Mmathis
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Have GOOGLED this, but looking for tips based on personal experience.
DOES ANYONE "RAISE" MEALWORMS?
- Thread starter Mmathis
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I started this for a baby bird awhile ago, easy! I started with shoe box size plastic box panty hose leg to slide over top. Put oatmeal in box and a cut in half potatoes. Potatoes are for water, the bugs eat holes in them as well. Put meal worms in the box and keep fresh potatoes and oatmeal, and in a short while you get black beetles, and the beetles make meal worms, and so on and so on. I cleaned my box out every 2 months or so, it will stink sometimes. But look real good for the baby meal worms they are very small. You can do the 2 box thing with top box having holes in the bottom so the baby worms drop into the bottom box with the same set up on oatmeal and potatoes.
Mmathis
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Thanks! I have a batch of beetles -- I went a week & forgot about them, LOL! What do I do with them & how do I know if they've laid eggs yet?
I dont think you can see eggs but the baby mealworms are very tiny at first. I would just do the box thing oats and cut potatoes. use what worms you need leave so for the next batch. No biggie. Keep a net on the top the bettles will get out. [email protected]
fishin4cars
True friends just call me Larkin
Maybe I should look into raising them, considering I feed 100 or more a week and could feed 1000 or more a week between all my animals if I had them,
Mmathis
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My SIL started my wheels turning several years ago -- just never followed up. She raises hers to feed blue birds, mainly. Mine are for the turts as well as yard birds. Because it's what I have available, I'm using "critter keepers" left over from a merit badge class (have removable lids with air holes) but think in the past my SIL said she used the flat, underbed Rubbermaid-type boxes with holes poked in the lid. I think NanWest said she used netting/panty hose legs over the top of her containers. Mainly, need good air circulation, and a way to prevent escapes. And separate containers keeps the bigger fellas from eating the smaller ones [is that right, NanWest?]. Since I've read about keeping OTHER insect critters OUT of the mealworm containers, I might be adding some smaller mesh covering in the future, as well.
Of all the sites I looked up, I liked this one best:
http://www.sialis.org/raisingmealworms.htm
Progress so far: I have a "critter keeper" full of adults (beetles), and one full of newly acquired larvae (the "worms"). I'm sifting everything (the finer particles) from the adult cage, and putting that into a 3rd "critter keeper." That should contain [I guess] their poop, but also any eggs they lay -- and my research says they are egg laying machines. Doing this sifting every couple of days.
So, as the cycle continues, the larvae that don't get fed out, will pupate. Then the pupae will turn into beetles, the beetles will lay eggs, the eggs will hatch into teeny, tiny larvae, and the larvae will eat & grow into more turtle food. The larvae and beetle stage have to be fed -- I'm using oats [not instant], cornmeal, and wheat bran. Haven't done it yet, but they say to add a slice of something like an apple or carrot for moisture, or as NanWest suggested, potato -- being careful to watch for rot, fungus, etc.
As for the turtles, they seem to like to eat the pupae as much as the larvae. I've also fed them the beetles. They are flightless, but [I don't like "bugs"] I use a pair of long tweezers [like for reptile care & feeding] to pull them out and "hand" feed. The turtles like the beetles, as well.
NanWest, if you have any other input, would certainly appreciate that! It's like pond-stuff: you can read, read, read, but it's the personal-experience touch that make all the difference!
Of all the sites I looked up, I liked this one best:
http://www.sialis.org/raisingmealworms.htm
Progress so far: I have a "critter keeper" full of adults (beetles), and one full of newly acquired larvae (the "worms"). I'm sifting everything (the finer particles) from the adult cage, and putting that into a 3rd "critter keeper." That should contain [I guess] their poop, but also any eggs they lay -- and my research says they are egg laying machines. Doing this sifting every couple of days.
So, as the cycle continues, the larvae that don't get fed out, will pupate. Then the pupae will turn into beetles, the beetles will lay eggs, the eggs will hatch into teeny, tiny larvae, and the larvae will eat & grow into more turtle food. The larvae and beetle stage have to be fed -- I'm using oats [not instant], cornmeal, and wheat bran. Haven't done it yet, but they say to add a slice of something like an apple or carrot for moisture, or as NanWest suggested, potato -- being careful to watch for rot, fungus, etc.
As for the turtles, they seem to like to eat the pupae as much as the larvae. I've also fed them the beetles. They are flightless, but [I don't like "bugs"] I use a pair of long tweezers [like for reptile care & feeding] to pull them out and "hand" feed. The turtles like the beetles, as well.
NanWest, if you have any other input, would certainly appreciate that! It's like pond-stuff: you can read, read, read, but it's the personal-experience touch that make all the difference!
Mmathis
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Did you ever have a problem with other bugs getting into your containers? We have a pet bird [cockatiel] and occas. will get those little moths in the house. They are a pain to get rid of. Also occas. get fruit flies [but use apple cider vinegar traps for them].NanWest said:
No I never had other bugs bug me with the meal worm farming. I guess you can get as big as you need, may be a fine screen insert in the top box then they would sift themselves. I did potatoes so I didnt get fruit flys. I would think with apples and fruit it would happen. I forgot about mine sometimes and it never made a difference I guess they eat each other at some point. But I was careful not to get the box wet inside.
Fishinforcars: Its real easy, plastic box, screen, oatmeal, potatoe. Oh mealworm starter ie box of meal worms.
Fishinforcars: Its real easy, plastic box, screen, oatmeal, potatoe. Oh mealworm starter ie box of meal worms.
I've been trying for months to breed mealworms, for the birds, hedgehogs and rats.I have been buying them by the kilo, but the worms would be gone in a day or so if I didn't ration them. So, I thought I would try to ' make ' my own. I have trouble getting oatmeal but I was told I could use finely ground up cornflakes. But despite being fed the mealies have no intention of becoming beetles. Been trying for several months to mkae my own and no success.
I've been trying for months to breed mealworms, for the birds, hedgehogs and rats.I have been buying them by the kilo, but the worms would be gone in a day or so if I didn't ration them. So, I thought I would try to ' make ' my own. I have trouble getting oatmeal but I was told I could use finely ground up cornflakes. But despite being fed the mealies have no intention of becoming beetles. Been trying for several months to mkae my own and no success.
As part of our alternate food program we use mealy worm on a regular basis to add variety to their food.
However we always use freeze dried mealy worm they are freeze dried at the best of their prime thus all the goodness is trapped inside ready for your fish to eat .
Saves you messing around trying to breed them and at £8 3 ltre tub will last for many meals
You'll usually find these tubs in Garden centers and are packaged in China for the wild bird feeding industry.
So it may end up cheaper buying it in this form rather than breed.
rgrds
Dave
However we always use freeze dried mealy worm they are freeze dried at the best of their prime thus all the goodness is trapped inside ready for your fish to eat .
Saves you messing around trying to breed them and at £8 3 ltre tub will last for many meals
You'll usually find these tubs in Garden centers and are packaged in China for the wild bird feeding industry.
So it may end up cheaper buying it in this form rather than breed.
rgrds
Dave
Hartlehare cant you get Quaker oats in the cereal ilse of the grocery store
Dave I have a few extra bags of rice and dried beans in my food storage if you need food I will ship some to you!
BackYard Chickens › Member Pages › How To Raise Mealworms
How To Raise Mealworms
By: Gallo del Cielo
Posted 7/20/11 • Last updated 12/13/12 • 52675 views • 132 comments
[SIZE=large]How to raise mealworms (Tenebrio molitor)[/SIZE]
[SIZE=medium]Everyone who has a small flock of chickens should raise mealworms. It's very easy to do and once set up they are virtually maintenance-free and very inexpensive. I give my girls a hand-full or so a day; they think fresh mealworms are the best treat in the world.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=medium]1. You need a container; I prefer 10 gallon aquaria. They allow you to see the condition of the substrate and the glass keeps them from climbing out. You can also use a plastic tub. Keep in mind that it is better to have greater surface area than depth. Never cover it with anything that restricts airflow, especially if you live in a humid environment; but a wire cover is good to keep the lizards and geckos from eating everything if you keep it outside.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=medium]2. Add about 3" of wheat bran to the bottom of the container. I get mine at places that sell it in bulk, but you can also get it at feed stores. You should get it for $1/lb or less (buy about 4-5 lbs to start). I'm now also adding chicken feed--using the crumbly bits left over in the bottom of the feeder after the chickens eat all the pellets. I would highly recommend freezing any grain product for a couple of weeks or heating it to 130 degrees for 15 minutes prior to adding it to your colony to limit unwanted pests.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=medium]3. Add some mealworms, the more the better and the faster the start-up will be. I recommend starting with at least 1000 for a container the size of a 10 gal. aquarium.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=medium]4. Add some vegetable matter. I use potatoes, apple peals, watermelon rinds, whatever kinds of scraps are available. [/SIZE]Feed them as often as you'd like. The more you feed them, the more they multiply. You don't want it to ever get wet inside, the wheat bran must remain dry. Most colony failures are a consequence of excess moisture, which can spark outbreaks of fungus and mites. I live in one of the driest places in the world and I never add moisture beyond that contained within vegetable matter--and I also avoid adding high water content vegetables. The more varied the diet, the better the worms are as food. Be observant when adding new foods and immediately remove anything that they won't eat to avoid rot. I also add a couple cups of oyster shell which can significantly increase calcium content of the worms.
[SIZE=medium]5. Keep your colony in the shade, outside heat (even in Arizona) is great for them but direct sun or rain will kill them. The warmer they are kept, the faster they develop. They must be brought inside for the winter as their development will slow considerably and they will die in a freeze. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=medium]6. When the wheat bran particles start looking smaller and the layer gets thinner, add more (just dump it over everything). I add more a few times a year. I only clean up the dried vegetable matter that builds up, very rarely the bran. The colony below is over 20 years old and I've only removed the old bran a few times.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=medium]7. Wait a couple months after setting up your colony before you begin using worms for food. Use only the larvae (worms) to feed your birds. The pupae and beetles should be left alone for reproductive purposes and never removed from the colony.[/SIZE][SIZE=medium] Old carcasses will be consumed by successive generations. You can collect worms when you add new food. For example, cut a potato in half, put the cut side down and wait 10 min. or so. The larvae will grip on with their mouths and you just lift them up and shake them into a container. Remember, they are harmless and don't bite. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=medium]8. Some people separate beetles, pupae and larvae--I don't, mostly because production is fine for me without the extra effort. If you provide adequate resources for the colony, cannibalism is very low. However, separating them is a good way to observe development--which is very interesting.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=medium]9. Because reproductive and developmental rates are higher with greater temperatures you'll often have more worms in the summer than winter. You can extend the summer glut of worms by packing them in fresh bran and storing them in the refrigerator for later use.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=medium]A word of caution: With prolonged or frequent exposure to mealworms, some individuals will develop severe allergies to them. I highly recommend wearing a mask while tending to your colony and be observant of any respiratory changes you might experience while working with it. [/SIZE]
How To Raise Mealworms
By: Gallo del Cielo
Posted 7/20/11 • Last updated 12/13/12 • 52675 views • 132 comments
[SIZE=large]How to raise mealworms (Tenebrio molitor)[/SIZE]
[SIZE=medium]Everyone who has a small flock of chickens should raise mealworms. It's very easy to do and once set up they are virtually maintenance-free and very inexpensive. I give my girls a hand-full or so a day; they think fresh mealworms are the best treat in the world.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=medium]1. You need a container; I prefer 10 gallon aquaria. They allow you to see the condition of the substrate and the glass keeps them from climbing out. You can also use a plastic tub. Keep in mind that it is better to have greater surface area than depth. Never cover it with anything that restricts airflow, especially if you live in a humid environment; but a wire cover is good to keep the lizards and geckos from eating everything if you keep it outside.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=medium]2. Add about 3" of wheat bran to the bottom of the container. I get mine at places that sell it in bulk, but you can also get it at feed stores. You should get it for $1/lb or less (buy about 4-5 lbs to start). I'm now also adding chicken feed--using the crumbly bits left over in the bottom of the feeder after the chickens eat all the pellets. I would highly recommend freezing any grain product for a couple of weeks or heating it to 130 degrees for 15 minutes prior to adding it to your colony to limit unwanted pests.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=medium]3. Add some mealworms, the more the better and the faster the start-up will be. I recommend starting with at least 1000 for a container the size of a 10 gal. aquarium.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=medium]4. Add some vegetable matter. I use potatoes, apple peals, watermelon rinds, whatever kinds of scraps are available. [/SIZE]Feed them as often as you'd like. The more you feed them, the more they multiply. You don't want it to ever get wet inside, the wheat bran must remain dry. Most colony failures are a consequence of excess moisture, which can spark outbreaks of fungus and mites. I live in one of the driest places in the world and I never add moisture beyond that contained within vegetable matter--and I also avoid adding high water content vegetables. The more varied the diet, the better the worms are as food. Be observant when adding new foods and immediately remove anything that they won't eat to avoid rot. I also add a couple cups of oyster shell which can significantly increase calcium content of the worms.
[SIZE=medium]5. Keep your colony in the shade, outside heat (even in Arizona) is great for them but direct sun or rain will kill them. The warmer they are kept, the faster they develop. They must be brought inside for the winter as their development will slow considerably and they will die in a freeze. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=medium]6. When the wheat bran particles start looking smaller and the layer gets thinner, add more (just dump it over everything). I add more a few times a year. I only clean up the dried vegetable matter that builds up, very rarely the bran. The colony below is over 20 years old and I've only removed the old bran a few times.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=medium]7. Wait a couple months after setting up your colony before you begin using worms for food. Use only the larvae (worms) to feed your birds. The pupae and beetles should be left alone for reproductive purposes and never removed from the colony.[/SIZE][SIZE=medium] Old carcasses will be consumed by successive generations. You can collect worms when you add new food. For example, cut a potato in half, put the cut side down and wait 10 min. or so. The larvae will grip on with their mouths and you just lift them up and shake them into a container. Remember, they are harmless and don't bite. [/SIZE]
[SIZE=medium]8. Some people separate beetles, pupae and larvae--I don't, mostly because production is fine for me without the extra effort. If you provide adequate resources for the colony, cannibalism is very low. However, separating them is a good way to observe development--which is very interesting.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=medium]9. Because reproductive and developmental rates are higher with greater temperatures you'll often have more worms in the summer than winter. You can extend the summer glut of worms by packing them in fresh bran and storing them in the refrigerator for later use.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=medium]A word of caution: With prolonged or frequent exposure to mealworms, some individuals will develop severe allergies to them. I highly recommend wearing a mask while tending to your colony and be observant of any respiratory changes you might experience while working with it. [/SIZE]
Mmathis
TurtleMommy
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Mine sorta took off (not literally) when I forgot about them. I had some for the turtles, in a Critter Keeper (plastic box with a ventilated, snap-on lid). Some were just starting to pupate. I had the " keeper" inside the house. Then I got caught up in life, including going to Boy Scout camp for a week, and just forgot about them. When I came back, I had beetles! That was when I decided to start breeding them.hartleyhare said:
From what I've read, and I'm sure NanWest has insight as well, but they like some darkness and certain temps in order to multiply. Apparently, temps that are not just right can slow down their morphing processes. So, you may well have this going on, but it's going too slow, or you're maybe not recognizing the stages....? They say you have to keep the adults fed and sift out the stuff in their container (and save it, 'cause it contains eggs). If they get hungry, they'll eat anything, including their eggs -- like koi or goldfish
And I guess you have to experiment with foods. Don't see why cereals wouldn't work. I'd avoid anything sugary or you're likely to attract ants.
Keep us posted!