could/should I add a bog?


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So I'm on my third year of my pond and have had a total of maybe 1 month of decently clear water. The fish love the pond and grow and multiply. The plants love the pond and grow and multiply. But it's always green. Always. I clean the skimmer filters every couple days. Clean the bio falls filters every couple weeks. Doesn't matter. So, seems like everyone who puts in a bog has success. Anyone put one in and find it to be a waste of time/money?

My pond butts up to a shed and fence, and the front has sprinkler lines running in front of it, so I'm pretty much stuck with one spot for the bog--behind the shed. It would be shady most of the time. I'll post a few pics. I can't decide how I'd do this. I thought of putting a tuff stock tank on the ground and letting that flow into the bio falls container to keep my waterfall. But I've always hated my fake looking waterfall. So maybe I take that unit out and fill in the hole and just run some type of short stream to the pond? That would bring me to questions about how to make that work with adding a new liner.... if I'm taking out the biofalls unit, do I just dig a hole for the bog instead of the easier use of a tank (that would be mostly hidden behind the shed)?

For reference, in looking at the pics you can see the waterfall unit, and basically directly across the pond from it is the skimmer unit which houses the pump. The pump pushes water through pvc around the back of the pond by the fence. That gap between the shed and fence is about 3 1/2 feet wide. I don't mind not having much of a waterfall, but want some running water into the pond. Thanks for looking and any ideas/help!
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Jhn

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If you went back further away from the pond along the shed you could probably stick a decent size stock tank in there like 150 gallon or 300 gallon one set up for a bog. Have it spill into a lined stream that dumps into the pond.

You could also build a raised bog back in there out of block or 6x6 that takes up that whole area then dumps into the pond in place of the waterfall.

I have always used plants to filter my pond be it in the pond itself or in a bog, either way this has always kept my water quality up and have never had algae issues.
 
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You built a very nice looking pond area there. I would do both i would build up behind the shed like you said with 3 layers of 6x6 at least this will give you a little bit of a drop from the bog into your pond. But i would also bring it across the back of the pond along the fence up to the second rock. Once you learn what beautiful plants you can grow in the bog AND THE BEST PART IS NEXT TO NO WEEDING . And CLEAR WATER
 
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Very pretty pond, you must be doing something right if fish and plants are happy ! The area that appears to have hay underneath bird houses....is it an area available....or is this where there are sprinkler lines ? I mention it as it looks like it gets a good amount of sun. I also agree with the other posted opinions.....the space behind your shed would work.
 

cas

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You could also try to plant more marginal plants in your pond.
 
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Thanks for the ideas. The area to the right of the pond where the rock, mulch, and birdhouses on the posts is off limits due to spousal mandate. It has pamprass grasses that get 15’ high in the summer.

I like GBBUDDs idea of bringing the bog from behind the shed, along the fence. My only issue is technically a public utility easement exists directly under that fence. According to the laws of my life, if I build right up to the fence, within a month of finishing the city will have a need to dig into that easement! So I want to stay as far away as possible. So....part of me says leave the falls box there, just dump the bog directly into it. That would be easiest. But I don’t love the unnatural look of the falls. But, the falls is a high point and it slopes a bit downhill from there. If I pull the box and run a stream from the bog to the spot where the falls box was, how do I seam that? Just overlap a liner into the pond? Will that wick or weep water back up between liners?
 
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You could also try to plant more marginal plants in your pond.
I try to, but the weather here is still too cold! I’ll add more hyacinth and lettuce and replace the Iris that didn’t make it as it warms up some.
 
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Depending how much of a drop there is from one water level to the other will determine if you can just overlap the rubber. To answer can rubber wick the answer is yes i have seen it wick water a good
1 1/2" in a fold in the liner. There is a sticky on how to seam epdm at the top of the construction blogs.
What about the right side of the pond ? where the bird houses are. Ill tell you what nothing draws birds here like a good shallow area for them to bathe in.

Yea i would not risk building on an easement . they don't care if they have to get there they will drive right over and trough to get there
 
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I'm surprised the iris didn't make it. They are very hardy and hard to kill.
it was planted in shallow gravel and the big goldfish kept pushing it out last fall, then the ice pulled it the rest of the way out. I put it back when we opened the pond, but see no signs of life...
 
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Depending how much of a drop there is from one water level to the other will determine if you can just overlap the rubber. To answer can rubber wick the answer is yes i have seen it wick water a good
1 1/2" in a fold in the liner. There is a sticky on how to seam epdm at the top of the construction blogs.
Well, the drop wouldn’t be too big I don’t think. More of a stream running into the depression where the water falls box would be pulled out. So would just overlapping be yay or nay in that type of situation? I’m starting to fear the transition from bog to pond is gonna make this a lot harder than I was hoping for!
 
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Hard NO do you need to plan it out and do some home work yes. is seaming hard NO can it be tricky yes . the more time you spend in prep the bettter the results will be and just like anything the more you do it the better you get i always suggest practicing on some scrap first before you go to the pond rubber.
 
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Let’s talk size too. The surface area of my pond is conservatively 100 sq ft. I only have 6 goldfish and crap load of minnows I don’t want that will get thinned out here real quick. I see the advice of 30% all the time. I’m not looking to see the very bottom, but I’d love to see 2 ft or so down. Would a 4’ x 4’ bog be sufficient? Here is a pic of what I’d like to get back to....
C33C798D-53AF-4FCC-B4AC-FB1BCF031BDB.jpeg
 
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Hard NO do you need to plan it out and do some home work yes. is seaming hard NO can it be tricky yes . the more time you spend in prep the bettter the results will be and just like anything the more you do it the better you get i always suggest practicing on some scrap first before you go to the pond rubber.
The hard no is to just overlapping? Just want to make sure I understand you. I’ll definitely spend time planning—that’s where I’m at right now, planning. Sorry for all the questions!
 
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No need to be sorry, Most here have finished there builds and enjoyed the hell out of it so they get to relive it helping others. Here is a thread i did about seaming rubber with some videos. https://www.gardenpondforum.com/threads/seaming-epdm-liner.26807/
Just read the pinned thread on seaming. Seems daunting for my purposes—-the liner from the pond that gets seamed would be from the waterfall box. So not a smooth and flat and even piece, not to mention trying to work in that small area. I’ve literally laid awake nights before worried about leaks. I don’t want to risk creating a problem here with the transition to the pond. Maybe I’ll consider the bog just dumping into the waterfall box...
 
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Green water mean excess nutrients. I’d put more oxygenators in there as well as more marginals. How old is this pond? Does this get full on sun and For how long? My pond gets probably 12 hours of full on Virginia sun everyday in the summer....and the first year or two it was algae city. By year 3 I had massive amount of plants (most occurring naturally)...more plants=more competition for the algae. Besides the show stopping favorites of water lilies and irises get the underrated ones that really pay the rent like:-anacharis, dwarf Sagittarius(great for bog), parrots feather, water celery(great for bog), forgetme not(great for bog) these guys have loooong roots that suck up those excess nutrients....but it takes time..if you want crystal clear water fast then do water changes, use very dense material for mechanical filtration(expect to change it a lot), and some chemical filtration like unalgi and barley extract. Also get a clean up crew....tadpoles and snail if you want.
 
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overlaping can be done but I do not know the recommended min. I myself wouldn't be comfortable under 8 " and even then I would add a bead of epdm compatible caulking. for insurance.
 
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overlaping can be done but I do not know the recommended min. I myself wouldn't be comfortable under 8 " and even then I would add a bead of epdm compatible caulking. for insurance.
I’ll try the seaming.....and not sleep for a few nights. I’m thinking of ordering a kit off Pondguy.com. https://www.thepondguy.com/product/the-pond-guy-liner-seam-kit/water-gardens-fish-ponds-pond-liner-underlayment
Unless someone tells me you can buy the same stuff just labeled for roofing a whole lot cheaper!
 
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