getting my fish drunk...... seriously, watch.

[tbendl]

Thank you, it's a fascinating read.

 

[crsublette]

$0.34 per ounce for BRS Bulk Calcium Chloride. At the Chemistry Store (which is also a more pure grade than the BRS product), $0.11 per ounce for Calcium Chloride. During the Winter, this product is sold at hardware stores, that can be found with no additives, and can be bought for even cheaper than this.

Quick correction.

$0.33 per ounce (no pickup of any type available) = BRS calcium chloride 1 gal (7 lbs) @ $18.99 + 3 day shipping @ $17.75 = $36.74

$0.30 per ounce (if shipped) or $0.11 per ounce (if picked up at warehouse) = Chemistry Store tech-high grade calcium chloride (7 lbs) @ $12.00 (and available for pickup at warehouse to avoid shipping charges) + UPS ground @ $21.73 = $33.73

If you go directly to a landscape supply or hardware store, get pure calcium chloride (no additives, no rust inhibitors, pet safe), then this can be bought for around $0.03 per ounce.

 

[morewater]

Thanks so much for this list! I was wondering what else I could put in my pond that was on the small side and one I was going to try is on this list!!! I will be printing this out and putting in my pond binder.

Do not, I repeat, do not....under any circumstances put marijuana in your pond.

It makes it soggy and extremely difficult to light.

 

[Paultergeist]

Interesting concept......carbon dosing appears to be a much-debated topic among the reef aquarium folks. Like most of the methods proported to effect algae, there are some who swear by it and others who have experienced limited/no success with the practice.

I am curious about this: if the added carbon source -- in this case, the vodka -- indeed leads to a *bloom* of heterotrophic bacteria (the growth of which also takes up other nitrogen and phosphorus compounds), is there an effective way to then remove that "sink" of bacterially-absorbed nutrients from the pond? In realize that people speak of using protein skimmers to remove some bacteria from the water, but the general dogma of bacterial colonization is that such bacteria are primarily in microfilm communities attached to substrate -- and thus would not be effectively removed by protein skimmers.

To the OP: any additonal thoughts on this?

 

[MitchM]

... but the general dogma of bacterial colonization is that such bacteria are primarily in microfilm communities attached to substrate -- and thus would not be effectively removed by protein skimmers....

I stopped dosing vodka on my reef because of excess buildup of that biofilm on my skimmer pump intake.
Tried it a few years ago, was fun while it lasted.

 

[crsublette]

In realize that people speak of using protein skimmers to remove some bacteria from the water, but the general dogma of bacterial colonization is that such bacteria are primarily in microfilm communities attached to substrate -- and thus would not be effectively removed by protein skimmers.

I think it would be a safe assumption in saying there would be a "decay" occurrence once the vodka dosing stops, which the vodka's organic carbon is the fuel giving these organisms the main reason to exist. So, this "decay" would either be released "sloughed off" from its bio-film adding to DOC content or further feeding other organisms thus adding to the oxygen reduction.

From everything I have read about this method on coral reef forums, when it was done, there was a noticeable increase in dark color and foul odor from the "doc skim" collected in the protein skimmer, which would indicate it is either capturing dead floating algae or captured sloughed off dead bacteria .


My theory is that, once vodka dosing stops, the dead bacteria "sloughing off" bio-film would add to the DOC.


Also, most of the serious observers on coral reef forums of this method were observing ORP and DO values as well.

 

[morewater]

I've tried Vodka dosing in my pond, but it didn't work. I think it's most likely because the Vodka never actually made it as far as the pond.

 

[Shakey]

Ponds are to help. Calm people down so let's just chill out a bit people I'm going to have a bourbon and visualise what my pond will look like

 

[mariobrothersleeve]

Interesting concept......carbon dosing appears to be a much-debated topic among the reef aquarium folks. Like most of the methods proported to effect algae, there are some who swear by it and others who have experienced limited/no success with the practice.

I am curious about this: if the added carbon source -- in this case, the vodka -- indeed leads to a *bloom* of heterotrophic bacteria (the growth of which also takes up other nitrogen and phosphorus compounds), is there an effective way to then remove that "sink" of bacterially-absorbed nutrients from the pond? In realize that people speak of using protein skimmers to remove some bacteria from the water, but the general dogma of bacterial colonization is that such bacteria are primarily in microfilm communities attached to substrate -- and thus would not be effectively removed by protein skimmers.

To the OP: any additonal thoughts on this?

Right now I'm holding off. When October came around, I was below 40 degrees. No point to continue until spring.

 

[mariobrothersleeve]

I think it would be a safe assumption in saying there would be a "decay" occurrence once the vodka dosing stops, which the vodka's organic carbon is the fuel giving these organisms the main reason to exist. So, this "decay" would either be released "sloughed off" from its bio-film adding to DOC content or further feeding other organisms thus adding to the oxygen reduction.

From everything I have read about this method on coral reef forums, when it was done, there was a noticeable increase in dark color and foul odor from the "doc skim" collected in the protein skimmer, which would indicate it is either capturing dead floating algae or captured sloughed off dead bacteria .


My theory is that, once vodka dosing stops, the dead bacteria "sloughing off" bio-film would add to the DOC.


Also, most of the serious observers on coral reef forums of this method were observing ORP and DO values as well.

Vodka dosing does not create more doc's once stopped. That is a hypothesis.
I start and stop all the time, no negative effects.
This is for both, reef and pond. You get the shit out of the system and then you stop or go into a maintain dosing.
You can go on living reefs, a sister fourm and see my set ups there too if you'd like. Pictures included in my set up. ;-)

 

[crsublette]

Vodka dosing does not create more doc's once stopped. That is a hypothesis.
I start and stop all the time, no negative effects.
This is for both, reef and pond. You get the shit out of the system and then you stop or go into a maintain dosing.
You can go on living reefs, a sister fourm and see my set ups there too if you'd like. Pictures included in my set up. ;-)

Reefkeeping online magazine wrote a good article, an accumulation of testimonials that have done this, some agree with you and some do not agree about the observed side effects.

When comes down to it, folk should have an open mind when trying stuff in their ponds.

 

[sissy]

Well all I can say all the makers of vodka may be making more money if it does work .Duel purpose .Never read the info on this and never saw this post but hey if it works great if not oh well

 

[mariobrothersleeve]

Reefkeeping online magazine wrote a good article, an accumulation of testimonials that have done this, some agree with you and some do not agree about the observed side effects.

When comes down to it, folk should have an open mind when trying stuff in their ponds.

I have never researched it not working, it really never crossed my mind. I could see it not working in a dsb, but it's getting off course a bit.
In the month and a 1/2 I used the vodka, it did work pretty well in the pond. I did see an increase of pull out of the filters and continued to maintain. The water was crystal clear. I do run gravel bottom and stir it up. The all in one filter had some awesome stinky thick sludge that came out, all in a month and a half. No joke, it had to be 3 lbs.

I should state, I am testing for trates and phates. Do not dose anything you can't test for.

If you want to go the debate way of things, research bio balls for reef tanks. 300 pages in just 1 fourm. I'm on all those fourms too.

It does work, just getting the dose right can be tricky. If you dose to much, you wall get the white cloud of bacteria. Those are the numbers I'm trying to achieve for safe limits.

The other one is to collecting the waste. I have a couple of simple ideas, and wanna use these routes first.

 

[Dave 54]

Reefkeeping online magazine wrote a good article, an accumulation of testimonials that have done this, some agree with you and some do not agree about the observed side effects.

When comes down to it, folk should have an open mind when trying stuff in their ponds.

I agee Charles but it may be worth experimenting , however it does sound pretty dubious Mario what would the dose rate be for 1,000 gallons inperial do you have any idea ?
I pray you had a good New Years Eve Charles its nice to see you again .
Have a great year .
Mario why not link us in to all the data from the other forums , this is getting quite interesting it seems to be working well for you .

Dave

 

[mariobrothersleeve]

I agee Charles but it may be worth experimenting , however it does sound pretty dubious Mario what would the dose rate be for 1,000 gallons inperial do you have any idea ?
I pray you had a good New Years Eve Charles its nice to see you again .
Have a great year .
Mario why not link us in to all the data from the other forums , this is getting quite interesting it seems to be working well for you .

Dave

As for dosing, I'm using .1 mls per 25g of water volume. I increased it to .2 per 25g and have no ill affect, so that is double dosing for 1 week. I went from 140 to 60 for nitrates with 0 w/c. I decreased my phates from 50 to less than 5ppm.
I never have linked anything, Charles can you link the info from thereeftank.
Thanks.