Costia. Help needed!

[C-Note]

Okay all... I've determined through symptoms, microscope, and articles/research that the underlying issue in my pond is most likely Costia. Sounds like I need to do a Proform C type treatment (I understand that 3 doses, once daily for 3 days, with a 20% water change before each dose is best), which I am equipped to start tomorrow. My biggest concern is... Filters. These are a microscopic parasite, so isn't it likely that they are in my filters and need to be killed throughout my system??? Or if I run Proform C through my filters, I kill my good bacteria and risk an ammonia spike after treatment? Do I disconnect filters, or run treatment right through???

I really need to know which train of thought is correct. I'm already terrified that the treatment can deplete the oxygen in my pond. If I'm also risking an ammonia spike due to "over-cleaning" the filters, I really want to know. I lost one fish this morning, and I seriously don't want to lose more. I am always trying to do the right thing, and fins myself in a predicament of huge uncertainty.

Thank you for any advice.

 

[Dave 54]

Okay all... I've determined through symptoms, microscope, and articles/research that the underlying issue in my pond is most likely Costia. Sounds like I need to do a Proform C type treatment (I understand that 3 doses, once daily for 3 days, with a 20% water change before each dose is best), which I am equipped to start tomorrow. My biggest concern is... Filters. These are a microscopic parasite, so isn't it likely that they are in my filters and need to be killed throughout my system??? Or if I run Proform C through my filters, I kill my good bacteria and risk an ammonia spike after treatment? Do I disconnect filters, or run treatment right through???

I really need to know which train of thought is correct. I'm already terrified that the treatment can deplete the oxygen in my pond. If I'm also risking an ammonia spike due to "over-cleaning" the filters, I really want to know. I lost one fish this morning, and I seriously don't want to lose more. I am always trying to do the right thing, and fins myself in a predicament of huge uncertainty.

Thank you for any advice.

Carrie I understand your concerns however costia has a relatively short life span when not attached to a host fish thus a good off the shelf treatment one off treatment will erradicate the problem.
Another approach would be to use a Malachite and formalin combination at a dose rate that depends on the concentraton of the mix used[ if you have previously salted the pond do not use formalin until the salt is removed by repeated water changes].
Costia is a is a condition that most often than not becomes a problem when your fish are under stress, normally enviromental with such factors as poor water quality temperature or poor system maintenance .
It is therefore vital that good husbandry be practiced on your pond such as regular water changes water testing and filter discharges to clear them through .
Lastly be ready to treat any secondary infections with a propolis[ available from health food stores in both spray and liquid form] in conjunction with a good fungicide or bacteriacide

Dave

 

[bettasngoldfish]

You can always add extra aeration while using the medication.

I was not familiar with the ProForm-C but after looking it up I see it has the malachite green as well as the formalin which is what I would normally use (if needed) as it's a good broad spectrum antiparasitic medication (I was buying it under the name Quick Cure although when looking to purchase some lately I have not been able to find it)

Water changes are always a good thing when medicating. Don't forget to remove any carbon you may have in your filter during treatment. You will most likely have to continue to do frequent water changes after treatment and monitor water quality with your test kit. You *may* see an ammonia spike due to the medication.

 

[DoDad]

Use Terminate, it work well.

 

[C-Note]

Thanks all! I simply hate doing any type of treatments, as I don't like to mess with the balance of the pond ecosystem, but the alternative here would be watching my fish suffer and die. Can't have that!

Secondary question... is there a best time of day to apply the treatment? Like morning when it's cooler, or afternoon when it's warmer? What time would cause the least disruption to pH (if possible)?

 

[bettasngoldfish]

Well I do know the malachite green is sensitive to light and when I have used it in aquariums I keep the lights off. So maybe treat at night? I'm not sure on your other questions.

I'm not sure if you have used this before but it will leave a greenish blue stain so try not to get it on your hands or clothes. Personally I like to do a large water change right before the first treatment and then smaller water changes before every treatment after. Then at the end of treatment do a large water change and add carbon to filter to remove any chemicals left in the water.

Any idea what your ph is?

 

[C-Note]

That's very helpful, @bettasngoldfish ! I did just put large shade sails over the pond to reduce algae growth and help keep the pH more balanced. Currently the pH starts at 7.4 in the morning, and rises up to around 8.2 in the hottest part of the day.

I've not used this treatment before--I'll wear gloves and be quite careful!

 

[bettasngoldfish]

Glad to be able to help

Your ph is good with this treatment then. If you had a low ph then it makes the MG a bit more toxic.

 

[C-Note]

Oh thank goodness, @bettasngoldfish !! That is so good to know. I'll take any peace of mind I can grab.

 

[C-Note]

Question.... For the 3 days of treatments, can I still feed the fish?

 

[Dave 54]

Thats not a problem Carrie we carry on as normal just make sure that your UV-C is switched off and let the treatment do its stuff .
Chemicals are a means to an end thats all , @bettasngoldfish will tell you of our mistrust of Melafix/primafix your pond wont miss a beat .
Weve found that routine waterchanges are beneficial as is routine sytems maintenance its not failed us in 28 years , another thing weve found out is by use of ploycabonate roffing sheets we can keep our water from freezing over the winter months also the benefits of insulating our sytem against the winter when we get a returm temperaure of between 7-9c .
The attention to detail comes from keeping the koi indoors for 22 years prior to successfully making the transitition outside..

Dave

 

[C-Note]

Thanks @Dave 54 . Sounds good. Yes, I always do weekly water changes of around 20%. The nice thing here is that our winters are so mild, we don't freeze over.

After the first dose last night, all is well this morning. All fish were accounted for at roll call, and I see no alarming behaviors.

 

[bettasngoldfish]

thats great news

 

[Tula]

Thanks @Dave 54 . Sounds good. Yes, I always do weekly water changes of around 20%. The nice thing here is that our winters are so mild, we don't freeze over.

After the first dose last night, all is well this morning. All fish were accounted for at roll call, and I see no alarming behaviors.

Good to hear treatment is going smoothly. How is Frank?

 

[C-Note]

Good to hear treatment is going smoothly. How is Frank?

@Tula Frank is happy. Nothing ever seems to phase him! Thank goodness. If there is any O2 depletion in this process, of course, he would be most affected, so I'm watching closely (working from home today), and will be very diligent with good sized water changes. I'm feeling optimistic, overall!

I did test all parameters again this morning. Going to work on bringing up the KH to keep things stable. I'm feeling great, honestly, about how much I'm LEARNING through all of this. Pond life makes me feel like a freaking scientist lately. Microscope, water tests, medical treatments, and knowing more about O2, CO2, and H2O than I ever imagined I would! Big thanks to the forums!