Front Yard Koi Pond- No Fence- No Predators

DouglasHoover

Douglas Hoover
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Front Yard Koi Pond -- No Fence -- No Predators

Legally build your own predator-free, 3 foot deep "Fence-less Koi Pond"TM in your front yard.

Most cities have building codes or ordinances prohibiting the construction of ponds or fountains deeper than 18 inches in a front yard without the protection of a 6 foot perimeter fence. Many have the same restrictions for a side or back yard.

The obvious reason is to protect against accidental drowning. However, a shallow pond makes it impossible to have koi fish or turtles, since both of the aquatic creatures require at least three feet of water to prevent becoming lunch for raccoons, cranes, egrets, trolls and gnomes. These evil-doers can easily wade in 18 inch of water, but can't in 3 feet of water; plus you can create caves for them to hide in. Turtles will generally not stay in a pond if they do not feel safe while basking in the sun, which all turtles require. They don't feel safe while exposed on the shore so they look for a log, lilies, protruding rocks or islands of any sort. That way, in the event of danger they can retreat to the deep water and caves in any direction.

With this new engineered design I came up with in 1984, it solves every problem. You can legally skirt the building code for depth requirement, the koi will be safe from predators and the turtles will be safe, too -- and tickled pink! All right already, I'm getting to it!

The good news for you liner guys -- this design works with liner construction however be aware the is a very strong possibility of an eventual cave-in from the weight of the grid covered with rocks. You should make the support ledges a minimum of 12 inches to better support and distribute the weight

Now for you "professionals" LOL that use reinforced concrete (used in the construction of the Hoover Dam) -- compared to liners, it is basically permanent and will be enjoyed by the great great great grandchildren. These directions will address rebar and concrete construction. Best thing is, any do it yourselfer can work with 3/8 rebar and concrete.

I will cover the general design and functionality of a "Fence-less Koi Pond"TM but not technique.

First decide the length, width and depth of the pond. Since it is reinforced concrete, unlike liner construction, it can be as deep as you desire! The width is the critical measurement, since you will be spanning the pond with 1/2 inch epoxy-coated rebar with width and length grid, then placing rock on the grid. If it is over a 5 foot span, you will need a 4-6 inch column to offer support in the center. Create a 4 inch ledge 18 inches down from the edge of the pond to support the rebar grid. As you have now realized, once the pond is filled, and rock 9 inches or larger are placed on the grid, leaving every third grid open for escaping fish, turtles or frogs, you now have a legal 18 inch deep pond.

You will incorporate two 8 inch anti-vortex suction drains (the same drains used in a swimming pool) in the floor of the pond, Dual anti-vortex drains never plug and will never suck up a fish, frog or turtle, only suspended particulate like fish doodoo. Consequently, you will rarely have a need to access the lower pond. The skimmer and AquaFill water leveler are located above the grid and easily accessed. Install the quietest, most energy efficient centrifugal pump on the market, e.g. a Sequence pump (3 year warranty). Use an Aqua Ultraviolet Ultima II bio-filter with a ultraviolet light for algae and pathogen control.

The epoxy-coated grid

  • makes the pond legal

  • protects pond life from predators

  • provides a platform and support for a turtle island

  • provides a place for potted water plants of every variety- from papyrus and cattails to water iris and lilies, sweet flag, taro, pickerel, parrot feather etc.

This is the first time 28 years that I have published the design of my “Fence-less Koi Pond”TM . Remember where you heard it first, and pass it on. If you have any questions askDougHoover.com


Here are a few "Fence-less Ponds"(TM)

View attachment 52910View attachment 52911View attachment 52912View attachment 52913View attachment 52914View attachment 52915View attachment 52916View attachment 52909
 

sissy

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hmm interesting for people on here who want fish but have turtles also .But places where it freezes solid shallow is not the greatest and where heat can be extreme it may be a problem as water will over heat .My pond is over 4 ft deep and it is in full sun and i had to make shade sails as water was hitting up on the 80 degree mark and would have gotten higher if i had not shaded it .My pond is off to the side of my covered front porch so i can see and hear it from there .I don't like the look of the shade sail but I have no choice .Your pics did not show up and not sure why
 

sissy

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this is the view down from my front porch while I was rebuilding the bridge and sides of the pond and could only put up temporary shade so i could still work on the pond .The window screen I keep up on the other side because the fish freak out from the work I was doing so keeps them from jumping out .Plus helped shade that side a little and keep dropped things from falling in the pond
 

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DouglasHoover

Douglas Hoover
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Thanks for your input Sissy,

This pond is constructed with reinforced concrete and steel and if located in a freezing climate the sides would be formed sloping out from the bottom, so even if this 3 to 4 ft deep pond were to freeze solid ( but not likely) the outward pressure and sloped walls would cause the ice to be thrust upward relieving the sideways hydraulic pressure, preventing the concrete from cracking.

I have had 5 of my 2-1/2 foot deep concrete ponds freeze solid- three in northern Michigan one in North Dakota and one in northern Montana on the Canadian border. None cracked and none have lifted out of the ground from frost and freezing- Nor have the rocks cracked loose from the shell. The rocks were mounted using a special mortar formula I developed in 1989 called Aquamedia Mortar Mix. It is strong, dense, waterproof so moisture cannot get between the rock and concrete shell allowing the freezing waters hydraulic pressure from expanding and breaking them loose. Hope I made it clear-

Warm regards- Douglas
 

sissy

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what about fish .Thank you and it was a nightmare with the liner getting it in as i actually had to get under the liner to spread it out in the pond and then under there lost my direction to get out .4 feet deep and 5 ft woman don't mix well .Took me a month to dig it because of course stupid me waits until it gets hot out and temps got up around 100 degrees .I had to use retaining wall block because the ground slopes and this was the first pond i ever built so i knew nothing .I sure wish i knew how big koi got but no one told me .I have never had a fish die on me so guessing i am doing something right .My koi were a couple of inches long 9 years ago and are now over 2 ft. long .I have given away over 30 babies to new ponders .still have to rebuild the waterfall and put in the new oval tank i bought for a filter so i can put more plants in the filter .Here it is rural so you have to make up things as you go .I retired here just over 9 years ago from NJ .Much cheaper to live here .The other house I own in VA has a pond with a liner too but has a natural spring running into it with no filter and no pump and it came with the house .Not sure but it does stay clear and clean but it only has goldies in it .Not sure how many any more .Been 2 years and it still seems fine .Took a month to clean and clear away all the over growth .The house was empty for almost 4 years .
 

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