First pond design... and some Q's

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This only a quick design, I have decided I will build the pond with Concrete blocks and use the hollow insides to hide all the plumbing, still not sure on what pumps and filters I’ll use, however i have now mains power in the area to run underground so I may have to go solar. Will also look at 2 stand alone pumps with fountains alone the centre of the long edge on the right. The clear area at the front will be a viewing window. I’m still not 100% sure if this will go in however it’s easier to remove than to put in.

Pond is mainly above ground; approx 0.4m will be below ground
Pond inside dimensions are:
Right side 4m x 2m x 1m = 8m3
Back side: 1m x 1m x 1m = 1m3 (In front of waterfall)
Top Pond : 0.8m x 0.8m x 0.9 m = 0.57m3

Total litres in top pond = 570 litres
Total litres in main pond = 9000 litres

Top pond is not filled to the ground (this will most likely change this will make the dimensions 0.8 x 0.8 x 1.5m = 0.96m3 = 960 litres

Now for some questions
1. Steps :- what are they for?
2. How much water will I have to move per hour? Will 1500 lph
3. Can I have the pond all at one depth or do I have to have a shallow end and a deep end.

Thanks for the help
 

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addy1

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It can be all one depth. I am not sure what steps you are referring to. That looks like a real neat design, the back pond will water fall into the other pond?

They recommend moving the total amount of water at least every 2 hours, it is better to move more water not less. So if you have 1000 gallon pond you would need a pump that would move approximately 500 gallons an hour.
 
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addy1 said:
It can be all one depth. I am not sure what steps you are referring to. That looks like a real neat design, the back pond will water fall into the other pond?

They recommend moving the total amount of water at least every 2 hours, it is better to move more water not less. So if you have 1000 gallon pond you would need a pump that would move approximately 500 gallons an hour.

Addy,
please see attached, this is what i meant by steps.

Thanks
 

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addy1

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Those are plant shelves, most fish pond peeps do not use them. They give the herons etc a place to stand to eat your fish. Straight down sides are best.
 
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addy1 said:
Those are plant shelves, most fish pond peeps do not use them. They give the herons etc a place to stand to eat your fish. Straight down sides are best.

Straight down is what I was planning anyway. To answer your first post yes that is a waterfall into lower pond.
 

addy1

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That is going to look great, keep us updated with pictures as you build
 
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Hi Nteyz, Actually steps will create a greater proportion of surface area for a given volume of water. Surface area is important for gas exchange. A pond is much healthier with more surface area than a smaller diameter pond that is very deep. Some of your fish may prefer the shallow areas in warmer months especially baby fish. I think it is more interesting to have a variety of levels. Also if you don't go into the ground much you will have more fluctuation in pond temp. The earth tends to regulate the temperature and keeps it from getting too hot in the summer and too cold in the winter.
 

addy1

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It does give extra surface area, totally agree. I have a plant shelf i.e. steps, but I do not have expensive fish. And the plant shelf is 2 feet deep, a little deeper than herons like to stand. There are pond keepers that like the shelves, others that do not like them at all.

And agree about going into the ground, it does help keep the temperature more constant. If that part of aus is in a hot area it will be hard to keep the pond cool. My arizona pond (115 in the summer) stays around 85 with aeration and being in the ground.

good input cometkeith
 

digginponds

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Remember if you decide to add rocks,those in itself take up some of the volume of how much water you will actually have.....just a thought.

I agree with having shelves
Surface area is important for gas exchange
,most blue heron and birds of prey look for cover to hide themselves as they walk up to a pond,so tall grasses or vegetation in or around the pond may actually hurt you ,then help.Not that I don't believe that the birds use those shelves,but a good decoy will keep any prey away.....imho
 
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CometKeith said:
Hi Nteyz, Actually steps will create a greater proportion of surface area for a given volume of water. Surface area is important for gas exchange. A pond is much healthier with more surface area than a smaller diameter pond that is very deep. Some of your fish may prefer the shallow areas in warmer months especially baby fish. I think it is more interesting to have a variety of levels. Also if you don't go into the ground much you will have more fluctuation in pond temp. The earth tends to regulate the temperature and keeps it from getting too hot in the summer and too cold in the winter.

I’ve looked up ‘Gas Exchange' and all I can find is info about winter and icing over, it doesn’t get that cold in my neck of the woods. Lowest temp would probably be 1 -2°c over night and 8-10°c during the day so no honest chance of icing over. Hottest would be about 41-42°c during the day. Obviously having the extra surface area for exchange is still beneficial wether the pond ices over or not?

addy1 said:
It does give extra surface area, totally agree. I have a plant shelf i.e. steps, but I do not have expensive fish. And the plant shelf is 2 feet deep, a little deeper than herons like to stand. There are pond keepers that like the shelves, others that do not like them at all.
And agree about going into the ground, it does help keep the temperature more constant. If that part of Aus is in a hot area it will be hard to keep the pond cool. My Arizona pond (115 in the summer) stays around 85 with aeration and being in the ground.
Please see above comment to CometKeith, also quick temp conversion 115°F = Approx 46°c and 85°F = Approx 29°c, when I think about it this is what I keep my Tropical fish tank water temp at. Pond will be partially underground almost a 50/50 split above and below.
digginponds said:
I agree with having shelves, most blue heron and birds of prey look for cover to hide themselves as they walk up to a pond, so tall grasses or vegetation in or around the pond may actually hurt you ,then help. Not that I don't believe that the birds use those shelves, but a good decoy will keep any prey away.....imho
When you say decoy will a real live dog do?? :lol: :regular_waving_emot

Thanks for your help guys, it is really much appreciated, I have some other questions that you all might be able to help me with.
 
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As I mentioned in the above post more questions so I'll apologise now for the newbieness.

First, I’m still a bit sketchy on the gravity feed concept when it comes to filters, please correct me if the following is wrong or inaccurate.
Water will always self level? What I mean by this is if you had to ‘bodies of water’ i.e pond and filter (we’ll use koiguy1969’s 55 gallon skippy style as an example) and these are connected by a pipe the water in them both will sit at the same level meaning that the inlet piping and the return piping would have to be lower than the water line on the pond and the top of the barrel would have to sit above the waterline to avoid overflow? Then the return piping would be connected to a pump for flow back into my top pond.

Second, how many Litres does the filter have to be? Can I run two filters in succession using the gravity method to transfer from the first barrel to the second?

Third, can I run a second collection point to a second filter with a separate pump and plumb this back to a different area? Say for a second waterfall or a fountain or two?

Fourth, when the sump is flushed water will have to be added back into the pond, can I put in a pipe before the filer but after the collection point to add water so that it gets filtered somewhat and has a start to gaining all the correct properties of pond water to support fish? (Looking at this so as not to shock fish)

Fifth, how do you all combat mosquitoes in both pond and filter?

Sixth, as mentioned in my previous post I have a fresh water tropical aquarium so the nitrogen cycle is nothing new to me, with a pond of say roughly 9000 litres (approx 2300 gallons) how long will this nitrogen cycle take to complete before I can safely put fish in? (Basically I want to age the water with daily ‘feeding’)

Again sorry for the newbieness and thank you all for your help.
 

addy1

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Basically the more surface area you have the easier it is to keep your pond stable.
You do not need to have shelves to make the increase surface area, it can be done just be having a larger pond with straight walls.

A 50 50 split will do well, there are a lot that have built their ponds that way.

A real dog will help, I don't worry about predators, my pond is deep, large and I do not keep expensive koi in it. Right now just two lil fish, more to be added in the spring.

http://www.watergarden.org/Pond-Info/Control-Algae
this is one opinion of how to build and surface area.............everybody has their own opinion.
 

addy1

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I use bogs as filters, so not the best to answer your ?'s about them.
The diy section has a lot of good info on filters.

But yes to #3 ? you can run your lines where you want them to go.

Mosquitoes will get controlled by your fish, frogs etc and moving water, they don't like it
 
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addy1 said:
I use bogs as filters, so not the best to answer your ?'s about them.
But yes to #3 ? you can run your lines where you want them to go.

Mosquitoes will get controlled by your fish, frogs etc and moving water, they don't like it

Bogs? please enlighten me
 

digginponds

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Can your dog load a BBgun? lol ......j/k

I have to say that each has there own way of building a pond,I mean really ,you are the one who has to look at it.But everyone has that opinion on such things as having rocks in the pond,or shelves or not shelves,or bringing in your fish in the winter months,it's really up to the owner. We all want what is best for their finley friends!

Thanks for your help guys, it is really much appreciated, I have some other questions that you all might be able to help me with.
keep askin.
 

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