Help: With 55 gallon barrel filter...

BlakeA

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Sorry i haven't been on the forum in a while, lots of work, and in my free time i've been working in the yard. I'll post some pics when i get home from work in the morning explaining better what i need help with, but i figured i'd go ahead and post and try to get some ideas.

I currently have a 2000gph pump, going to a rather small filter, i believe its supposed to handle about 1500gph, but i have an attachment powering a small fountain, so i don't think the pump is overkill on the filter right now, but i do think with the 14 fish i have introduced to the pond, my love for feeding them, and the algae growth i've been getting, that a large 55 gallon filter would be nice.

Also, i have a nice container which i will also take a picture of in the morning, im going to use for a hospital, or emergency tank, and i plan to use the small filter for it, when i get the large one built.

I have a 55 gallon drum, and access to all the fittings, but im not sure of the exact science behind it. The material to use to filter inside of it, the position of the inlet/outlet on the sides, i'd also like to try to fashion a backwash feature if possible to make cleaning easy. Would my 2000gph pump be sufficient for this? and still be able to pump to my waterfall? would a 55gallon filter be too much for a 1500 gallon pond?

i apologize if there is already a thread on the subject, i thought i saw one recently but i cant seem to find it now, but this is kinda unique, because i have specific questions to my pond, lol.

~Blake
 

koiguy1969

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o.k. first your pump should be sufficient for the job.... the science the water is going to flow in from the top down thru the center and out the bottom into the tank.. where it will then rise up thru the filter media ata pace that allows thew media to filter out solids, and the bacterias living on the surface of the media to break down and convert the harmfull ammonias and nitrates to nitrites wich can be used as fuel for the plant life. this basically completes a cycle of nature, but in a controlled enviroment. now there is many materials you can use for the media... most use scrubby pads , dr dave uses cut up irrigation tubing you can use styrofoam packing peanuts. cut up straws, whatever, even lava rock. anyways there are two threads on these filters..in the equipment forum you'll find "building a 55 gallon bio filter"... and "my 70 gallon skippy filter" in the diy section, between the 2 you should be able to figure it out easily.
 

BlakeA

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well, i'll be 22 june the 9th, and my fiance's parents are going to buy me a checklist i make for the filter, and a new pair of shoes, lol. I definately like the scrubby pads in the mesh bag, that i saw on one of the threads, the main thing iw anted to know was about the science behind it, as in the water coming thru the middle then up, and into the overflow, back into the pond. I'll probably ask a few mroe questions here in the next few days, thank you.

~Blake
 

DrDave

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The lightest with the most surface area is the cut irrigation tubes. If I ever have to move mine, all I need to do is drain the water, then it becomes very light because the tubes will release all the water unlike sponges that hold it. This is especially important if you have yours trapped inside an earthen and block waterfall and it has to be lifted vertically to remove it. So far, I have not had to do this, but I planned for it when I designed it.
 

koiguy1969

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yeah its true sponges would be a bad idea,so if you use scrubbies, dont buy the ones with sponges. the ones i use are bouyant and allow the water to drain. not as fast, but they dont have all the open space in center.thats why i have a top grate in my filter.. to keep my media from exiting thru the waterfall weir.
 

BlakeA

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DrDave said:
The lightest with the most surface area is the cut irrigation tubes. If I ever have to move mine, all I need to do is drain the water, then it becomes very light because the tubes will release all the water unlike sponges that hold it. This is especially important if you have yours trapped inside an earthen and block waterfall and it has to be lifted vertically to remove it. So far, I have not had to do this, but I planned for it when I designed it.

I'll look into the irrigation tubes, not sure of exactly what they are, but it's a google away, but for the time being, i plan to hide it behind a tree, i've got a hole started to bury it, and yes, that weight would be a big problem in the future with sponge type media. I'll also probably install some type of handles on the side before i bury it.
 

DrCase

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You realy need a drain valve on the barrel...for cleaning...dont make it a chore
 

BlakeA

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DrCase said:
You realy need a drain valve on the barrel...for cleaning...dont make it a chore

How would i go about doing this with it buried undergroud? Run a pipe or hose from it, underground leading somewhere into the woods? and just put a valve on it out there? My pond is about 20 feet from the edge of alot of woods, so that could work unless you have a better way.
 

koiguy1969

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thats one of the reasons i used the stock tank.. i set it 2' back from ponds edges. built the waterfall and piled dirt and rocks around it, its 70 gallons,it works fantastic and it stands 26" high, my drain valve is right there and it couldnt be easier to hide. because i dont have any where to hide a 55 gallon drum, or two..
 

DrCase

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If you have a place in the woods to run it that would be good,,I would run a 2" pipe and put a 2" ball valve on the end of it....You dont want it to stop up with the drain being to small
 

DrDave

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The irrigation tubing comes in 100 to 500' rolls. It is very inexpensive. I used a paper cutter and had my yard guy whack off 7000 pieces an inch and half long. It took him about 2 hours to do it.

The 55 gallon drum is high enough to get good seperation of solids from the water and allow them to settle in the bottom chamber where your dump valve is. With the added height, you get a realy good flush when opened.
 

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