Hello to All and HELP!

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Waterbug said:
Can you post some wide shots of your pond?
ok, here they are!
The pond is on the West side of the house in a vertical W/E position.

Toward the West:
IMG_2500.jpg

Toward the North:
IMG_2503.JPG

Toward the East:
IMG_2506.jpg

Toward the South:
IMG_2507.JPG

DISCLAIMER: We inherited this pond in this DIY condition. The only thing we've done is prune the hedges due to too many per foot.
 

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capewind said:
I havent read ALL of the other posts word for word, so dont know if this has been asked yet ... looking at the color of your water, are you getting any run off from the yard??? It looks like your liner may be laying flush with grade to allow run off in ... You want your liner to be at least a little above grade, whether you cheat it with dirt or rocks, doesnt matter, but that could be part of your problem too ... also, you could have a fair amount of sludge between the rocks that are in the pond itself ... a good filter is going to get a lot of what is IN the pond, but if there is runoff too, that will make the process ongoing... the color of the water could be decomposing plant matter and muck too from simply not having a filter ... in any regard, you do need some form of a filter, but just caught how the edges of the pond liner meet grade ...

Go to the DIY construction section to see if you, or the friends, could build something for you ... or if you'll definately need to purchase, and if a purchase, everyone can tell you what is working for them ...
I took MORE photos of the sides.... the steepest sides won't hold the larger stones. A large amount of the white stone has fallen in also. I may have access to some bulk stone, but unsure how to stabilize on these sides..... p.s. the large dead clump is a water lilly that is about to come out and be repotted. :)

IMG_2507.JPGIMG_2508.JPGIMG_2509.JPGIMG_2510.JPGIMG_2511.JPGIMG_2512.JPGIMG_2513.JPGIMG_2514.JPGIMG_2515.JPG
 
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capewind said:
Go to the DIY construction section to see if you, or the friends, could build something for you ... or if you'll definitely need to purchase, and if a purchase, everyone can tell you what is working for them ...
I would start a new thread on this (if I knew how)........ I am definitely buying one SO

Ok, EVERYONE: What filter works for you?

Please post specific brand & GPH...... a link would be SUPER AWESOME Too!
 
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Wow, with the additional photos, you can really see the protein (foam) ... WB may say they are DOCs ... I use the term foam, just because it makes me think of a protein skimmer we had on a marine tank ... I am likely very incorrect on my terminology there ...

Our outside filter would be overkill on your pond ... We are running a Laguna Filter Falls 5000, with a 8000 gph pump (pump is split to another waterfall and UV, 8000 gph is too much for this filter) ... inside, we have a combo of filters that would either be too small for your pond, or homemade ... for store bought items, I know hubby likes Laguna and Savio for his clients (NOTE, I said hubby's clients, but *I* am still more or less a novice when it comes to more than the basics)...
 
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capewind said:
A nice little pump that another group member turned me onto is this one ... good volume, and short money .. just bought a second one a couple days ago ... I did buy the 2 yr warranty on the second pump. It was $20 more.

http://www.harborfreight.com/submersible-waterfall-pump-68418.html
I found a store "near" me with expected delivery of Thursday! Hopefully, that will make some difference.
 
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Remember, this is JUST A PUMP ,.. now you need a FILTER to connect the PUMP to. The water will get drawn from your pond via the pump, then be plumbed to a FILTER to remove the larger debris ....
 
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capewind said:
Remember, this is JUST A PUMP ,.. now you need a FILTER to connect the PUMP to. The water will get drawn from your pond via the pump, then be plumbed to a FILTER to remove the larger debris ....
Yes, thank you! What FILTER to buy??? I would LOVE a submersible, all-in-one but I am unable to find one that pushes enough GPH. Any advice? ;)
 
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capewind said:
Hubby said for easy from a box, even tho your pond is smaller than ours, he would tell you to get the same filter we have, but even on ebay, they are pricey.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Laguna-Powe...518?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cd0f6e276
Thanks! But as you can see, my pond is in my front yard directly in front of the porch and I don't have anywhere to hide that filter. What do you/does your hubby think of an Aquascape 1500?

Awwhhh......... nevermind, just another pump :(
 
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AlaPAMa said:
Thanks! But as you can see, my pond is in my front yard directly in front of the porch and I don't have anywhere to hide that filter.
You half bury it ... it is also a waterfall in a box, and can hide it with rocks and plants. There are other filters that he uses for clients, but they require him building them, and I asked him for EASY ;-)

AlaPAMa said:
What do you/does your hubby think of an Aquascape 1500?
I dont know the brand, but looked it up ... it is smaller (gph) and more $$$ than the one from Harbor Freight ... Before finding the Harbor Freight pump (again, thanks to a member here), his preference was for Laguna or Pond Master pumps ... big price difference tho, so I am really liking the one I showed you from Harbor Freight.
 
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Thanks for the pictures. From the fountain I can see a lot of suspended algae. OK, possible improvements. There are several issues which in total cause the problem.

1. Decomposing plant material, dead bodies, frog spawn.

2. Suspended algae, whether single cell (green pond) or slime (floating).

3. It's spring. Decomposition slows in winter and when water warms up bacteria go into over drive. The whitish grayish hue is probably bacteria, so much that you can see the mass.

I wouldn't list runoff as a problem, but it well may be. I can't tell from the pictures. Reducing runoff risk would be a good idea however.

The UV is not working. If you haven't replaced the bulb in the past year then it's time. Turn off the UV in the mean time as it's doing nothing. Whether you want to mess with the UV is an issue. Because of the other issues a UV may not make a big difference in the short term.

Bottom line is there is just too much decomposing organic matter in the pond. This includes the potted plants. Virtually everything else you do is never going to get a head of that waste. You could buy a dozen filters.

I would remove everything from the pond and start over. Mainly because I'd want to know what was in the pond.

I would build a concrete block collar around the perimeter to stabilize the edges to stop rocks from falling in. That will also fix most/all of the runoff issue. would also cover the liner above the water line but that doesn't have anything to do with clear water. Actually I always mortar rock over the entire liner, but again, nothing to do with clear water.

When I mortar rock the bottom I also build a "planter" out of mortared rock for the lily. That helps reduce soli/media from moving out into the pond and makes cleaning easier.

I move all plants into their own separate planter. Looks like it's in the pond but isn't exactly.

Because of your type of pond I would suggest a vacuum for cleaning. A net can be used but is more difficult. Trees on your lot, lots of plants and no skimmer or bottom drain system means vacuum is your best choice. You'd want to vacuum 2-4 times per month.

Once the "new" pond is done I'd make sure the UV was working.

Things that can help. Google "Trickle Tower pond filter". This can be as simple as a pile of rocks that you run water over. Like where your fountain is you could extend that to about 2-3' and just pile rocks around it. TT filters are self cleaning, self washing. They can get macroalgae to grow and that can kill green water algae (theory). A TT is not a guarantee for clear water and are normally considered only a bio filter, meaning converting ammonia, which you don't need. But a TT is based on a stream, it's like building a stream. We don't know how but in many cases streams seem to create clear water. I believe it has to do with macroalgae, but that doesn't matter.

Or adding a stream but I assume that's more than you'd want to do.

There is a possibility the TT only could get you the water you want. But cleaning out the pond and separating the plants increase the odds. A pond can have a lot of decomposing waste and still be clear. It's more of a question of how fresh the organic material is, how fast it is coming into the pond. There's more than one way to approach the issues.

As a general guideline a pond like yours has to be cleaned manually. Aquascape for example requires their ponds to be emptied and cleaned at least once a year. However vacuuming is another way as long as the bottom allows vacuuming. Loose rocks, plant pots, etc., can make vacuuming impossible. Which is why Aquascape requires their ponds to be emptied, they have loose rocks.

Keep up the vacuuming and get the UV working and you'll have clear water.

Buy a combo filter...prepare for more learning.
 
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Waterbug said:
Thanks for the pictures. From the fountain I can see a lot of suspended algae. OK, possible improvements. There are several issues which in total cause the problem.

1. Decomposing plant material, dead bodies, frog spawn.

2. Suspended algae, whether single cell (green pond) or slime (floating).

3. It's spring. Decomposition slows in winter and when water warms up bacteria go into over drive. The whitish grayish hue is probably bacteria, so much that you can see the mass.

I wouldn't list runoff as a problem, but it well may be. I can't tell from the pictures. Reducing runoff risk would be a good idea however.

The UV is not working. If you haven't replaced the bulb in the past year then it's time. Turn off the UV in the mean time as it's doing nothing. Whether you want to mess with the UV is an issue. Because of the other issues a UV may not make a big difference in the short term.

Bottom line is there is just too much decomposing organic matter in the pond. This includes the potted plants. Virtually everything else you do is never going to get a head of that waste. You could buy a dozen filters.

I would remove everything from the pond and start over. Mainly because I'd want to know what was in the pond.

I would build a concrete block collar around the perimeter to stabilize the edges to stop rocks from falling in. That will also fix most/all of the runoff issue. would also cover the liner above the water line but that doesn't have anything to do with clear water. Actually I always mortar rock over the entire liner, but again, nothing to do with clear water.

When I mortar rock the bottom I also build a "planter" out of mortared rock for the lily. That helps reduce soli/media from moving out into the pond and makes cleaning easier.

I move all plants into their own separate planter. Looks like it's in the pond but isn't exactly.

Because of your type of pond I would suggest a vacuum for cleaning. A net can be used but is more difficult. Trees on your lot, lots of plants and no skimmer or bottom drain system means vacuum is your best choice. You'd want to vacuum 2-4 times per month.

Once the "new" pond is done I'd make sure the UV was working.

Things that can help. Google "Trickle Tower pond filter". This can be as simple as a pile of rocks that you run water over. Like where your fountain is you could extend that to about 2-3' and just pile rocks around it. TT filters are self cleaning, self washing. They can get macroalgae to grow and that can kill green water algae (theory). A TT is not a guarantee for clear water and are normally considered only a bio filter, meaning converting ammonia, which you don't need. But a TT is based on a stream, it's like building a stream. We don't know how but in many cases streams seem to create clear water. I believe it has to do with macroalgae, but that doesn't matter.

Or adding a stream but I assume that's more than you'd want to do.

There is a possibility the TT only could get you the water you want. But cleaning out the pond and separating the plants increase the odds. A pond can have a lot of decomposing waste and still be clear. It's more of a question of how fresh the organic material is, how fast it is coming into the pond. There's more than one way to approach the issues.

As a general guideline a pond like yours has to be cleaned manually. Aquascape for example requires their ponds to be emptied and cleaned at least once a year. However vacuuming is another way as long as the bottom allows vacuuming. Loose rocks, plant pots, etc., can make vacuuming impossible. Which is why Aquascape requires their ponds to be emptied, they have loose rocks.

Keep up the vacuuming and get the UV working and you'll have clear water.

Buy a combo filter...prepare for more learning.
I think it's Wildlife Pond time.....
 
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Easy is a relative concept. It is not unusual for an owner to consider changing a bulb in a UV as too much work. It isn't as easy as changing a light bulb. Or to pile up some rock to make a Trickle Tower.

You can call your Wildlife Pond a "Frog Sanctuary". It is good for the environment imo. Enjoy.
 
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Waterbug said:
Easy is a relative concept. It is not unusual for an owner to consider changing a bulb in a UV as too much work. It isn't as easy as changing a light bulb. Or to pile up some rock to make a Trickle Tower.

You can call your Wildlife Pond a "Frog Sanctuary". It is good for the environment imo. Enjoy.
I don't mind changing a bulb in a UV, or vacuuming the pond, or building up the sides and buying and maintaining a filter and transplanting water lilies .....but I am incapable and overwhelmed by the amount of work required from your previous post. :)
I will continue to do all that I can to maintain a health pond, but it looks as if I will have to hire anything further :unsure:
Thanks!
 

j.w

I Love my Goldies
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AlaPAMA
I somehow missed this thread and hope you find all the info you are looking for to help get your pond in tip top shape to your liking!
 

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