DIY 12v aerator

[brokensword]

You have to know what the watts required by the aerator is to determine the rest of the system. If you don't know that the rest is just guesswork and hit or miss. I know it all sounds confusing but it's really not that bad. i apologize up front if I get too wordy but that's just how I am.

Aerators generate about 1 liter of air per minute, or about 15.8 gallons per hour per watt.
So a 20 watt aerator would pump about 317 gallons of air per hour.

I'm just guessing, but I suppose a gallon of air would be equal to pumping a gallon of water per hour so if you use the guidance usually stated on this forum to pump a volume equal to your pond per hour, that 20 watt air pump should aerate a 300 gallon pond. I checked and found this size pump on Amazon for about $35 with an air stone and some hose.

here's a bit of insight to go along with all your solar knowledge; did you know that the amount of oxygen, contained by the aerator bubbles rising to the surface, that transfers to the water column is negligable? So to begin a premise with X amount of 'gallons of air per hour' is inconsequential. Oxygen is transferred to the water by surface agitation. The trick then is to know how much agitation is sufficient. Find those studies and the type of aerator needed won't depend on it's lph but rather, how much agitation it creates. You also have to then factor in the season as cold water holds much more O2 than summer heated water. Too, the bioload has to be taken into account for their needs. Then you have plants which give off O2 during the day but take it in at night.

So the idea you can provide accurate O2 levels has a lot of variables. About all you can say is; the larger aerator agitates more surface area than the smaller one. Still won't tell you which you really need, though. Best to provide a strong agitation if over stocked or under surfaced (pond surface). And if you provide water movement in the form of waterfalls and streams, you can eliminate the need for an aerator. Then your calculations will move to 'how strong a pump' do I need and what is it's solar footprint.

Anyway, you're falling into the false trap of thinking aeration is measured by the amount of air put into the water column when it's really all about surface agitation.

 

[Solar guy]

I did specifically say "I'm just guessing" in relation to the movement of air versus moving water. I would rather pump water than air given a choice because water pumping is more predictable and efficient. But the original post was looking for information on aeration by solar charged battery power.

 

[sgbotsord]

here's a bit of insight to go along with all your solar knowledge; did you know that the amount of oxygen, contained by the aerator bubbles rising to the surface, that transfers to the water column is negligable? So to begin a premise with X amount of 'gallons of air per hour' is inconsequential. Oxygen is transferred to the water by surface agitation. The trick then is to know how much agitation is sufficient. Find those studies and the type of aerator needed won't depend on it's lph but rather, how much agitation it creates. You also have to then factor in the season as cold water holds much more O2 than summer heated water. Too, the bioload has to be taken into account for their needs. Then you have plants which give off O2 during the day but take it in at night.

So the idea you can provide accurate O2 levels has a lot of variables. About all you can say is; the larger aerator agitates more surface area than the smaller one. Still won't tell you which you really need, though. Best to provide a strong agitation if over stocked or under surfaced (pond surface). And if you provide water movement in the form of waterfalls and streams, you can eliminate the need for an aerator. Then your calculations will move to 'how strong a pump' do I need and what is it's solar footprint.

Anyway, you're falling into the false trap of thinking aeration is measured by the amount of air put into the water column when it's really all about surface agitation.

If correct, then, hanging a small sump pump just above the bottom would be at least as effective as an aerator? Probably use a set of stepped pipes to entrain as much water as possible into the flow and have it open a foot below the surface.

 

[sgbotsord]

has anybody built their own aerator? air pumps on ebay are only about $10-15. im thinking along the lines of a 12 volt car battery to power it, and a solar charger to keep the battery charged.

looking for advice from anybody that might have done something like this.

Probably makes as much sense to skip the battery, and just run whatever number of pumps your solar cell can handle. Run during the day.

Note that the cheapie air pumps can often only handle 1-2 feet water pressure so if your pond is deeper, it may not circulated the deep water.

 

[Doctor mcboy]

has anybody built their own aerator? air pumps on ebay are only about $10-15. im thinking along the lines of a 12 volt car battery to power it, and a solar charger to keep the battery charged.

looking for advice from anybody that might have done something like this.

use a deep cycle battery for better performance. i used a dc battery with a charge controller and a dc to ac converter.. my 35 watt air pump woked good for me.

 

[brokensword]

If correct, then, hanging a small sump pump just above the bottom would be at least as effective as an aerator? Probably use a set of stepped pipes to entrain as much water as possible into the flow and have it open a foot below the surface.

no; the idea is to break the surface with as much agitation as possible; just above the bottom won't even affect the surface. Hanging it AT the surface so it's broken, that will do some good. As much agitation as possible; that's how you get the most oxygenation. Ponds and lakes use large area and wind. Us ponders have to augment a little!