Jump to content



- - - - -

A few questions.


14 replies to this topic

#1 Joe_S

  • Members
  • 2 posts
  • Location:Minnesota

Posted 28 January 2010 - 08:16 PM

So I am somewhat of a pond NewB. I know the basics but have a few questions. I plan to build, at largest a 12 long by 6 wide by 3 foot deep pond this summer. It will be used for turtles, but thats another topic. What should the thickness of a liner be for this size of a pond? Also will I be able to find a liner large enough for this? If not how can I seal seperate liners?

Can anyone give me a formula for calculating gallonage ?

The last question is about filtration. Do I stick with the regular bio filters? or has anyone used these before?
Tetra Pond Bio-Active Pressure Filter.

you can find them on the Pet Mountain webpage.
One of these seems similar to a canister filter I use in my aquariums.

Thanks everyone, I hope we can get these answered.


#2 koiguy1969

    koi pond ponderer

  • Members
  • 5793 posts
  • Location:Michigan zone 5b

Posted 28 January 2010 - 10:16 PM

gallonage: L X W X H X 7.48( 7.48 is water volume per cubic foot)= gallonage...these are average measuremaents...walls straight down and flat bottom for 12 x 6 x 3 = 1615 gallons.
45 mil epdm liner is suitable for all ponds (industry standard) and is easily found in the size you want... a 15' x 20' will do
turtles are dirtier than most fish so fitration is more important especially if you will be keeping fish with them
theres definately something fishy about this forum!

#3 DrDave

    Innovator

  • Moderators
  • 6851 posts
  • Location:Escondido, Ca USA

Posted 29 January 2010 - 10:49 PM

Or you can use the total cubic inches divided by 231. There are 231 cu. in. in a gallon.
I find it is a little easier and faster to use than the feet method.
DrDave
“Wisdom is not a product of schooling but of the lifelong attempt to acquire it”. Albert Einstein
http://drdaveskoi.tripod.com
http://plansbyjorde.tripod.com

#4 nycatt

    Banned

  • Banned
  • 5 posts
  • Location:Stony Point, NY

Posted 10 February 2010 - 04:57 PM

Math is a trick subject

#5 Chuck Lewis

  • Members
  • 17 posts
  • Location:Ronan, Montana

Posted 11 February 2010 - 06:06 AM

What are ya gonna do with the turtles?
Chuck

SAEPE EXPERTUS, SEMPER FIDELIS, FRATRES AETERNI
(Often Tested, Always Faithful, Brothers Forever)

#6 jason081180

  • Members
  • 327 posts
  • Location:WIchita Kansas

Posted 18 February 2010 - 11:21 PM

Joe_S said:

So I am somewhat of a pond NewB. I know the basics but have a few questions. I plan to build, at largest a 12 long by 6 wide by 3 foot deep pond this summer. It will be used for turtles, but thats another topic. What should the thickness of a liner be for this size of a pond? Also will I be able to find a liner large enough for this? If not how can I seal seperate liners?

Can anyone give me a formula for calculating gallonage ?

The last question is about filtration. Do I stick with the regular bio filters? or has anyone used these before?
Tetra Pond Bio-Active Pressure Filter.

you can find them on the Pet Mountain webpage.
One of these seems similar to a canister filter I use in my aquariums.

Thanks everyone, I hope we can get these answered.


I am also planning to use the Tetra Pond Bio-Active Pressure Filter on my 1000GL pond I'm building this spring. Well in about a month, I'm getting so excited. the one im planning is the BP1500 w/UV. rated for a max pond size of 1500 GL. Has anyone used this filter before? I’m planning to go from this filter into another that will be a DIY trashcan filter filled with scrubbies. I love the backwash ability of this filter and it is very much like the filters I use on my aquariums. I have a RENA XP3 filter on my 75GL cichlid tank.

#7 mrsclem

    mrsclem

  • Members
  • 333 posts
  • Location:st. mary's county

Posted 19 February 2010 - 01:01 PM

I had the Tetra 2500 model with UV. It did very well until last year when the O rings all failed and the backflush valve went out. I did have to open it and manually clean the filter material about once a month.

#8 koiguy1969

    koi pond ponderer

  • Members
  • 5793 posts
  • Location:Michigan zone 5b

Posted 19 February 2010 - 01:21 PM

why didnt you replace the 'O' rings? most hardware stores carry a good selction.
theres definately something fishy about this forum!

#9 koikeepr

  • Members
  • 2817 posts
  • Location:North Carolina

Posted 19 February 2010 - 01:22 PM

Yep. O-rings don't last forever. You should replace 'em every 2-3 years depending on your weather. And get an O-ring lubricant which you can get at any big box hardware store.

#10 jason081180

  • Members
  • 327 posts
  • Location:WIchita Kansas

Posted 19 February 2010 - 09:46 PM

mrsclem said:

I had the Tetra 2500 model with UV. It did very well until last year when the O rings all failed and the backflush valve went out. I did have to open it and manually clean the filter material about once a month.

The old model had the sponge filters the new one like I want doesn't. It only has beads in it like a bio system but I guess it collects the partials as well. Then when back flushing it stirs all this up and out of the filter. It says you should not need to open this to clean it but once or twice a year. I’m thinking at spring start up and before the leafs start to fall or mid September.

#11 koiguy1969

    koi pond ponderer

  • Members
  • 5793 posts
  • Location:Michigan zone 5b

Posted 19 February 2010 - 10:00 PM

jason081180 said:

The old model had the sponge filters the new one like I want doesn't. It only has beads in it like a bio system but I guess it collects the partials as well. Then when back flushing it stirs all this up and out of the filter. It says you should not need to open this to clean it but once or twice a year. I’m thinking at spring start up and before the leafs start to fall or mid September.

on that statement of once or twice a year....you know they make these ratings with a minimal fish load..if youve got a 1000 gal pond with 10 goldfish o.k.. but if your like most of us you have a far larger than reccommended fish load. that said if you dont clean the filter your not getting rid of the bio- matter your just moving it, to break down, dissolve and release its nutrients and toxins from another place. while at lower fish loads thats of little consequence, larger fish loads require far more backflushes (cleanings). where as the filter may be adequate for keeping fish alive it doesnt make its job any easier to leave the waste in the system, clean it out and the ease of the filters job is increased, and thereby its efficiencey can be greatly increased.
theres definately something fishy about this forum!

#12 jason081180

  • Members
  • 327 posts
  • Location:WIchita Kansas

Posted 19 February 2010 - 10:17 PM

I was talking about opening the filter to clean it maybe a couple times a year. The back flush will be how I empty part of the pond to do water changes maybe every two weeks or so. The way its decribed the waste will be flushed out then and I'll use it for a garden.

#13 koiguy1969

    koi pond ponderer

  • Members
  • 5793 posts
  • Location:Michigan zone 5b

Posted 19 February 2010 - 10:33 PM

my bad !! i just reread your posting, i dont how i missed the backflushing part. sorry i missread...anyways the more often you back flush the better.
theres definately something fishy about this forum!

#14 mrsclem

    mrsclem

  • Members
  • 333 posts
  • Location:st. mary's county

Posted 20 February 2010 - 12:57 PM

koiguy-
had replaced o rings regularly but with spring startup the backflush valve blew apart! Was told by Tetra it was o ring failure from storage and was too expensive to replace. pressurized filters are great but I'm working on a 150 gal. stock tank for this year.

#15 koiguy1969

    koi pond ponderer

  • Members
  • 5793 posts
  • Location:Michigan zone 5b

Posted 20 February 2010 - 01:00 PM

good choice!!
theres definately something fishy about this forum!