How do I kill this Algae!?

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I'm new to Koi Ponds last year and now I'm having one heck of a time with this algae.

I went ahead and shot a video the other of my yard and included the Koi Pond in the walk around.

In the description of the video there are shortcut links to the sections of the video that is the Koi Pond (in case you don't want to watch the whole thing).

I'm open to all suggestions and ideas, I'm hoping to really do some good work on this over the weekend as we are supposed to be getting some 70+ degree weather.

Cheers,

Wayne, SC


 
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Ok, so this is "clear" water? I'll shoot a better video and have you all take a look at it.
It just seems that there should be a way to keep this from taking over this summer....that's mainly what I'm worried about.
Last summer it was so thick that you could hardly see the bottom of the pond.

Thanks,

Wayne, SC
 

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You have lots of projects you are working on Wayne. Are you having problems w/ string algae or floating tiny algae or are you worried about algae attached like a short carpet on your pond sides and bottom? If its on the sides and bottom that is the good stuff and you want to leave that. If its string algae then I use kitty litter the 100% clay kind from wal-mart put in mesh bags under/into moving water. If its the free floating stuff isn't your UV light supposed to kill that off?

Our garden guy here on the radio/tv says for clay soils here in the PNW:
Improve the soil. Adding organic matter to soil boosts its moisture-holding abilities. Even the heavy clay soils that many of us garden in will retain water more efficiently for root growth if they are improved with organic soil amendments. Compost - chopped leaves, shredded fir bark, hay, manure, grass clippings - should be tilled into the soil in fall and left to ``settle in'' over the winter. If you use sawdust or other nitrogen-robbing materials, remember to add nitrogen to the soil. Home gardeners should consider adding 1 pound of nitrogen per 25 square feet of mulch, or consulting a mulch supplier.

Here's another article about clay from our friends in Oregon:

When you walk about your yard on a wet day, do your shoes stick in the mud? Could you make ceramic pots out of the soil in your garden? Odds are you have clay soil, one of the biggest challenges to the home gardener.
Finely-textured clay soils are difficult to work up and develop into a good seed bed. If the clay is dry, it tends to be very hard and lumpy. If it is wet, it tends to be very sticky and difficult to manipulate.
The best way to improve clay soils is to mix organic materials thoroughly with existing soil, explained Ann Marie VanderZanden, Master Gardener coordinator for the Oregon State University Extension Service.
Bark, sawdust, manure, leaf mold, compost and peat moss are among the organic amendments commonly used to improve clay soil. Two or three inches of organic materials should be spread and rototilled, forked or dug into the top six or seven inches of your garden beds.
Sand can help make clay soils more workable, but it should be added only after the addition of organic matter, or a cement-like mixture may result. Two inches of sand along with two inches of organic matter will further improve the texture of clay soils.
When a large amount of organic material is added to the soil, microorganisms multiply rapidly. Since they construct their bodies from the same nutrients that plants use, soil nutrients can be relatively unavailable for a time after an addition of manure or compost. This condition may persist until the organic material is broken down and nutrients are released.
To overcome the temporary lack of nutrients, VanderZanden suggests adding organic material to the soil in the autumn, or smaller amounts at a time in the spring, when warm weather will hasten break down. You can also sprinkle in some fertilizer, such as ammonium sulfate at the time of tilling to give an immediate source of nutrients.
The regular addition of organic material can raise the soil nutrient level to a point where the need for synthetic fertilizers may be greatly reduced or eliminated, explained VanderZanden.
"Fertile soil with good tilth does not come about with a single or even several additions of organic material, but from a consistent soil-building program," she said.
Organic matter in soil serves as food for earthworms, insects, bacteria and fungi - they transform it to soil nutrients and humus. Through this decomposition process, materials are made available as foods to growing plants. In finely-textured clay soils, organic material creates aggregates of the soil particles, improving drainage and making it easier to work.
Author: Carol Savonen
Source: Ann Marie VanderZanden
 
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UV is 100% effective against green water. Everything else is maybe, might, sometimes. The UV can often be switched off once you have other algae (string and other macro algae) growing, but that's hit and miss.

For many people the definition of "clear" pond is being able to see the bottom. To take water to the next level of clear normally means keeping the bottom very clean all the time to reduce suspended decomposed matter and also serious mechanical filters like bottom drains, sieves, sand & gravel, etc. Taking it to that next step gets pretty involved.

To me clay is one of the required ingredients for good soil. Add one part sand and one part organic and you have good soil. Each year it just gets better and better. Unlike in CA, FL and NY here in AZ I like a bit more clay, so here I'm more like 50% clay, 25% sand, 25% organic. And for natives of course just straight clay. Clay keeps water better. In summer here a pot with standard potting mix needs to be watered 2-3 times per day while 50% is once per day and 100% clay is once every couple of days. I also tweak the mix for the plants.

Here in Phoenix we have a couple of good sources for free organic matter. There are a couple of horse stables that give away bedding/manure. Often it is already fairly decomposed as they store it for a bit. The other source are tree trimming companies that grind trimmings. Not everyone like likes wood chips but I do at least for most plants. In both cases they advertise on CL and also our local permaculture group website.

Seems like you and I have many ideas in common. Aquaponics, solar heating, supplies from CL, etc.
 
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Algae is a plant, it likes fertile water and thrives in cooler waters before other plants can get going

A koi pond is a fertile bowl for algae to thrive in, just for good measure let the koi constantly stir up sediments to further increase turbidity

Personally I prefer crystal clear water, low fish density, never shoveling in excess fish food and to hog the ponds fertility, so no algae could even think about a cats chance, lots, lots of picturesque plants I'd sooner look at like waterlilies, iris, marginals, floaters...
 
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Thank You all for the detailed feedback!

Here is a better look at just the Koi Pond...I filmed this video on Friday the 15th and then on Sunday my GF and I put allot of work into doing some cleaning.

j.w - The only thing that I have running into my filter is the pump on the one end, I don't have a skimmer so...that means more work with a hand net I know. I'm worried about the 2" think carpet on the bottom and the algae growing off of the plant pots and plants the most. I think the small algae on the walls (see video) is what you're referring to as being "the good stuff"? As far as the garden, I did mix in quite a bit of organic matter before the winder and you can see the condition...I guess it's just going to take allot more huh!? :)

Waterbug - I'm not sure the %'s of the soil here in SC. Frankly, I'm just getting a handle of the red ants and carpenter bees! :) But in all seriousness, aquaponics/hydroponics just seems so much easier and more effective than dealing with the poor quality dirt and as an added benefit, I never have to weed.....I'll take that any day. I put an add up on Craigslist today looking for Manure, we'll see what comes of it.

adavisus - I'm like you, I like perfectly clear water and no dirt in the bottom so (see new video) this pond is really bothering me. I've ordered some barley, will be getting more/larger fish, and may need to add a jet under water to circulate the bottom water...??

Thanks Ya'll for the feedback so far!

Wayne, SC
 
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Hi there,

I don’t keep koi, just goldfish.

It has always been my understanding for healthy water you want to turn it over at least once each hour, my supplier always told me to double that, so for a 500 gallon pond you would want a 1,000GPH pump minimum. Don’t forget your pump will lose strength with every bend and elevation up to your waterfall.

Plants, plants, plants. You mentioned on the video that you only took half the plants when you bought the pond, I would add more. There are more knowledgeable plant people on here than me to help you with that.

From my own experience it will take a few years for the plants to establish, as they establish, the water will establish.

Keep taking pictures and videos :razz:
 
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First of all Wayne, welcome to the group:) Love the little pond, and Craiglist is awsome!!! My opinion is your algae is an easy fix, and you will likely get the same (or similar) advice repeated ... I would add a UV if you dont already have one and some super fine filter media. I am having a brain cramp... several folks here use I think theyve said quilt batting..,, I just buy a cheap $5 bed pillow (100% poly) and either stick it in the last chamber of the filter, or a bucket/basket where the water returns to the pond. If using pillow stuffing, it is super cheap, so just replace it daily ... you dont need a huge amount. Maybe enough to stuff a gallon ziplock bag... take a scrub brush or a broom to loosen anything attached, and let the filter grab it. Once you get plants going in the pond, they will compete for the nutrients the algae needs and should self resolve from there.
 

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Here are a few photos on using the quilt batting in my ponds Wayne as CW explained above. It really helps in getting a lot of that floating stuff outta your pond and yes do get lots more plants too to suck up the nutrients that the algae are eating up to grow.

IMG_1612.JPG


IMG_1824.JPG

IMG_1765.JPG

IMG_1858.JPG
 
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Event Horizon said:
Hi there,

I don’t keep koi, just goldfish.

It has always been my understanding for healthy water you want to turn it over at least once each hour, my supplier always told me to double that, so for a 500 gallon pond you would want a 1,000GPH pump minimum. Don’t forget your pump will lose strength with every bend and elevation up to your waterfall.

Plants, plants, plants. You mentioned on the video that you only took half the plants when you bought the pond, I would add more. There are more knowledgeable plant people on here than me to help you with that.

From my own experience it will take a few years for the plants to establish, as they establish, the water will establish.

Keep taking pictures and videos :razz:
Event Horizon - Thanks for all the feedback here, I will keep taking videos...can't wait to show you the vacuum working! I don't think that the pump that I have is large enough, I can't remember (it's dark right now) how bit it is but my pond is 1,100 gallon or so. I think my pump is a 1,200 gph pump. Maybe I can just add another type...possibly a skimmer? I will be getting some more Koi and Plants soon...hopefully. Cheers!



capewind said:
First of all Wayne, welcome to the group:) Love the little pond, and Craiglist is awsome!!! My opinion is your algae is an easy fix, and you will likely get the same (or similar) advice repeated ... I would add a UV if you dont already have one and some super fine filter media. I am having a brain cramp... several folks here use I think theyve said quilt batting..,, I just buy a cheap $5 bed pillow (100% poly) and either stick it in the last chamber of the filter, or a bucket/basket where the water returns to the pond. If using pillow stuffing, it is super cheap, so just replace it daily ... you dont need a huge amount. Maybe enough to stuff a gallon ziplock bag... take a scrub brush or a broom to loosen anything attached, and let the filter grab it. Once you get plants going in the pond, they will compete for the nutrients the algae needs and should self resolve from there.
Capewind - UV light is already added and running 24/7. I don't have any super fine filter media but there is more room in the filter canister if I want to add it there and keep it hidden! Good or bad Idea??? Plants and Koi coming soon!


j.w said:
Here are a few photos on using the quilt batting in my ponds Wayne as CW explained above. It really helps in getting a lot of that floating stuff outta your pond and yes do get lots more plants too to suck up the nutrients that the algae are eating up to grow.

attachicon.gif
IMG_1612.JPG


attachicon.gif
IMG_1824.JPG

attachicon.gif
IMG_1765.JPG

attachicon.gif
IMG_1858.JPG
Thank you for the pics, this really helps!
I'm definitely a picture and video learner.
BTW, B - E - A - UTIFUL pond, Nice work!

Wayne, SC
 
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With the video I understand. What you have is very normal.

Thousands of algae species. They come and go, most ponds will have several species at the same time. Different species complete with each other including chemical warfare. As things change different species can gain an advantage and kill another species.

Most algae species cannot survive for very long in a pond, say a few months. There's always another species waiting to take advantage of whatever state a pond is in. In new ponds this cycle can be sped up because the pond changes state a lot, so each species of algae comes and goes faster.

The state you have in the video is the result of one or more species of macro algae having died off. It can appear alive, and to some degree it is, just like any plant, death is more relative than it is for animals.

You can vacuum out the dead stuff as much as you like. This can be as complex as emptying the pond and shop vac out everything and scrubbing, chemicals, as far as you want to go. Or you can keep the water in the pond and use another type of vacuum. Or you can just use a net to scoop out a lot of the dead stuff. Or you can go to the other extreme and leave the muck to have a Wildlife Pond which is whatever nature decides to give you. Point is there is no right or wrong way, just whatever way you prefer.

Except for using chemicals there is no way to prevent future algae any more than there's a way to stop weed from sprouting in a garden. Like weed seeds algae is everywhere only more so.

There are however endless wild ideas on how algae can be stopped. From magnets to anything with the word "barley". All of these have one thing in common, 6-8 weeks for them to work. Pretty good bet any species of algae will decline in that period. It's like a cure for the common cold that takes 10-14 days to work.

Most of the "cures" out there are pretty harmless and not too expensive so no great harm. But if you really want to get serious about algae control it's really pretty simple, but work. No different than a garden or lawn. When macro algae is growing you pull it out.

Whoever told you doing this released spores so you'd get more algae is an idiot of such monumental proportions that other idiots would be embarrassed. Algae can reproduce just fine all by itself thank you very much. Pretty sure they don't rely on humans to reproduce. While it is true broken bits of algae can root and grow it makes zero difference since the algae is going to fill the pond on its own.

When pulling algae is done you will see a problem with potted plants in the pond. It's a pain when the algae is all wrapped around the plants. My solution was to place plants in their own beds around the edge of the pond or even out in the pond. Keep the water these beds below the "soil" surface so there is no standing water and therefore no algae in the plants. Makes pulling algae way easier.

All marginal type plants also do much better when not submerged. Many plants are sold saying something like 6-12" deep. That's the maximum depth which many people take to mean the required depth. Water lily has to be submerged, and there are floaters and some plants have to be fully submerged. But marginals...above the water is better.

The more you can dismiss crappy info the easier it all gets. Otherwise the "cures" are endless. More are made up everyday.
 
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divedaddy03 said:
Capewind - UV light is already added and running 24/7. I don't have any super fine filter media but there is more room in the filter canister if I want to add it there and keep it hidden! Good or bad Idea??? Plants and Koi coming soon!
It really isnt a concern to keep it hidden, as you are not going to need it all that long. Either the quilt batting or a cheap pillow is all you need... the fine fibers will catch the algae and other tiny particles... I know a $5 pillow offers a LOT of fine fiber material... so like I said, dont bother rinsing, just replace it daily. No chemicals or major work on your part, and you WILL see improvements pretty fast. When I say fast, I mean a noticable improvement within 12-24 hours... Depending on your flow rate, you may be crystal clear in less than a few days.

JW posted much prettier pictures, but here is a picture of something hubby slapped together for a 600 gallon pond hubby put in the basement this fall for plants. Ended up with a lot of DIRT in the pond, so used spare parts to slap together a homemade filter. It is very ugly, but effective. I was adding baby fish too, so water quality was important. The "stuff" the water is flowing out of the tote, onto, is pillow stuffing. It "was" off white in color before going in.

DSCN5513_zps3bf9a3df.jpg


and this is what the pond looked like when the plants just went in to give you an idea of what the pond is ...

Oct142012_zps18064069.jpg


You really wont be doing your pond any favors in using chemicals, barley. etc...
 
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capewind said:
It really isnt a concern to keep it hidden, as you are not going to need it all that long. Either the quilt batting or a cheap pillow is all you need... the fine fibers will catch the algae and other tiny particles... I know a $5 pillow offers a LOT of fine fiber material... so like I said, dont bother rinsing, just replace it daily. No chemicals or major work on your part, and you WILL see improvements pretty fast. When I say fast, I mean a noticable improvement within 12-24 hours... Depending on your flow rate, you may be crystal clear in less than a few days.

JW posted much prettier pictures, but here is a picture of something hubby slapped together for a 600 gallon pond hubby put in the basement this fall for plants. Ended up with a lot of DIRT in the pond, so used spare parts to slap together a homemade filter. It is very ugly, but effective. I was adding baby fish too, so water quality was important. The "stuff" the water is flowing out of the tote, onto, is pillow stuffing. It "was" off white in color before going in.



and this is what the pond looked like when the plants just went in to give you an idea of what the pond is ...



You really wont be doing your pond any favors in using chemicals, barley. etc...
Ok, thanks for the pictures, this is really helpful!
Like I said previously, the barley is already ordered (Christina thinks she can defend the decision to put in barley and I've learned to keep my mouth shut... :O) and this weekend I did about a 25% water change and it's looking very nice.
I also took your suggestions and put quilt batting under the waterfall (pics to come) and it's working just as you said it would...not I need to make a more permanent holder that I can slip on and off as needed...will post some pics/maybe a video of that when I get it working.
This weekend I was also able to modify and use my DIY Airlift Pond Vacuum. Here is a video, make sure you watch to the end as there is a good pic of my pond with the vacuum (video here -
).
Overall, things are starting to shape up nicely, and I'm looking forward to adding my fish once the water warms up!!!! Whoot.
Oh, here is another video as well....it's the filter setup that I'm using.




Waterbug said:
With the video I understand. What you have is very normal.

Thousands of algae species. They come and go, most ponds will have several species at the same time. Different species complete with each other including chemical warfare. As things change different species can gain an advantage and kill another species.

Most algae species cannot survive for very long in a pond, say a few months. There's always another species waiting to take advantage of whatever state a pond is in. In new ponds this cycle can be sped up because the pond changes state a lot, so each species of algae comes and goes faster.

The state you have in the video is the result of one or more species of macro algae having died off. It can appear alive, and to some degree it is, just like any plant, death is more relative than it is for animals.

You can vacuum out the dead stuff as much as you like. This can be as complex as emptying the pond and shop vac out everything and scrubbing, chemicals, as far as you want to go. Or you can keep the water in the pond and use another type of vacuum. Or you can just use a net to scoop out a lot of the dead stuff. Or you can go to the other extreme and leave the muck to have a Wildlife Pond which is whatever nature decides to give you. Point is there is no right or wrong way, just whatever way you prefer.

Except for using chemicals there is no way to prevent future algae any more than there's a way to stop weed from sprouting in a garden. Like weed seeds algae is everywhere only more so.

There are however endless wild ideas on how algae can be stopped. From magnets to anything with the word "barley". All of these have one thing in common, 6-8 weeks for them to work. Pretty good bet any species of algae will decline in that period. It's like a cure for the common cold that takes 10-14 days to work.

Most of the "cures" out there are pretty harmless and not too expensive so no great harm. But if you really want to get serious about algae control it's really pretty simple, but work. No different than a garden or lawn. When macro algae is growing you pull it out.

Whoever told you doing this released spores so you'd get more algae is an idiot of such monumental proportions that other idiots would be embarrassed. Algae can reproduce just fine all by itself thank you very much. Pretty sure they don't rely on humans to reproduce. While it is true broken bits of algae can root and grow it makes zero difference since the algae is going to fill the pond on its own.

When pulling algae is done you will see a problem with potted plants in the pond. It's a pain when the algae is all wrapped around the plants. My solution was to place plants in their own beds around the edge of the pond or even out in the pond. Keep the water these beds below the "soil" surface so there is no standing water and therefore no algae in the plants. Makes pulling algae way easier.

All marginal type plants also do much better when not submerged. Many plants are sold saying something like 6-12" deep. That's the maximum depth which many people take to mean the required depth. Water lily has to be submerged, and there are floaters and some plants have to be fully submerged. But marginals...above the water is better.

The more you can dismiss crappy info the easier it all gets. Otherwise the "cures" are endless. More are made up everyday.
I see what you're saying....as I noted above, the baerly isn't really my idea and so I'm just running with it (I've learned not to argue on some things...hehe).

As for cleaning out my pond, I've been scooping it out with a pool net and using my Airlift Pond Vacuum (video here -
).

I'm really intersted in what you are saying about planting outside of the water, do you have some examples (maybe some pics or video) that I can use to learn more about what you are talking about?
I agree, this should really cut back on the time it takes to clean...maybe you would me meaning a plant like an elephant ear plant that can be in soil or swamp type of a setting?

Cutting out the crappy info is why I'm here, thanks for your feedback!

Wayne, SC
 

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barley i found is messy and all you get from it is peroxide ask waterbug .I have been using peroxide for years and never knew I just side stepped a messy project I did not need .I soak my filters and my lava rock in it and water and it works great .I just never knew that it was a by product of barley ,I turn my pump off and spray my rocks on my water falls and wait and turn them back on and it turns white aand pump sucks it into the filter .I also scrub a little with a dollar store toilet bowl brush .I'm a cheapo :razz:
 

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