Big Problem

[crazyforponds]

Hi all. I have a big problem. I have a 22 ft x 11 ft x 3 ft deep pond that has done wonderful through its first summer. We have a net over the pond and I just recently took all the annual plants out of the pond. I was in the pond last week and dropped down my lillies. We have about 40 fish in the pond. Yesterday I checked the skimmer and noticed the pump was almost exposed. I was concerned but not to much as I think we had a small leak in the pond and had to top it up once a week during the summer. However today my husband went out and noticied that the level of the pond was below the skimmer. He filled up the pond but now I'm really worried that we have a large leak somewhere. We were planning to shut off the main pump to the falls and run a small frog spitter to keep the water from freezing. However now I really concerned about the fish if the level of the water keeps dropping and also I'm thinking we will have to take the pump out of the skimmer and keep it summerged in water in the garage. The problem is the temp has dropped to the 30's (with the recent cold front) and I'm not sure I can find the leak in the pond with the weather being so cold. Any suggestions? Can we put a large pool in the garage to winter the fish. What about sunlight? If we do can we provide artifical light for the fish? I'm just sick!

 

[morewater]

The first rule of leak detection is to let it leak.

Turn off all pumps, mark the water level. Wait 24hrs. Check the pond level.

The pond will only leak to the level at which there is a leak, and not below that level.

I'm assuming, of course, that you've used a proper EPDM liner. The simple action of dropping a pot is not enough to puncture a liner. Look for evidence of a "hippo" (a bubble in the liner that is soft to the touch), this will indicate that there is water behind the liner.

Removing the pump from the skimmer shouldn't present a huge problem, submergence indoors will keep the seals from drying out.

As to putting a spitter to keep the water from freezing? Not very effective. Toss in an aerator.

You haven't indicated to what level the pond leaks. If you lose 6 inches, and you've still got 2.5ft of water, that should be enough to overwinter the fish if using an aerator or breather.

Perform the above, then report back. May the Force by with you.

 

[crazyforponds]

Thanks. i will do that. Not sure how much the water will drop. Yes I am using a EPDM liner and I have the whole pond rocked in. I'm praying that the water level doesn't drop to far. What kind of aerator should I get?

 

[Big Lou]

Good luck. Hope all turns out okay.

 

[Mmathis]

I don't think this would drop your water as much as yours is, but have you had a lot of wind in the past few days? It's been extremely windy here, and I've noticed a slight drop, probaly from evaporation and/or splashing due to the wind.

 

[morewater]

Not knowing how much the water will drop is part of the process.

Once the pumps are disabled, there's no way for the water to escape from the pond save for a puncture. It may very well turn out that you have a piping or hose leak.

By disabling the pumps, you've eliminated that avenue of water loss.

Once the pond reaches an ultimate loss stop, carefully check the perimeter of the pond where the water level has stabilized. If you can't find a puncture/hole, then fill it again to it's ultimate level. Mark the level. Check it again in 24hrs. If the water level hasn't changed, then your liner integrity is good and you'll have narrowed down the leak possibilities to that of the plumbing.

Most times pond leaks are from the features (ie. streams, waterfalls).

As to winter prep, I'm assuming from your post that you haven't overwintered a pond as yet. It's not a big deal. I've used an AquaScape 2-stone aerator for years with no problems. You can get them almost anywhere. Purchase an Rubbermaid tub with lid, big enough for the aerator motor to fit in. Put a brick in the bottom of the tub and put the aerator motor on top of the brick (if water somehow manages to get into the lidded box, at least the aerator motor isn't sitting in a puddle of water). Cut a hole in the side of the box (three cuts, leave a flap) for the electrical cord to get out. Do the same on the other side for the aerator lines to come out from (again, cutting to leave a flap). Stick the lid on, put a stone on top so it won't blow away. Keep the aerator box a foot or so off the ground so that the air is pumped down to the pond. The aerator lines that come with the kit are just regular air line. I prefer weighted airline, it's more expensive but what the hell. Live large. Put the airstones into the deepest part of the pond (I mean toss them in, they'll sink). Make sure that you use the provided flow restrictors on the airlines in the event that you have a power failure, that way water won't creep up the lines. Run the aerator 24/7 during the winter. Make sure it's connected to a GFCI. Check it periodically through the winter, if it's a-hummin, it's a-runnin'.

Prior to freeze-up, if you have a waterfall filter, be sure to empty it of water. Stuff your skimmer box with bubble-wrap to displace the water (addy's idea, not mine.....and it's a good one).

This is the first year that I'm going to use a pond breather. They're cheap enough, can't hurt. I'll use it in conjunction with my aerator.

 

[crazyforponds]

I don't think this would drop your water as much as yours is, but have you had a lot of wind in the past few days? It's been extremely windy here, and I've noticed a slight drop, probaly from evaporation and/or splashing due to the wind.

Yes we have had a lot of wind too. We will see tomorrow how far it drops.

 

[crazyforponds]

Good luck. Hope all turns out okay.

Thanks

 

[crazyforponds]

Not knowing how much the water will drop is part of the process.

Once the pumps are disabled, there's no way for the water to escape from the pond save for a puncture. It may very well turn out that you have a piping or hose leak.

By disabling the pumps, you've eliminated that avenue of water loss.

Once the pond reaches an ultimate loss stop, carefully check the perimeter of the pond where the water level has stabilized. If you can't find a puncture/hole, then fill it again to it's ultimate level. Mark the level. Check it again in 24hrs. If the water level hasn't changed, then your liner integrity is good and you'll have narrowed down the leak possibilities to that of the plumbing.

Most times pond leaks are from the features (ie. streams, waterfalls).

As to winter prep, I'm assuming from your post that you haven't overwintered a pond as yet. It's not a big deal. I've used an AquaScape 2-stone aerator for years with no problems. You can get them almost anywhere. Purchase an Rubbermaid tub with lid, big enough for the aerator motor to fit in. Put a brick in the bottom of the tub and put the aerator motor on top of the brick (if water somehow manages to get into the lidded box, at least the aerator motor isn't sitting in a puddle of water). Cut a hole in the side of the box (three cuts, leave a flap) for the electrical cord to get out. Do the same on the other side for the aerator lines to come out from (again, cutting to leave a flap). Stick the lid on, put a stone on top so it won't blow away. Keep the aerator box a foot or so off the ground so that the air is pumped down to the pond. The aerator lines that come with the kit are just regular air line. I prefer weighted airline, it's more expensive but what the hell. Live large. Put the airstones into the deepest part of the pond (I mean toss them in, they'll sink). Make sure that you use the provided flow restrictors on the airlines in the event that you have a power failure, that way water won't creep up the lines. Run the aerator 24/7 during the winter. Make sure it's connected to a GFCI. Check it periodically through the winter, if it's a-hummin, it's a-runnin'.

Prior to freeze-up, if you have a waterfall filter, be sure to empty it of water. Stuff your skimmer box with bubble-wrap to displace the water (addy's idea, not mine.....and it's a good one).

This is the first year that I'm going to use a pond breather. They're cheap enough, can't hurt. I'll use it in conjunction with my aerator.

Never thought about the plumbing. Thanks. But if I had a plumbing leak would the waterfalls still work? I have a biofalls box with 2 layers of filters. The biofalls box is built into a burm. So I should take out the bioballs and the filters? We turned off the pump tonight. So we'll see if the waterlevel drops. Thanks

 

[brokensword]

I'd suggest NOT putting the air stone at the bottom of the deep end, but near the top, 12" down. This will help keep the warmer water down at the bottom where the fish are and not cause your water to mix (top is colder, where ice forms; bottom stays warmer once the temp of the water has reached 39 degrees F). There's enough research/experience out on the net to back up this idea.

Michael

 

[morewater]

I'd suggested placing the stones in the bottom of the deep end due to the water loss as first reported by the poster. It's evident from the original post that the water loss is the greatest concern, the placement of the airs stones being secondary, should the pond continue to leak. In the event of continued leakage, the placement of the stones on the bottom, rather than suspended, would be the most beneficial given the situation.

 

[DOUBBLE TAP]

I am actually having the exact same problem. I came home and my water level was less than half full 3 1/2 foot deep pond. I freaked!!! Then after I gained my composure I started looking for a leak in the stream and water fall and nothing. I refilled the pond and shut down the stream and water fall and crossed my fingers. I patched the liner toward the bottom when I first set up the pond 2 years ago and my biggest fear is that it came undone. lucky me after 24 hrs the pond is still holding water like a champ so its gotta be in the stream or waterfall. Being that the next day I can work on it is sun and we are expecting 40 deg and flurries I don't think that I want to be paying in the pond in that cold of weather. Im just going to add an aerator and deal with it in the spring time. So I guess the moral of my longwinded story is don't freak out. 90% of leaks are in the plumbing/features. If the pond holds water with everything off you in a VERRRRY good spot comparatively. The aerator will buy you time till the spring when you can get back out there and fix it.

Good luck

 

[morewater]

Thanks. i will do that. Not sure how much the water will drop. Yes I am using a EPDM liner and I have the whole pond rocked in. I'm praying that the water level doesn't drop to far. What kind of aerator should I get?

So, what was the result?

 

[crazyforponds]

So, what was the result?

Turned off the pump to the waterfall and we do not have a leak. Its crazy. We have not had a problem all summer , then two days in a row the water level drops below the skimmer. Then we turned off the main pump and the water level has not dropped at all. Could be a leak in the waterfall?? Anyway I guess we are good until spring. Bought an aerator and waiting for it to arrive.

 

[crazyforponds]

I'd suggest NOT putting the air stone at the bottom of the deep end, but near the top, 12" down. This will help keep the warmer water down at the bottom where the fish are and not cause your water to mix (top is colder, where ice forms; bottom stays warmer once the temp of the water has reached 39 degrees F). There's enough research/experience out on the net to back up this idea.

Michael

Yes I read a lot about that. That's why I decided to just try and keep an area on the surface from freezing with my spitting water frog. I will put the aerator near the shallow end. That makes sense. Thanks.