30 years on pond

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Hi there. I’m new to the forum and here’s why I joined.
About 35 years ago we purchased a historic home on the eastern shore of Maryland. My wife is a fantastic gardener so immediately got to work building what are now mature garden rooms.
She wanted a pond for goldfish and water plants so I dug a 12x6 pond with sloped sides. 2/3 of the pond is 4’ deep and 1/3 is about 1’ deep. That makes a nice shelf for potted water plants and the deep section was good enough to winter over fish for many years. I used a 30mil liner and put slate around the edge covering the liner.
Amazingly, it has held up well for these decades. There are a few small holes above the water line but all in all, not bad. Also, I framed the top perimeter with 4x4’s.

We have decided to rebuild and will pour a concrete bottom, block walls, expand the size slightly and make a more permanent fountain than we have currently. The sides will come up above grade 18”, veneered with brick, capped with bluestone with a bluestone patio on one side.

Unlike the first project, I have a contractor doing the concrete, block and stone work. I will take care of the block and concrete treatment. I have a few months to research before his schedule is clear to start so I will read and gather from the past posts and likely start a thread with some pics as we get started.

Looks like a ton of expertise is here on tap.

Jack
 

JRS

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Welcome to the forum Jack. Look forward to seeing the project.
 
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If im reading this corectly youd like a raised pond edged with stone and blue stone cap. And now your wondering what the best waterproofing would be. Imo since you guys sound serios about your garden . I woukd lean toward either a box liner. These are made specificly to fit your pond.
Now the down side to these is as far as i understand is the shape is cheaper if its rectangular.
But if i was going to build the best i could without spending a fortune. Id plan on a bottom drain or two depending on the size and the bottom of the pond is shaped like an upside down funnel. This waÿ any waste gets pushed toward the intakes.
A good skimmer is a must wether its a simple surface drain to say a seitta sieve. Or rdf. And or a spounge filter.
Now if sure its gold fish only this certainly wont hurt . But gold fish expecialy if your not over stocking can do with far less.
A great resource is oz ponds he is all about gold fish. Koi are banned in his area.

Lastly a fiberglass coating would be long lasting and look equaly as nice. An edpm liner will absolutely do the job as well but the folds are unsighly.
 
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Thank you. From what I’ve seen, one valid choice for sealer is Xypex. I’m going to be treating the pond in December so imagine I will need to build a tent/tarp structure for heating.
 
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Moisture can be another enemy. Id get a good moisture meter. Some like a moist block some need dry as a bone
 
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If im reading this corectly youd like a raised pond edged with stone and blue stone cap. And now your wondering what the best waterproofing would be. Imo since you guys sound serios about your garden . I woukd lean toward either a box liner. These are made specificly to fit your pond.
Now the down side to these is as far as i understand is the shape is cheaper if its rectangular.
But if i was going to build the best i could without spending a fortune. Id plan on a bottom drain or two depending on the size and the bottom of the pond is shaped like an upside down funnel. This waÿ any waste gets pushed toward the intakes.
A good skimmer is a must wether its a simple surface drain to say a seitta sieve. Or rdf. And or a spounge filter.
Now if sure its gold fish only this certainly wont hurt . But gold fish expecialy if your not over stocking can do with far less.
A great resource is oz ponds he is all about gold fish. Koi are banned in his area.

Lastly a fiberglass coating would be long lasting and look equaly as nice. An edpm liner will absolutely do the job as well but the folds are unsighly.
You have interpreted my project well. For some reason your response didn’t come up until after I posted about Xypex.
I am with you on the liner. Mine lasted but the folds bothered me…I imagine there are down sides for many methods, but looking at those folds for a few decades make me want something else…Xypex seems like a valid path. Any opinions on this and my application are greatly appreciated!
 
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Im a retired builder. Block walls crack plain and simple. If not from settling than from expansion and contraction. Particuraly in the corners a lot of rebar is needed imo to keep the walls that are 90 degrees to each other solid and not develope even hair line cracks.
I would look into a box liner they are tough. They will come out to you and do the measuring and there are no folds to look at . There are welds that you can barely see.

Imo your product i have never used its a parge skim coat thats applied over the block . Will it do the job sure is there a good chance in 10 years maintenace patches will be needed theres a good chance . In 20 years id bet youll need to chip out loose pealing skim coat and do it again . Again never used that specific product and some modified mortars are crazy good . For my money id do a box line.
 

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and welcome @JHinMD
 

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