2 Types of DIY Bog filters - 12 inches of pea gravel or 3 foot of large medium small rocks?

[malibu73]

Wow! A jack hammer! That's serious!
Don't forget to throw up some pictures of your progress.
Post up any questions you might have as you start getting it together.
How big is this bog going to be?
Here's some pictures of my bog add-on this Spring:

As you can see, the water in my pond was solid green before starting up the bog. It is now crystal clear.

Thanks for the picture, that is very helpful. I'm planning on doing my plumbing very similar.

 

[brokensword]

something else/modification to think upon;

I did more or less, the aquablox system without the aquablox. From what I garner, the Aquascape parts can be pricey so maybe this will be more palatable. What I used was 4" corrigated drain pipe and cut the slits in that. This pipe is cheap and with 4", affords more area to both slow the water as well as not get clogged so easily. For the 'vault/snorkel', I WAS going to use 12" drain pipe cut to size but the price, again, seemed high so I rummaged around and made my own using plastic buckets with the bottoms cut out. When I revamped my pond, I decided to dual purpose this 'vault' mechanism in the form of using a 30 gallon trash can with 4" holes (4 of them) cut out of the sides neare the bottom. Putting this then at the lowest point of my bog means anything accumulating will be accessible for pumping out. When not in use, it now doubles as a place to grow a pot of water iris. So, in bog v1, I had the pond tube hooking up to 4" manifolds (the drain pipe) and that to the homemade snorkel. In bog v2, I ran two 4" lines at the bottom of my bog and because I wanted the iris to be in a specific spot, did not connect manifold to my new trash can vault. It won't matter because IF I ever have to flush the manifolds or bog proper, everything will end up at the bottom of my new iris/trashcan snorkel. I like the trashcan idea because it is much easier (wider) to get a pump in and out of.

And like the Aquascape system, I used large boulders (6-8") along side and one layer over top my manifolds, then followed it with about 12-18" of 2" river rock, and lastly by 12" of peagravel (3/8").

I'm only posting this so you can see you don't need to spend big $$ to get a more/larger system. I went from a 4'x4'x40" bog to a 23'x3'x3' version because I nearly tripled my pond volume.

Just adding more fuel to your fire...

 

[MitchW]

something else/modification to think upon;

I did more or less, the aquablox system without the aquablox. From what I garner, the Aquascape parts can be pricey so maybe this will be more palatable. What I used was 4" corrigated drain pipe and cut the slits in that. This pipe is cheap and with 4", affords more area to both slow the water as well as not get clogged so easily. For the 'vault/snorkel', I WAS going to use 12" drain pipe cut to size but the price, again, seemed high so I rummaged around and made my own using plastic buckets with the bottoms cut out. When I revamped my pond, I decided to dual purpose this 'vault' mechanism in the form of using a 30 gallon trash can with 4" holes (4 of them) cut out of the sides neare the bottom. Putting this then at the lowest point of my bog means anything accumulating will be accessible for pumping out. When not in use, it now doubles as a place to grow a pot of water iris. So, in bog v1, I had the pond tube hooking up to 4" manifolds (the drain pipe) and that to the homemade snorkel. In bog v2, I ran two 4" lines at the bottom of my bog and because I wanted the iris to be in a specific spot, did not connect manifold to my new trash can vault. It won't matter because IF I ever have to flush the manifolds or bog proper, everything will end up at the bottom of my new iris/trashcan snorkel. I like the trashcan idea because it is much easier (wider) to get a pump in and out of.

And like the Aquascape system, I used large boulders (6-8") along side and one layer over top my manifolds, then followed it with about 12-18" of 2" river rock, and lastly by 12" of peagravel (3/8").

I'm only posting this so you can see you don't need to spend big $$ to get a more/larger system. I went from a 4'x4'x40" bog to a 23'x3'x3' version because I nearly tripled my pond volume.

Just adding more fuel to your fire...

Thanks for this info @brokensword Would love to see what you have done. I was going to use a pool sand filter for a vault. I also found some 8" corrugated drain pipe that I can use. @brokensword can the 4"pipe handle such a load of stone without it being crushed? That is my concern about the drain pipe.

 

[brokensword]

No problem with the weight as I put large stones around the tube and then over top so the load above is actually resting more on the 6-8" stone. When I dug up bog v1, the drain pipe was just fine.

Here's some pics showing bog v2 construction; I have two pumps sending water to 2 prefilter barrels, which then dump into the bog. The water rises up through and flows over my weeping wall and back into the pond.

 

[MitchW]

Thanks for the photos @brokensword, helps a lot seeing what you have done. Also, great work!
Looks like, you don't have to worry about snow, as it looks like the entire pond is covered.

 

[addy1]

Very nice!

 

[brokensword]

Thanks for the photos @brokensword, helps a lot seeing what you have done. Also, great work!
Looks like, you don't have to worry about snow, as it looks like the entire pond is covered.

Thanks.

And actually, I do have to worry re snow. I've screened in the entire pond (for a 'pondhouse') and the roof is rolled up in the fall. The snow load would be too heavy and it would collapse (it actually did last November when a freak snow storm hit us the first week of the month, dropping 11" and ruining the roof screen).

I originally was just screening in the pond to keep the mosquitos out but it works great for raccoons, herons, owls, minks, otters, and even snakes! Course, if I ever get a bear or moose, all bets are off!

 

[MitchW]

And actually, I do have to worry re snow. I've screened in the entire pond (for a 'pondhouse') and the roof is rolled up in the fall. The snow load would be too heavy and it would collapse (it actually did last November when a freak snow storm hit us the first week of the month, dropping 11" and ruining the roof screen).

Pondhouse is a very cool idea.

I originally was just screening in the pond to keep the mosquitos out but it works great for raccoons, herons, owls, minks, otters, and even snakes! Course, if I ever get a bear or moose, all bets are off!

I hear that the minks are the worse. Southern Ontario, near Toronto area supposedly has some minks, not that I have seen one yet.

 

[CometKeith]

Pondhouse is a very cool idea.


I hear that the minks are the worse. Southern Ontario, near Toronto area supposedly has some minks, not that I have seen one yet.

Hi Mitch. I know you saw my recent bog build. So before I started my bog project I hired a consultant that builds ponds and “wetlands” all over the country for a living. It cost me a fair amount to have him visit my pond but it was worth it. He just suggested putting a foot of pea gravel over #6 rock and #5 rock with the water flowing into the bog below the rock.
He didn’t really care how deep the bog was going to be but said it wouldn’t hurt to have stone under my pea gravel. I think there are some added benefits by having an extra layer of larger rock under the gravel. I think you could do the same with a 36 inch bog pretty easily. Mine ended up being 28 inches deep. Just wondering are you installing a filter too? I would suggest getting one rated for twice the size of your pond so you don’t have to constantly clean it unless that’s something you want to do!

 

[MitchW]

Just wondering are you installing a filter too?

Thanks again for this information Keith.
No, I am not planning on installing a filter at all. I think, and I could be wrong, if the wetland filter is efficient is enough, it should do the trick. I guess I will find out, when I open next spring.

 

[addy1]

Thanks again for this information Keith.
No, I am not planning on installing a filter at all. I think, and I could be wrong, if the wetland filter is efficient is enough, it should do the trick. I guess I will find out, when I open next spring.

I have no filter, just the bog, no issues with green murky water or string algae. Bet you love it. Mine is just, pipes, pea gravel and plants.

 

[Pondfun]

The more I research building a wetland/bog filters the more confused I get. I'm looking to turn a pool into a pond, it will be about 3000 gallons and the area I have set aside for the bog is approx. 36 inches deep and 20-30% of the area of the pond. I'd like to have the option to take a dip in the pond if possible. Not so much an all out recreation pond, but I'd like the option if I can get away with it. This is why I was following the Aquascape style since it has so much documentation as being used for recreation/swim ponds.

I initially was going to follow this DIY article I found. http://www.bogfiltration.com/making_your_own_upflow_bog_filte.html It is essentially the aquascape method, but without aquablocks and a DIY centipede and snorkel out of Drain pipe. I was going to use 8 inch double wall drain pipe and a 14 inch drain pipe chimney. Then the layers of large medium and then small rocks. I can't seem to find much on this method that doesn't involve the aquablocks (which I can't afford).

The more I read, I then came across this method, that seems to have a lot of support (some on this sub) and the author themselves say it will work with a pond my size. It is cheaper and easier than the previous method. They even mention that the number one mistake people make in bog filters in making them too deep?

https://nelsonwatergardens.com/gravel-bog-filter-construction/ Highlights of this method: 12 inch deep, all pea-gravel, 2 inch pipe in a grid style pattern at the bottom.

Then there is the Aquascape method. That has a pre-fab 12 inch bottom drain and a 14 inch clean out chimney. They call for a layer of aquablock and a layer or large rocks, layer of medium rocks and then a layer of small gravel. These wetland filters are typically three to four feet deep.

Does anyone have any advice on which I should pursue? I can't afford the amount of aquablocks or the prefab equipment I would need to do it their way. I was thinking I could get away with the Drainpipe DIY method without the aquablocks, but now I am second guessing myself. I hate to spend the extra money on the depth and extra couple tons of rock if all I really needed was 12 inches of pea-gravel to achieve the same results.


The more I research building a wetland/bog filters the more confused I get. I'm looking to turn a pool into a pond, it will be about 3000 gallons and the area I have set aside for the bog is approx. 36 inches deep and 20-30% of the area of the pond. I'd like to have the option to take a dip in the pond if possible. Not so much an all out recreation pond, but I'd like the option if I can get away with it. This is why I was following the Aquascape style since it has so much documentation as being used for recreation/swim ponds.

I initially was going to follow this DIY article I found. http://www.bogfiltration.com/making_your_own_upflow_bog_filte.html It is essentially the aquascape method, but without aquablocks and a DIY centipede and snorkel out of Drain pipe. I was going to use 8 inch double wall drain pipe and a 14 inch drain pipe chimney. Then the layers of large medium and then small rocks. I can't seem to find much on this method that doesn't involve the aquablocks (which I can't afford).

The more I read, I then came across this method, that seems to have a lot of support (some on this sub) and the author themselves say it will work with a pond my size. It is cheaper and easier than the previous method. They even mention that the number one mistake people make in bog filters in making them too deep?

https://nelsonwatergardens.com/gravel-bog-filter-construction/ Highlights of this method: 12 inch deep, all pea-gravel, 2 inch pipe in a grid style pattern at the bottom.

Then there is the Aquascape method. That has a pre-fab 12 inch bottom drain and a 14 inch clean out chimney. They call for a layer of aquablock and a layer or large rocks, layer of medium rocks and then a layer of small gravel. These wetland filters are typically three to four feet deep.

Does anyone have any advice on which I should pursue? I can't afford the amount of aquablocks or the prefab equipment I would need to do it their way. I was thinking I could get away with the Drainpipe DIY method without the aquablocks, but now I am second guessing myself. I hate to spend the extra money on the depth and extra couple tons of rock if all I really needed was 12 inches of pea-gravel to achieve the same results.

Hi I was having the same problem but I used milk Crates which I reinforced also the company that make them are tested for 2500 lbs of weight each. Remember when you have stone on top the weight is distributed evenly across the entire area of the wetland. I used a 6 inch ABS corrugated which is 10 feet long under the crates. I used heavy duty rubber maid trash cans. These are double one inside the other for strength and they can last for years and years under any conditions. Here is the link to the site for the crates. https://www.milkcratesdirect.com/blog/how-strong-are-farm-plast-milk-crates/

 

[GBBUDD]

you ll find the major points to building and panning a bog and pond here => https://www.gardenpondforum.com/threads/going-for-it-phase-one-12-000-gallon-pond.22563/page-47

 

[Rosegardener]

The more I research building a wetland/bog filters the more confused I get. I'm looking to turn a pool into a pond, it will be about 3000 gallons and the area I have set aside for the bog is approx. 36 inches deep and 20-30% of the area of the pond. I'd like to have the option to take a dip in the pond if possible. Not so much an all out recreation pond, but I'd like the option if I can get away with it. This is why I was following the Aquascape style since it has so much documentation as being used for recreation/swim ponds.

I initially was going to follow this DIY article I found. http://www.bogfiltration.com/making_your_own_upflow_bog_filte.html It is essentially the aquascape method, but without aquablocks and a DIY centipede and snorkel out of Drain pipe. I was going to use 8 inch double wall drain pipe and a 14 inch drain pipe chimney. Then the layers of large medium and then small rocks. I can't seem to find much on this method that doesn't involve the aquablocks (which I can't afford).

The more I read, I then came across this method, that seems to have a lot of support (some on this sub) and the author themselves say it will work with a pond my size. It is cheaper and easier than the previous method. They even mention that the number one mistake people make in bog filters in making them too deep?

https://nelsonwatergardens.com/gravel-bog-filter-construction/ Highlights of this method: 12 inch deep, all pea-gravel, 2 inch pipe in a grid style pattern at the bottom.

Then there is the Aquascape method. That has a pre-fab 12 inch bottom drain and a 14 inch clean out chimney. They call for a layer of aquablock and a layer or large rocks, layer of medium rocks and then a layer of small gravel. These wetland filters are typically three to four feet deep.

Does anyone have any advice on which I should pursue? I can't afford the amount of aquablocks or the prefab equipment I would need to do it their way. I was thinking I could get away with the Drainpipe DIY method without the aquablocks, but now I am second guessing myself. I hate to spend the extra money on the depth and extra couple tons of rock if all I really needed was 12 inches of pea-gravel to achieve the same results.


The more I research building a wetland/bog filters the more confused I get. I'm looking to turn a pool into a pond, it will be about 3000 gallons and the area I have set aside for the bog is approx. 36 inches deep and 20-30% of the area of the pond. I'd like to have the option to take a dip in the pond if possible. Not so much an all out recreation pond, but I'd like the option if I can get away with it. This is why I was following the Aquascape style since it has so much documentation as being used for recreation/swim ponds.

I initially was going to follow this DIY article I found. http://www.bogfiltration.com/making_your_own_upflow_bog_filte.html It is essentially the aquascape method, but without aquablocks and a DIY centipede and snorkel out of Drain pipe. I was going to use 8 inch double wall drain pipe and a 14 inch drain pipe chimney. Then the layers of large medium and then small rocks. I can't seem to find much on this method that doesn't involve the aquablocks (which I can't afford).

The more I read, I then came across this method, that seems to have a lot of support (some on this sub) and the author themselves say it will work with a pond my size. It is cheaper and easier than the previous method. They even mention that the number one mistake people make in bog filters in making them too deep?

https://nelsonwatergardens.com/gravel-bog-filter-construction/ Highlights of this method: 12 inch deep, all pea-gravel, 2 inch pipe in a grid style pattern at the bottom.

Then there is the Aquascape method. That has a pre-fab 12 inch bottom drain and a 14 inch clean out chimney. They call for a layer of aquablock and a layer or large rocks, layer of medium rocks and then a layer of small gravel. These wetland filters are typically three to four feet deep.

Does anyone have any advice on which I should pursue? I can't afford the amount of aquablocks or the prefab equipment I would need to do it their way. I was thinking I could get away with the Drainpipe DIY method without the aquablocks, but now I am second guessing myself. I hate to spend the extra money on the depth and extra couple tons of rock if all I really needed was 12 inches of pea-gravel to achieve the same results.

Hi, I have also been researching active bog filter building. The instructions given by Nelson Water Gardens are well supported. If you read their instructions carefully or watch their video they do mention a false bottom if your depth is too deep by using grating. So what I intend to do is use the DIY method by Ozponds in the bottom but use a 4" perforated drain pipe and a cleanout just big enough to drop in my cleanout pump. The bottom will have a narrow trench to house the 4" pipe sloped toward the cleanout. I'll be tucking in that 4" drain pipe with large stones just enough to cover the pipe then cover with plastic eaves trough mesh to keep the pea gravel from falling down. The 4" pipe wil be connected to the flow from the pond along with the other manifold pipes. After that I will follow the instructions from Nelson. Wish me luck. It should work and make cleanouts easy.

 

[GBBUDD]

The bog is not you must do this inorder to succeed. THE PRINCIPLESare what matter. If you go and push 10,000 gph through a 8x10 bog only a foot deep it's going to look like a fluid bed and the ground will be percolating. Not what you want. If your clean out tube are pitched away from the snorkel it will defeat the purpose.

Not sure where you found 3 feet of large stone while it will certainly give surface area for the bacteria to grow it will do minimal to filter the water