Okay first question. We have hard red clay that has been fun to dig in:mad: My problem is one edge of the pond is at a lower grade. I had planned to us the extra dirt to raise the lower end of the pond. I have tried placing boards on the edge and pack the dirt back behind it. Each time I move the board the dirt colapses back in? I have tried dry dirt and today it was damp. Thought that would pack better. I'm only going 10inchs at the lowest. Am I going to have to use thin boards and contour it to the edge and leave it?
Raising the edge of the pond
Started by Plane_pilot, Jul 03 2010 01:25 AM
7 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 03 July 2010 - 01:25 AM
#2
Posted 03 July 2010 - 01:32 AM
I know you will get better answers but here goes. How about leaving a shelf on the lower end and going out about a foot and using landscape blocks to bring it up even with the high side. the shelf will be 10" deep and a perfect place for rocks and a place of refuge for fry. The foot of space gets you off the edge with your block.
#3
Posted 03 July 2010 - 01:55 AM
I like that. It would be the easiest way. To make sure I understand, what you are saying. Place the rock on the current grade to a height to level the edge (about 10"). Then pull the dirt in behind those rock and liner.
#4
Posted 03 July 2010 - 02:10 AM
Plane, I'm just outside of the Charlotte city limits, so we are neighbors.
Pondmaster is heading in the right direction, and you can do a row of blocks and then wrap the liner over the blocks and tuck under. You have to make sure that the dirt under the blocks will not collapse under the weight of the block. It's always great if you can drive a short piece of rebar through the blocks, too, for extra support.
Pondmaster is heading in the right direction, and you can do a row of blocks and then wrap the liner over the blocks and tuck under. You have to make sure that the dirt under the blocks will not collapse under the weight of the block. It's always great if you can drive a short piece of rebar through the blocks, too, for extra support.
#5
Posted 03 July 2010 - 10:33 AM
We had to dig down 2-3 feet on the higher edge and i used that dirt to build a dirt berm, ie a sloping wall of dirt on the lower edge, it is around 3 foot high. I have planted it, made the slope a smooth decrease to try and make it look natural. Our slope when we began would have required a 6-8 foot wall on the lower edge of the pond.
We will have to make sure we have overflow outlets to make sure the dirt does not get washed away at all.
We will have to make sure we have overflow outlets to make sure the dirt does not get washed away at all.
Link to how to do our pond via a live feed, if it is down, it is probably because I am out there working............lol
http://www.gardenpon...0929#entry90929
Here is a link to a page full of free pond calculators: (excel spread sheet calculators)
http://www.garden-po...calculators.htm
A good read on pond water chemistry
http://users.vcnet.c...H2Oquality.html
My pond still a work in progress:
http://www.gardenpon...10-a-t5885.html
The build: pond showcase
http://www.gardenpon...pond-t8233.html
Live every day as if it is your last, enjoy it to the fullest, because one day it will sure will be.
http://www.gardenpon...0929#entry90929
Here is a link to a page full of free pond calculators: (excel spread sheet calculators)
http://www.garden-po...calculators.htm
A good read on pond water chemistry
http://users.vcnet.c...H2Oquality.html
My pond still a work in progress:
http://www.gardenpon...10-a-t5885.html
The build: pond showcase
http://www.gardenpon...pond-t8233.html
Live every day as if it is your last, enjoy it to the fullest, because one day it will sure will be.
#6
Posted 03 July 2010 - 12:16 PM
Yes thats it, The block that Lowes sells is the heavy earthtone type and has a slight contour so its very easy to curve either in or out. But you use whatever.
#7
Posted 05 July 2010 - 03:11 PM
I left NC cause of the red clay......good luck
#8
Posted 05 July 2010 - 03:11 PM
I left NC cause of the red clay......good luck

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