Anyone use Nualgi in their pond?

[Loree]

I just have so many questions!! lol Before I started leaking, I of course went thru the green water syndrome, which I knew was inevitable. So now I'm starting over with the new liner. I have the plants (water lettuce, water hyacinth and hornwort) which I didn't have in the beginning of the first time. I've seen this Nualgi which claims to get rid of green water and was wondering if anyone had any experience with it.
Second question is in draining what was left of the pond (with the old liner) I noticed so MUCH MUCK at the bottom. Is so much muck normal for only a 2 month period??? Is there something I can put in the pond this time around to prevent it? Am I doing something wrong? I don't have a filter. I am trying to duplicate the conditions I had in the rowboat only on a much bigger scale. I do have an aerator and fountain. And will be getting some Microb-lift (I think that's what it's called) to add when I put the new liner & water in.

I'm just wondering about the Nuali and if there's anything I can do to prevent the muck. It's disgusting. lol

 

[Mmathis]

I can't say anything about Nualgi, but here is a link to the Amazon.com page that has customer reviews. https://www.amazon.com/Nualgi-Ponds-Health-Controls-Algae/dp/B00M8Q19N6#customerReviews

Personally, I don't like to add anything to the pond and prefer to let nature do the work. Just don't believe in quick-fixes or miracle cures. But that's just my opinion. When I read reviews or product write-ups, always in the back of my mind is the question, "what are my expectations for this 'whatever it is' product?"

As far as muck goes -- the only ways I know of to get rid of it are: a bottom drain system or vacuuming/netting it out. If you leave it alone, it's going to host all kinds of bacteria, bugs, and other critters that contribute to the health of the pond environment. Again, some people swear by various "products." All you can do is try it yourself and see if it works.

 

[Meyer Jordan]

Nualgi works a little different than most algicides. It utilizes diatoms (which are also an algae) to outcompete the algae that forms "pea soup" for nutrients. Then end result, however, is still the same. The original nutrients that cause the "pea soup" remain in the pond. So if you do not want green water to return you must keep adding Nualgi. Turning your pond into a Money Pit.
You have a good start at combating this problem with your current choice of aquatic plants. I would recommend that you add Anacharis.
Muck is a naturally occurring item in any pond. It is the accumulation of organic and inorganic material that has been introduced to the pond. In the absence of a bottom drain. manual removal is the most effective means of permanent removal. Any 'Muck Buster' product is only going to reintroduce the trapped nutrients back into the water column to foster nuisance algae growth. As Mmathis suggested, a vacuum will serve your needs.

 

[sissy]

It is just time and only time that will change things .I know after starting over and it took a full year to really get to clean looking natural water .When winter is over you start again .I over winter a lot of my water hyacinth in my basement

 

[Loree]

Ya, I knew I was going to get muck, cuz I did get some in the boat. But this just seems like so much more. I guess it's the size difference in addition to a few more fish.
I'm just not a very patient person and it took what seemed like forever for the green water to clear. And the thought of having to go thru that again is giving me great anxiety when a pond is to be relaxing...
Thank you all for all your advice and suggestions!

 

[HARO]

The garden center where I work part-time carries Nualgi (for the second year now). Since I like to know what I'm selling to my customers, I started using it from the time I got it in, up to freeze-up, and started again once the ice was gone in the spring. To be perfectly honest, I see no difference whatsoever! My pond still goes through periods of cloudy-looking water, then clears up overnight for reasons I really can't explain. As for turning the pond into a "Money Pit", as @Meyer Jordan suggested, a 4.2 oz. bottle retails here for $50. The dosage is so low that this bottle will do my 1,500 gallon pond for three years! Most of the other pond "cures" on the market run between $18 and $30 a bottle, and you would need SEVERAL bottles for the same size pond EACH YEAR! I'm not telling you to use it, but I WOULD like to get some feedback from others who have tried it. And it's probably a lot less likely to harm your pond than a lot of the crap sold for similar purposes.
John

 

[peter hillman]

Ya, I knew I was going to get muck, cuz I did get some in the boat. But this just seems like so much more. I guess it's the size difference in addition to a few more fish.
I'm just not a very patient person and it took what seemed like forever for the green water to clear. And the thought of having to go thru that again is giving me great anxiety when a pond is to be relaxing...
Thank you all for all your advice and suggestions!

Just think of what you've learned so far. The relaxing part is working on the pond!

 

[Meyer Jordan]

And it's probably a lot less likely to harm your pond than a lot of the crap sold for similar purposes.

This is true if not having a negative impact is to be considered a recommendation for a product. Sounds very much like the current U.S. Presidential election. And, NO, I am not trying to go off on tangent just remarking on the similarity.

 

[Mucky_Waters]

This is true if not having a negative impact is to be considered a recommendation for a product. Sounds very much like the current U.S. Presidential election. And, NO, I am not trying to go off on tangent just remarking on the similarity.

I think you are right, and in both case a bottom drain system would be the ultimate solution, where you could flush out all the dirt and crap where it tends to accumulate and more effectively remove it from the system so it can no longer cause it's negative effects.
Of course much like building a pond, the majority of people are unwilling to take those extra measures to ensure a clean, healthy and sustainable system.

 

[sissy]

Bottom drains need to be done right and not sure about the harm they do to baby fish and snails and I did not feel comfortable doing one .Cutting a hole in the bottom of my liner was not for me .I would worry to much about it leaking .

 

[Mmathis]

Before we get too much off-track with the original question......@loree doesn't have a filter and it sounds like she's trying to keep her pond set-up simple.

Anyway, I totally agree that a BD is the best solution to keeping the pond water clean, you have to remember that when we say, "bottom drain," there's much more involved than just having the drain. Since it's a gravity drain, you have to have [and have room for] the pit -- then there's all the added equipment that goes in-line to protect the pump from debris and assure good mechanical and bio-filtration. Simply speaking, it's not that simple.

 

[Loree]

Yes my goal is simplicity. Water, fish, plants. My experience with making a pond out of that rowboat was so successful with no filter or bells and whistles. I want to have the same success in this pond I just dug. But for some reason it's a bit different. I know this can be done without all the extras and chemicals. Just need to figure it out.

 

[Meyer Jordan]

Yes my goal is simplicity. Water, fish, plants. My experience with making a pond out of that rowboat was so successful with no filter or bells and whistles. I want to have the same success in this pond I just dug. But for some reason it's a bit different. I know this can be done without all the extras and chemicals. Just need to figure it out.

It can be done, but definite levels and ratios must be established and maintained.
Remind us--How large is this pond..surface area and capacity. Number, sizes and types of fish, number of plants? Are you circulating the water?

 

[Loree]

OK this is what I've got (when it's all put together, as because of my leak, my fish are in the kiddie pool right now). The pond is approx. 9ft wide by approx 10ft long. On one end it gradually goes down to a depth of approx. 4ft. The rest of the sides are pretty much straight down with the exception of a couple shelves that I have plants on. It holds approximately 800 gallons of water according to all the pond calculations I have done.
Plants: Honestly don't know the names of the potted ones, but I have 4 of those. I have water lettuce, hyacinths, and hornwort. I got started too late in the season to get lillies, but that's on next years list.
Fish: They're all goldfish--5 that are about 6 inches long, 1 of their offspring that is about 3 inches now, and there's 5 smaller ones about 2 inches. That's it. There was a frog, but he must have left because I haven't seen him since the bulk of the water leaked out.
I DO have a fountain and an aerator going to circulate the water. (however I had none of these in my rowboat pond and had clear water). In addition, I put a barley bale in there too.

Oh, and I added bacteria, and a few green scrubbies. (at my son's suggestion). I have no substrate, but large rocks to create caves & bridges for the fish to hide.

That's pretty much it. Nothing fancy, and I want to keep it that way. Like I said, I know it can be done. I estimated my rowboat held about 200-250 gallons and eventually was clear as a bell. Maybe I just need to be a little more patient. More water = more time???

 

[Meyer Jordan]

If you limit the number of fish in your pond to the present level of eleven (11) fish you can maintain a properly functioning system. You have enough submerged surface area to support this present population at what will be their adult size.
You should try to sustain some water movement.
No need to add bacteria, your pond already most assuredly has all that it needs and of the correct species.
Not sure why you added the 'scrubbies' or where you placed them but they re unnecessary.
Be aware that Goldfish love to multiply and even though you may think that the babies are cute they will quickly cause an imbalance in the nitrification process causing Ammonia spikes, water quality issues and eventually health issues for the fish. It is imperative that, if you do not want to invest in supplemental biofiltration, the maximum fish population of eleven (11) be strictly maintained.