** install the drain assembly as before only keep the offset (pipe connection)pointed up. this will allow the whole drain guard to be under water, and a higher water level to be maintained in drum.(see pic. 3)
*****you leave the drain guard on on this one to keep your media from escaping
****but take it off for the flush assembly as not to restrict any water flow when you you flush out the filter.

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[koiguy1969]

input plumbing....
plumbing peices laid out.........(pic 1)
oil pan with plumbing holes 2" holes for 1&1/2" pipe.....(pic 2)
upper input assembly.. notice style of tee pipe (steet pipe)....(pic. 3)
input plumbing ran thru oil pan and in drum..creates a 5" wide 8" deep channel for water to swirl and debris to travel lightly suspended....(pic 4)
this assembly is self explainatory.

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[koiguy1969]

here is the flush valve assembly the second pic is from the return or output, the stainless plate is attatched by two screws which you will remove for the flush assembly as stated earlier.

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[koiguy1969]

correction: in the second pic,that stainless plate is a snap in not screwed on like the one for the dump (flush assembly).. which is o.k because that stays anyways to keep any media from traveling out with the filtered water back to the pond.

i will be finaishing this filter and thread in the next day or so so reserve any questions untill i complete this instructional portion

[koiguy1969]

if you dont trust yourself cutting the holes in the drum for your drains with a heat gun or propane torch and knife....a 3&1/4" hole saw will do nicely.

[DrDave]

Harbor Freight sells cheap hole saws and for plastic they work great. I use mine a lot with pond projects.

[koiguy1969]

o.k... i made my bottom and top media grids
***the bottom one sets up on 9" legs and is to be left open so the assembly will remain full of air, giving some bouiancy to it and the media. the ring is made of the thicker walled irrigation tubing.and not shown but 3/4' pvc pipe will be slid over the legs for added strength. the bottom grid sits about 1&1/2" above oil pan top. which will have 1/4" holes drilled in its walls just below the top (actual bottom)
***the top one is full of sand to lightly push down on the media and hopefully keep it sandwiched and nicely in place...the half circle handle looking thing on the top rack is because i had tees, but no couplers so i used them, im gonna cut the tube and cap the ends.(thought about leaving it..but i dont think so)
***any thoughts on this design are appreciated before i put it to use....

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[koiguy1969]

this filter was built for the basement pond..i will be bringing in the media from outside to load this filter.

[koikeepr]

I agree that the harbor freight hole saws are the cheapest! And make sure that when you buy one, you get it 1/4" wider than your pipe, so that the exterior of the pipe fits through.

For example, if you're looking to attach a 2" pvc pipe, you buy a 2 1/4" hole saw. If you buy a 2" hole say, your fitting won't fit through the hole as you have to account for the external circumference of the pipe.

Nice work on your descrip here Koiguy!

[DrDave]

Good point! Most people don't know that pipe is measured inside, not outside. Tubing on the other hand is measured on the outside. You would think they could have made it easy.

Nice job Koiguy! You have given me ideas for when I rebuild mine, that is if I can get it out of the waterfall. LOL

[koiguy1969]

koikeepr said:

I agree that the harbor freight hole saws are the cheapest! And make sure that when you buy one, you get it 1/4" wider than your pipe, so that the exterior of the pipe fits through.

For example, if you're looking to attach a 2" pvc pipe, you buy a 2 1/4" hole saw. If you buy a 2" hole say, your fitting won't fit through the hole as you have to account for the external circumference of the pipe.

Nice work on your descrip here Koiguy!

that depends on the thickness of the pvc walls i used a 2" hole saw for my 1&1/2" pipe because its 1/4" thick walled. so at least 1/4" bigger.

[aviator79]

ya, I bought a 2-3/8" hole saw to fit the OD of 2" pipe.

[FredrikAnderson]

What material are you using for your grid? Where are you getting it and how much does it cost?

[koiguy1969]

oh! I guess i should have mentioned that..I used the hardware fencing i used for my floating planter rings i made to keep my koi from eating the roots off my hiacynths and lettuce and killing them; but usually people use the light diffuser grids for flourecent lights...you find them in the ceiling tile section at Lowes or Homedepot. i got the fencing at Lowes about $8.00 for 3'x15' if i remember right.