Brown Pond Vent

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Ugh. I know the biggest thing I need as a ponder is patience, but this pond is making me crazy!

The quick recap is I bought a house where a large 3500 gallon pond turned into a complete swamp for 7 years. I had it cleaned out by a landscaper (drained and power washed several times). New pump, refilled it, and for 2 weeks it was sparkling clean and beautiful. That was May.

Added a few tiny fish in mid May. But since then, it has been a non-stop fight to get the water clear. It went so murky and brown for 2 months that I couldn't even see the tiny new fish I'd put in.

I didn't have a filter, but I added some helpful bacteria my pond store gave me. I also eventually got some muck defense that gradually helped and after 2-3 weeks I could vaguely see the bottom again. But it was short lived. It has ranged between slightly murkey brown to fairly clear brown. But it's never clear. When it's most brown, the sides and bottom are all covered with a brown, growing algea. It's not just a slimy coating...it's actual little brown plants. At their worst, they completely cover the rocks and fill the water. At best, the rocks are fairly free of that algae and the water is only slightly brownish.

Since then, I've had periods where I added algaecide and it cleared up for a week or two, then it goes all brown and murky again.

I finally bought a nice filter with bio, mechanical and UF filtration. That helped for a few days too. But the problem I think is brown algae. My pond has never turned green. And the UV filter only kills algae which passes through. The brown algae covering all the rocks is not free-floating.

Then the waterfall rocks turned black.

And my plants (hyacinth and cat tails) are not flourishing and are slightly yellowish.

I also have sudsy water, which could either be that I put too much algaecide in when I first got the pond or as the websites all say "too much organic matter". But it creates a soapy, bubbly surface when the waterfalls are running that is very unattractive.

Add to that that everyone I talk to from pond stores to pond neighbors to forms on here gives me different advice: Add this, add that, don't add anything! Just wait. take your fish out, add more plants, plants are doing poorly? Take them out!

I just want to enjoy my pond. And for me, enjoyment = a pond that is clear enough to see my fish, not an ugly color or smell, and plants that grow and flourish as they should.

No snarky or mean comments, please. I'm frustrated enough.

Thanks for letting me vent!
 

Meyer Jordan

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I empathize and sympathize.
You did not indicate that you were looking for more advice, but you are going to get it anyway.
First, let's define what you are dealing with. You inherited a neglected 3500 gallon pond. You cleaned out same pond. Good so far. You pressure washed the pond several times. Once was too much. You seriously damaged the biological structure that was in place that keeps the pond in balance bio-chemically. So now, you are basically dealing with 'New Pond Syndrome'. The pond is having to re-establish a natural bio-chemical balance. This involves periods of murky and/or green water, and occasional excessive algae growth. This natural process has subsequently been disrupted and retarded by the continued addition of algaecides, excessive amounts of which will negatively affect aquatic plant growth. No two (2) ponds are the same, so the balancing process may differ as will the time required to achieve this natural balance, but the same laws of Nature apply to all.
The Nitrogen cycle must be established. The Carbon cycle must be established (balanced supply/demand of organic nutrients).
My suggestion is too cease adding any form of treatment, be it algaecide or beneficial? bacteria. Secure some submerged aquatic plants....Anacharis and/or Myriophyllum are two good choice...for removing excess nutrients from the water column. Algae growth will be inhibited and the 'organic' bubbles will disappear.
Let Mother Nature do her thing. She will do it correctly..

P.S. If you don't have one, purchase a water test kit.
 
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flarey;

listen to what Meyer is saying and it'll be your quickest route to sanity and enjoyment of the pond. He does know his stuff...

Meyer: if she doesn't have any other aquatic plants other than the floaters, wouldn't it help if she also put in some marginals? At least then she could enjoy those while the pond cycles. And I'm thinking, if she had some water lilies, would they survive what she's done to the extent they spread and shade the water somewhat, cutting down on the floating algae? Or is this too overkill and too soon?

Just some ideas to weather the waiting period...


Michael
 
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Flareyfan, decide on what type of pond you want.
One where you manage all the paramaters, or one where you let the pond go through it's natural fluctuations and it looks after itself with minimal intervention from you.
Trying to do both methods on the same pond will only end in frustration.
Pond retailers have a bit of a profit bias, people here do not.
Meyer Jordan is a long time natural approach professional.
You will not go wrong following his advice.
 

Meyer Jordan

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flarey;

listen to what Meyer is saying and it'll be your quickest route to sanity and enjoyment of the pond. He does know his stuff...

Meyer: if she doesn't have any other aquatic plants other than the floaters, wouldn't it help if she also put in some marginals? At least then she could enjoy those while the pond cycles. And I'm thinking, if she had some water lilies, would they survive what she's done to the extent they spread and shade the water somewhat, cutting down on the floating algae? Or is this too overkill and too soon?

Just some ideas to weather the waiting period...


Michael

Yes, Michael, all good advice. My thinking is getting the best results in the shortest period of time...naturally. Submerged 'oxygenators' like Anacharis are known to be highly aggressive in their growth rates which means that they assimilate the nutrients in the water column at a much faster rate than most other aquatic plants. Other aquatic plantings are essential, however, in keeping nutrients at a proper level, but do poorly in reducing any excess.at a timely pace. This is exactly the reason that Nature provides algae blooms.
Any aquatic planting, however, is a positive addition.
 

sissy

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no pond no rocks are supposed to be spotless ,look in nature at streams and ponds there is muck and moss growing .Rocks on your waterfall are not supposed to be spotless clean unless you want a pondless fishless feature that you add lots of pool chemicals to it
 

cas

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Flarey, you have a very nice pond. Don't get discouraged. Patience really is the key. A lot of chemicals are not needed if you don't overstock you pond with fish and you let your pond plants get established. I tried the chemical route and all it did was cause me to add more chemicals (and lose my fish).
 
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Thanks for the thoughts. I also have 2 water lily plants. I didn't mention them because right now they're actually doing well, so that one of the things that I'm not worried about.

If you're recommending underwater plants, how many do you recommend and what do they need? If my pH is 9.0 are they going to die? because it seems like all my other plants are struggling and I don't know if that's the high pH or what.

Also, are you guys saying that in time my water will get clear and stay clear in its own? Or that I just need to accept months of murky water, dying plants, and not being able to see my fish? Because that doesn't sound like a very fun pond experience.

I'm not looking for my pond to be as clear as a swimming pool or anything. But I would like to be able to sit and enjoy it without it looking or smelling ugly. I guess ugly is subjective, but murky brown and black rocks just don't do it for me. Especially since I just went on our local pond tour and saw a couple dozen beautiful ponds that don't have any of the problems mine do.

Sigh...
 

sissy

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Time is the key word when all the good muck was washed away so was everything that ponders consider good in a pond and that also helps it clear on it's own and stay clear
 

cas

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-Regarding the number of underwater plants (anacharis and hornwort) - I bought 1 bunch for every 2 square feet of pond surface until my marginal plants took off. I do not buy as many now.

Yes, you can have clear water without chemicals. But pond situations continually change and you may have an algae bloom (green water) or string algae even when you think you have everything fixed.

Some things that work for me to control Algae naturally:
1. Increase the number of pond plants.
2. Add aeration to the bottom of the pond.
3. Manually removing debris from the bottom of the pond.
4. Mechanical filtration
5. Biological filtration
6. Decrease the number of fish
7. Prevent water run-off from the yard from going into the pond.
8. Shade the pond.
 
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All I can tell you is get more plants!!!!!!!! Get some anacahris or camboda for the bottom. Plant them in those black plastic mesh plant containers. Anchor them down with pebbles, just make sure you rinse them so that you don't add more dirt to cloud it up. Also, get some more bog plants like some Irises and some rush plants. I would also recommend getting some parrots feather for floaters as well. The submerged plants should help a ton. Don't skim on them. The plants will help balance out your ecosystem. Then eventually you shouldn't have use too many chemicals. That is my two cents.....
 
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So can anyone tell me if my water pH 9.0 is detrimental to plants? I don't want to spend a lot of new plants and have them flounder like my hyacinths and reeds are doing. Maybe I need to fix this first? Or maybe the plants are fine in that water??
 

Meyer Jordan

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You say your pond's pH is 9.0. Is this also the pH of the source water?
Honestly a pH of 9.0 is pushing the upper limits for both plants and fish.

As the pond becomes more established, the pH should begin to drop. Biological activity in the pond creates Carbon Dioxide which in water becomes Carbonic acid. As with any acid it will lower the pH.

Again, this will not happen overnight but it is a permanent, stable and safe process.

Most submerged Oxygenating plants will tolerate a pH of up to 10.0 so these should be your first choice.
 
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It sounds like you got off to a rough start, flareyflan.
It will get better.
Patience is the most valuable tool you can have.

Whenever I start up a pond or aquarium, I almost completely leave it alone for the first month.
After that I will only make very small adjustments.
That can be tough to do.
 

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