Hi and hope you can offer some advice.


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I moved in the wall thinking you had 24" if it's only 18 then i would push the wall back out to the edge and get as close to 24" as you can . fpr 24" just two pipes
 
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but yes to the openings creating more falls or even just a trickle here and the for some crazy moss to grow and someof those orcids etc
 
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that was a joke though i am a builder just not of ponds only my own
 
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The bigger you can make the bog the more the bog will work for you
 
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So to be clear the bottom step is 12 inches for about half way then goes wider, the top step is 24 inches and also goes wider but not all the way.
 
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but with that shelf i would also build a =negative edge it skims the surface and removes dust and leaves before they can sink at least most of them
 
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i moved the wall in due to the shelf only 12" and a 8 or 6" cinderblock left more of a trap then a channel for a bog but if it gets wider then maybe it is worth using this area as well
 
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with the bog the only work is ripping out plants as they over grow the area but can it ever make for a focal point
hell you can have banana plants huge canna so many exotics
 
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Yup now planning, am also rectifing my courtyard pond first. Same contractor and way to shallow. So now we are raising the depth and installing viewing windows. I am not a builder but trying to do a good job haha. After courtyard is finished then we move to outside.
 
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Send a airline ticket and well get you squared away
 
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Hahaha we will try our best. Once my courtyard pond is finally finished I will post pics. We are raising the height to increase depth, then putting veiwing windows around it. It isn't much to raise it only about 2feet but for me I have had to learn to lay bricks, plaster cement, and fibreglass. Then someone will come and install the windows.
 

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brokensword

...and not every pond in Michigan has a loon!
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Thank you, but now not so nice. Another month should be close. I am retired and do a bit each day haha. Not as young as I would like to be.
you're going to have problems with your new wall if all you have is 4" of plastered brick. Brick are designed for compression, NOT sheer strength, which is what your water is going to exert on that wall. Minimum wall thickness, imo, should be 8", solidly filled concrete blocks with wire between courses and/or rebar every other hole. You want this wall to be unified.

There's also much engineering involved with putting in viewing windows; you're going to need something like a frame to hold each, and the thickness has to be calculated to again, withstand the force of the water. You don't want to have a collapse.

And to respond to the pea gravel/white stone you pictured; you want ONLY round edged stone because it will not compact. It will remain open between stones, as long as you don't force large organics up through that might clog between the stones. Do NOT use those white stones, you will be sorry very much sooner than later. Ever try digging sharp edged stone, which you'll have to do to fix the future problem of clogged bog stone? Especially when it's settled/compacted with debris? Sorry isn't even close to that experience.
 
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you're going to have problems with your new wall if all you have is 4" of plastered brick. Brick are designed for compression, NOT sheer strength, which is what your water is going to exert on that wall. Minimum wall thickness, imo, should be 8", solidly filled concrete blocks with wire between courses and/or rebar every other hole. You want this wall to be unified.

There's also much engineering involved with putting in viewing windows; you're going to need something like a frame to hold each, and the thickness has to be calculated to again, withstand the force of the water. You don't want to have a collapse.

And to respond to the pea gravel/white stone you pictured; you want ONLY round edged stone because it will not compact. It will remain open between stones, as long as you don't force large organics up through that might clog between the stones. Do NOT use those white stones, you will be sorry very much sooner than later. Ever try digging sharp edged stone, which you'll have to do to fix the future problem of clogged bog stone? Especially when it's settled/compacted with debris? Sorry isn't even close to that experience.
Many thanks for your input, as for the stones yes someone has already pointed out the need for round stones. Now I am trying to source here.
As for the other pond yes I was advised by other 2 guys one that has a plywood pond deeper than mine lined with fibreglass and another had a brick pond lined with fibreglass. Both suggested that as I am not raising the height very high and I will also line the whole pond with fibreglass it would be ok, however I also have some concerns, but until I joined this forum I had no ideas. I have found a company here in Malaysia that do pond windows and large scale aquariums and they will make the frames and fit the windows so that I hope solves that issue. As for the brick work well I do not know what to do yet I may well knock it back down and rebuild with bigger wider blocks as you have suggested.
 

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