Creeping jenn

[Lorri]

Hi I have a big problem again with a murky, green and blanket weed. I have used all various products and the blanket weed seems to be clearing but it is still green. I have used various products for this to but it hasn't improved at all. I have many creeping jenny's around the pond and rocks they have creeped beautifully but are all about a foot into the pond could this be the reason why the pond is so green? I am at the end of my teather with the pond as had similar problems last year. I had it built for my disabled daughter but it has just turned into a great big money pit. Help please

 

[bettasngoldfish]

Hi Lorrie, Sorry your having trouble with your pond.

I have found that water changes and the addition of lives plants will help rid algae from the pond. If there is string algae then as much of that should be removed by hand as possible. Chemicals can be dangerous if there are fish in the pond. I personally wouldn't use them.

The creeping jenny growing down into the pond is fine. It should actually help with the water quality.

 

[Big Lou]

You can also use a fish and plant safe algaecide such as Tetra Pond Algae Control or other brand name products. When used EXECTLY PER DIRECTIONS it is very effective. I've used algaecide safely for 15 years. You can learn more about this product at this link:
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=14231

 

[Faebinder]

Do you have fish in the pond, if so then how many and what is the size of the pond?

 

[Meyer Jordan]

Do you have accumulated sediment on the bottom of the pond? If so, how thick is it?

 

[bettasngoldfish]

There is no such thing as a "safe" algaecide. While Lou has used one for many years "safely" it should be noted that he has mosquito fish (which are very small fish) and not goldfish or koi. I'm not even sure that if some of the small fish did die off if it would even be noticed (I only say that as I have a bunch of feeder guppies and honestly if and when some go missing it is really unnoticed due to the large number of fish)

Remember patience and the right balance will bring clear water. Stores try to push products (that may or may not be safe) as they are there to make money. And basically are selling a bandaid to give a quick fix. If you lose some fish it doesn't matter to them as they sell those too.

 

[Stewart Esox]

What are the best plants to use as im having the same problem. Blanket weed and green water, A few weeks ago i could see the bottom 4.5ft deep. Now i can only see 6 inches. My fish seem happy. Just wish i could see the hole pond lol. I find it interesting that a few have said say away from chemicals. As im wary of using them.

 

[Meyer Jordan]

It is quite normal for ponds in higher latitudes that experience a real Winter to go through the different stages of awakening biologically during the Spring months. Nature's primary goal at this time is to re-establish the food chain. First on the list is re-colonizing the 'producers'....the bacteria and algae. Planktonic algae is very important producer. Soon after, the first of the 'consumers' re-colonize. Among these are the zooplankton that feed on the planktonic algae, quickly reducing it in number resulting in clear water. In turn, these zooplankton ultimately become part of the natural diet of fish.
If a pond that is naturally balanced is desired for the remainder of the year, it is wise to let this cycle play itself out normally. The use of algaecides, whether chemical or mechanical, disrupt this cycle preventing a pond from ever really attaining any true natural biological balance. This can have negative impact later in the year.
It is very important that during this period of transition to clear water that fish are not fed. Feeding the fish at this time only increases the nutrient load of a pond and delays the transition to clear water.

 

[Big Lou]

I would be offended if you were not probably 99% correct. Let's say my algaecide works perfectly in ponds without ortimental fish.

 

[bettasngoldfish]

I would be offended if you were not probably 99% correct. Let's say my algaecide works perfectly in ponds without ortimental fish.

No offence meant to you Lou. Just trying to explain to the original poster.

 

[Lisak1]

If only every new ponder could read and BELIEVE the words- Patience will pay off! The more chemicals and fixes you throw at the "problem" the worse it gets and the longer you delay the balance you are seeking. Hands off. Watch and wait. It will happen!

Best plants? Any and all. Floaters, marginals and lilies all have their unique purpose in your pond. But in the spring, before the plants start doing their part, that algae is already working to keep your pond water healthy and safe for your fish.

Having said all that - if you have a persistent problem with algae and green water, you need to consider your fish load to pond size and how much you are introducing into the water through feeding. These are all important factors to consider. But a well managed pond WILL balance.

 

[Shdwdrgn]

Jumping back into the fray, and I'm surprised nobody has mentioned water testing? Algae bloom early each Spring is normal because the algae starts growing faster than other plants, but once they start growing other plants will suck up the nutrients and help control the algae. That said, it's important to test your water conditions so you have some ideas of what it going on. The common contributor to algae growth is excess ammonia in the water (from fish poo) and can usually be attributed to either too many fish or over-feeding. However another source of food for algae which isn't often tested for is phosphates. This can occur when you don't clean out leaves and dying plants in the Fall, the plant matter decays and phosphates build up. Large water changes will help flush this out, or you can get fish-safe chemicals the neutralize it. And finally there are nitrites and nitrates. If they are not balanced, it can also create a huge algae bloom, however this is usually only a problem for new ponds or if you have done an excessively large water change.

There are test kits available for all of these issues, however note that the phosphate test kit is at least $15 by itself (thus why pond stores are reluctant to test for it). Make sure you use liquid test kits as the paper strips aren't very accurate and will only tell you if something is significantly out of balance.

 

[Meyer Jordan]

Water testing at this time would seem to be wasted effort unless signs of fish stress are observed. It is quite obvious from the presence of an algae bloom that there is an elevated level of nutrients in the water. A more appropriate time for testing would be when the water clears just to verify that the pond is balancing.
Water changes will reduce the amount of nutrients and the amount of algae and the amount of zooplankton while, at the same time, altering probably every other water quality parameter in the pond and stressing the fish leaving the pond more unbalanced. Nature has perfected this annual balancing process over eons. Let Her do the work.

 

[Shdwdrgn]

Nature has perfected this annual balancing process over eons. Let Her do the work.

The problem here is that our ponds are NOT natural. If we left it up to Mother Nature our little creations would be a stagnant wasteland. So we add water pumps and design custom filtration and do what we can to allow the natural processes to actually happen. You need live plants to balance the fish waste, you need water flow to keep the beneficial bacteria alive and thriving, and when you can't provide these things directly you need to add chemicals to reduce the harmful effects.

Water testing provides useful information at every step of the process. On day 1 after filling your new pond, a full test gives you a baseline to work from. Later on it can tell you if the nitrite/nitrate levels are starting to balance out. When your fish are sick, a test can show problems such as high ammonia levels. Beyond that, an older pond that appears well balanced in every other way (such as my pond) may have high phosphate levels which don't directly hurt the fish, but still cause a huge amount of algae to grow.

Yes, nature has her own process, but that only works on open systems where there is a continual flow of fresh water. On a closed system like a backyard pond, we need to monitor the conditions so we know how to help the process along. An algae bloom is a symptom of something, whether it be high ammonia, high phosphates, or just a simple yearly cycle -- but wouldn't you rather play it safe and test for problems rather than just waiting to see if the fish start dying?

 

[Meyer Jordan]

The problem here is that our ponds are NOT natural.

They may be artificial in construction, but the chemical and biological processes that occur in them are purely natural. It is only when these natural processes are hindered or overtaxed do problems occur.

Water testing provides useful information

I don't think that anyone would dispute that and testing the water quality is a very benign act. If one desires so, they can test the pond water every day. And, because you are dealing with a very dynamic chemo/biological system, the test results will not be exactly the same from day to day. But sure, you can test quite often. I have found that once every 3 months is sufficient in an established pond. Most really important data can be obtained through basic visual observations. Too much algae.....High Nutrients. Erratic fish behavior......symptoms will indicate the possible problem source.

Yes, nature has her own process, but that only works on open systems where there is a continual flow of fresh water.

The vast majority of open system lakes and ponds are fed by sources whose water is many time higher in nutrients and pollutants than the lake or pond being fed. Hardy 'fresh' water.