I've been reading about methods for keeping a hole in the ice for winter and decided to go with an aerator. I live in Cleveland, OH. Winters get pretty cold here.
My pond is about 1500 gallons and 2 1/2 feet deep. I only have 3 Koi (testing the waters this year).
How large of an aerator do I need? I was looking at a 3.4 watt model that says it is good for a 750 gallon pond. I don't need it for year round aeration. I have a pump that circulates water spring through fall for that. This is just for the winter. Will it work?
Aerator Size
Started by mcgeebc, Nov 04 2009 05:47 PM
10 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 04 November 2009 - 05:47 PM
#2
Posted 04 November 2009 - 06:33 PM
that's more than enough to keep a small hole open if there is possibility of ice. You simply hang the air stone within the top 1/3 to 1/4 region of the pond so that the bottom 2/3's stays calm where the fish will hunker down and sit for the winter.
#3
Posted 04 November 2009 - 06:41 PM
The only trouble with that is the air pump is pumping cold air into the pond.
I would go with something like a floating winter pond De-Icer.
I would go with something like a floating winter pond De-Icer.
#4
Posted 04 November 2009 - 06:47 PM
That's true, but only into the upper region of the pond. The fish will stay down in the warm parts. I put my air stone into a far corner of the pond, too.
A de-icer, of course, is another perfect option. I'm too cheap to buy one since I already have an air pump.
A de-icer, of course, is another perfect option. I'm too cheap to buy one since I already have an air pump.
#5
Posted 04 November 2009 - 06:50 PM
Don't believe that story, Almost all water garden and koi ponds aren't deep enough so have strata levels with different temps.
#6
Posted 04 November 2009 - 09:53 PM
I lied forget my last statement. I was thinking inversion.
#7
Posted 04 November 2009 - 10:00 PM
LOL! You crack me up!
#9
Posted 07 November 2009 - 06:14 AM
Winter stratification occurs because water acheives it maximum density at 39 degrees. Add too much circulation to the pond (particularly those >5 feet) and no stratification will occur.
As a layer of ice forms over the top of a pond, it actually acts as an insulator, which results in additional ice being formed to take longer and longer. If you add a heater to the bottom of the pond and heat it too warm (over 39 degrees), this will result in a turnover and the warm water will once again go to the top.
As a layer of ice forms over the top of a pond, it actually acts as an insulator, which results in additional ice being formed to take longer and longer. If you add a heater to the bottom of the pond and heat it too warm (over 39 degrees), this will result in a turnover and the warm water will once again go to the top.
#10
Posted 11 November 2009 - 07:11 PM
wow, great info nc0gnet0!
If you have fish in your pond, keep that in consideration when deciding your heating or aeration methods.
If you have fish in your pond, keep that in consideration when deciding your heating or aeration methods.
#11
Posted 11 November 2009 - 07:18 PM
in the winter, you actually do want to maintain the stratification levels that exist. Because that lower level of dense water (which you normally don't want in the summer because it is oxygen poor), is nice and warm for the fish (and they require less o2 in winter). That's why in winter, you keep your air stone up high and not on the bottom--so you don't disturb that lower layer of warmer water.

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