Fish transport & temporary housing

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Hi there,

I have a friend that is giving me his dads pond setup including about 30 fish. I have been keeping saltwater aquariums for about 10 years so I'm no rookie to transporting livestock. That said I have a few basic questions. Any comments/advice is appreciated.

1. What temp should the fish stay it?
2. Can I house the fish in a temporary 8'x8' container made from 2x4's and a blue plastic tarp?I'm thinking of adding in an air hose and setting up the filters in my garage for the summer while I build the pond. Would this suffice?
3. Anything I should worry about re water quality? (buffers, de-chlorinators, RO water)
4. Are there basic water parameters I should maintain?

Thanks in advance!
Ryan
 

addy1

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1) what kind of fish? temps from 60-85 would be ok
2) air and a good filter you should be fine
3) yep dechlor, test the water with a test kit, do water changes
4) follow the test kit, keep ammonia down etc
 

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what size fish would help also and maybe a kiddy swimming pool as long as you put a net on top of it and keep it out of the sun .Stock tank also would work and come in handy for them in the future .Boston is cooler but sure by how much right now
 
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Same basic answers as aquariums. Have to know the kinds and sizes of fish first to know the answers.

Assuming Goldfish and small Koi...
1. What temp should the fish stay it?
During transport the same as for aquariums, as close to source and destination as possible. Same for pH. Once in the pond the range is say 39-85F. They can survive 32-39F and 85-100F for short periods. 70-75F would be optimal.

2. Can I house the fish in a temporary 8'x8' container made from 2x4's and a blue plastic tarp?I'm thinking of adding in an air hose and setting up the filters in my garage for the summer while I build the pond. Would this suffice?
Yes, if you trust the tarp. I wouldn't but I sure have heard of them used without problems. If you're buying the tarp EPDM isn't much more and you could use it later for a filter or something. Or you might want to keep the structure for use each winter. There are some cool videos on YoutTube of people building ponds in their garage for winter, in Minnesota that can give you ideas for structure. Tanks with windows, cool.

Cover the tank with netting. Goldfish and Koi often jump out, especially when first put into new water.

3. Anything I should worry about re water quality? (buffers, de-chlorinators, RO water)
Yes, everything.

4. Are there basic water parameters I should maintain?
Same basic issues as aquariums. In order of killers, ammonia, nitrite, pH swings, bacteria, virus. Trickle water changing can normally solve most of the problems.

To reduce the amount of water changes you could set up a bio filter. Some of the best used in aquariums are also the best for ponds, although not as well known by pond keepers. The best for your set up would be a Shower Filter. These can be a problem in winter, but you don't have that problem. The shower filters could be placed above the tank for easy setup.

Assuming med-large Koi...
All of the above but you'd probably want an air pump because it'll be summer. A dual diaphragm air pump would be best in case one failed. Best to have the air pump and water pump on different electric circuits. If one pump shorts and trips the breaker you want the other pump to keep going.
 
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@koiguy1969 Great! I ordered this 8' Intex from Amazon and got it next day shipped for under $60. I bought the cover as well for $6.


@Waterbug - Thanks so much for all the info. I figured it would be similar. A few additional questions if you don't mind.

1. What is the best way to purify hose-water?
2. Is this a good way to maintain ph? Hydra Ph Buffer
3. How often & how many gallons are water changes?
 
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1. What is the best way to purify hose-water?
If you mean remove the chlorine there are lots of bottled products. All are about the same imo.

2. Is this a good way to maintain ph? Hydra Ph Buffer
Oh good, a chance to rant about companies...

I have a very low opinion of most companies selling these types of products. They say it's the greatest thing ever but won't say what it is. Too expensive to post that document on the web site??? Maybe they've hidden it some place, but who's got that kind of time. What are they hiding? At least they say it can take 2-3 weeks to buffer the pond. Thanks for that tiny bit of honesty.

Going by the picture, this is some crap slow release buffer. Could just be limestone for all I know. There are lots and lots of people who swear by slow release buffers like oyster shell, plaster of paris, limestone, you name it. Two issues, you need a lot and it's slow.

Get a heavy thunderstorm with a few inches of 2.0 pH rain water you've got ask yourself, is slow release good enough? The manufacturer says 2-3 weeks in normal water (although these things do release faster the lower the pH...but I'm ranting and don't want facts getting in the way). By that time the fish will just be bones caught in the skimmer. And it's expense, like $400 a year for a 5,000 gal pond depending on fish load.

Some people are able to predict the future and know for a fact they would never any kind of low pH rain problem. I unfortunately can't predict the future and don't have a Bluebird on my shoulder. So instead I adjust KH with baking soda and adjust GH with calcium chloride and Epson salts. Cheaper, but more importantly, it's an almost instant buffer and it can be measured. You know how much buffer you have. A pile of rocks or shells...is the pile large enough? No way to tell. Oyster shell and some other things are fine for micro minerals, but shouldn't be considered a buffer imo.

The reason for this long rant is that's one area where I think there's a difference between pond and aquariums..tons of really bad stuff available and a lot more bad info too. I know the aquarium hobby isn't perfect, but the low end pond hobby is pretty bad. I think it's because ponds are easier. Goldfish and Koi can take a lot of abuse and so these products don't cause that many direct deaths. In a small tank with more sensitive and expensive fish you pour in a product and 10 minutes later they're all dead people are going to get mad and start pointing fingers. With water gardens people just buy another $1 worth of feeders. High end Koi pond keepers don't even acknowledge these kinds of products.

3. How often & how many gallons are water changes?
24/7, Google "trickle water change". 10% per day is great, but most people (who do water changes) scale that back to maybe 10-25%. It depends on the type of pond you want to keep. Most popular method is no water changes, never test water, keep the pond for a few years and fill it in when the fish die.

Here's Andy Moo talking about trickle water changes starting at 7:20...I just like listening to him...
 
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@Waterbug. Thanks.

So instead I adjust KH with baking soda and adjust GH with calcium chloride and Epson salts.

1. Ok so you dose baking soda to maintain Alkalinity, but what is the target alk?
2. I assume that GH is general hardness aka Calcium for the calc chloride - what is your target goal here?
3. Epson salts for Mag? Again target?
4. Is there anything else that you dose?

I'll look into the water changes. Thanks for the link and as always, thanks for the info! Very insightful.
 
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1. Ok so you dose baking soda to maintain Alkalinity, but what is the target alk?
Kind of two schools of thought. Keep a low KH in the 80-150 ppm range and try and maintain a pH in the 7.0-7.5 range. Down side is you have to test KH more often. The other school keeps KH in the 300 ppm range which provides a lot of buffer, less chance of pH crash. Some people think the lower KH makes for a better white color on Koi. In theory Goldfish and Koi can take up to 10,000 ppm but no reason to go that high.

At 300 ppm and GH in the 200 ppm range pH should be a stable 8.3 in most ponds. The KH drives pH above 8.3 and the GH drives it down to 8.3.

2. I assume that GH is general hardness aka Calcium for the calc chloride - what is your target goal here?
3. Epson salts for Mag? Again target?
GH measures both magnesium and calcium. Somewhere in the 100-200 ppm range I'd say. If you wanted to know magnesium level and calcium level you'd need something like a LaMotte calcium test kit, do some math, and subtract the calcium level from the GH to get the magnesium level. If you went that far I'd be shooting for a 50-50 split. Few people go that far.

4. Is there anything else that you dose?
In the distance past I did add different things, salts, products, etc., but I didn't know what I was doing. So just KH & GH.

If you have good KH & GH from your tap water and you do trickle changes you probably won't need to add anything ever. Adjustment is generally only needed in softwater areas and high fish loads because the bio filter consumes KH.
 

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