I need help and suggestions!

[sissy]

are you sure they really tested it ,because when I get mine tested they do a whole print out of all the tests they performed I never just got your waters fine .They explain each test and comment if they are low or high and whats great they do not force you to buy what you need ,they just tell you what you can do and help you figure it all out

 

[mgeez]

are you sure they really tested it ,because when I get mine tested they do a whole print out of all the tests they performed I never just got your waters fine .They explain each test and comment if they are low or high and whats great they do not force you to buy what you need ,they just tell you what you can do and help you figure it all out

hmmmm, its quite obvious I need to find a more reputable place for water tests!
What water tests should I look for that would show unfavorable plant growth conditions?
mark

 

[sissy]

they do a whole list kh ph salt alkalinity nitrate nitrite amonia ,gh .Salt I found was the biggest culprit of plants dieing .I take mine to a local pet store drop it off and go back to pick it up .I usually have to take 4 samples even ones from my filters to see if there is enough bacteria .I have to make sure the bottles they gave me are mine .they double check but they at least make sure everything is right .local pet shops I found were better .the test is usually 3to 5 dollars and is better than the test I can do . I still have my own test kits but you never know they all read different

 

[mgeez]

Thanks Sissy, I found a huge pet store in my area that does water tests for ponds. I will be there tonight!
mark

 

[mgeez]

they do a whole list kh ph salt alkalinity nitrate nitrite amonia ,gh .Salt I found was the biggest culprit of plants dieing .I take mine to a local pet store drop it off and go back to pick it up .I usually have to take 4 samples even ones from my filters to see if there is enough bacteria .I have to make sure the bottles they gave me are mine .they double check but they at least make sure everything is right .local pet shops I found were better .the test is usually 3to 5 dollars and is better than the test I can do . I still have my own test kits but you never know they all read different

No, i have not introdced any salt to the pond to date. My water is straight from the well. We have had extensive drinking water tests done by a local lab and all of there readings were acceptable as far as drinking quality is concerned.
mark

 

[sissy]

my water is straight from the well also but the fish if you have koi especially need salt as a slime coat protector .I'm glad you found was as the really good test kits are really expensive and make sure they give you a written report or printed out one and keep them handy for your reference .I keep mine in a binder including your own home tests oh and thank you for the thank and your very welcome glad I could help you

 

[mgeez]

I decided thia A.M. that I can't wait till next year to solve my poor filter design. I was at TSC at lunch measuring a 150 gal rubbermaid tank. I have been studying DIY plans in that forum. I have PM'd koiguy and he still makes weirs. I will install flush drains and correct my piping. I will eventually use my existing 100 gal tank as a pre-filter/sediment trap. I am hoping this, along with the new 130w UV light, will "clear" things up and get me off to a better start than last year.
Mark

 

[sissy]

good luck I did not use a weir on mine just a tank adapter for the water to come out to the waterfall with elbows and black abs piping ..Air in a pond seems to help water also that is why I have been checking ebay to find a new one .I have never used a uv because it should be connected after the filter so it does not kill good bacteria and the water has to run through the uv slow to be really effective .Tried one one time but never did anything and went back to quilt batting and lava (I know some do not like lava rock but it works for me )

 

[koiguy1969]

sissy..good bacteria isnt free floating it colonizes hard surfaces. so if you add bacteria you turn off your U.V for 48 hours to allow time for it to settle in...but, that said i run my U.V 7 - 10 days in the spring. it takes about 3 days or so to clear then i let it run a few extra days.. then its job is done for the season. as far as the bad bacteria that does free float, killing it is a good thing. and i run a small 9 watt tetrapond U.V, and it is before my filter. as i use a weir. the weirs is actually more efficient at aeration in the pond, and aestetically pleasing as a waterfall. a sheet of water cuts more waters surface and penetrates deep in the water carrying plenty of air bubbles
side note...a 130 watt U.V will kill algeas, bad bacterias. and many parasites as well.

 

[mgeez]

good luck I did not use a weir on mine just a tank adapter for the water to come out to the waterfall with elbows and black abs piping ..Air in a pond seems to help water also that is why I have been checking ebay to find a new one .I have never used a uv because it should be connected after the filter so it does not kill good bacteria and the water has to run through the uv slow to be really effective .Tried one one time but never did anything and went back to quilt batting and lava (I know some do not like lava rock but it works for me )

I have no choice but to use a weir with my setup. I cleaned the 250# lava rock on Monday, what a job and mess! I am going to use my 3 cu ft of pvc shavings and add another 2 cu ft when I build my new filter. If I ever need to clean it, I can just open up may arms wide and lift the entire 5 cu ft out and power wash it. I assume i will have to do this every late fall, since everything freezes up in Pa. It is my understanding that the beneficial bacteria dies off in cold climates. I do have an unheated greenhouse where i put all my water plants in to overwinter. I have a makeshift pond in there that never freezes over. Maybe someone can "chime in" if they know what water temp the good bacteria can withstand. I am 100% uneducated when it come to things like this!
Mark

 

[sissy]

I know Pa winters from up there originally and cousins still live there .What you need is a clean out at the bottom of your filter .I use a power washer sometimes to make the clean out faster .not sure I should but sometimes time limits you on what you can get done in a day .The winds are howling here again today so more lost time 3 days of high winds and one day of rain .I live up on hill so makes it's even worse .lol think sometimes I need lead shoes .I get my stuff at tsc down here too .

 

[mgeez]

I know Pa winters from up there originally and cousins still live there .What you need is a clean out at the bottom of your filter .I use a power washer sometimes to make the clean out faster .not sure I should but sometimes time limits you on what you can get done in a day .The winds are howling here again today so more lost time 3 days of high winds and one day of rain .I live up on hill so makes it's even worse .lol think sometimes I need lead shoes .I get my stuff at tsc down here too .

Yes my new filter will have (2) 3" drains with (2) 2" supplies and a weir.
I don't have any choice but to pipe the uv before the filter. My filter is not a closed vessel. The only way I can figure how "ponders" pipe the uv after the filter is with a purchased closed bio filter. I have valves to adjust the flow thru the uv, although it will be a crap shoot as to how far to throttle the valves. I should hav made 2 exits, 1 from the uv light and 1 from the bypass. That way at least I would have a visual! It will eventuall "bug" me enuf to revise the piping a 3rd time.

 

[koiguy1969]

you are correct ...with a submersable pump you need a pressurized filter to run a U.V after it...your in for problems trying to gravity feed a U.V...especially on a single outlet filter.

 

[mgeez]

sissy..good bacteria isnt free floating it colonizes hard surfaces. so if you add bacteria you turn off your U.V for 48 hours to allow time for it to settle in...but, that said i run my U.V 7 - 10 days in the spring. it takes about 3 days or so to clear then i let it run a few extra days.. then its job is done for the season. as far as the bad bacteria that does free float, killing it is a good thing. and i run a small 9 watt tetrapond U.V, and it is before my filter. as i use a weir. the weirs is actually more efficient at aeration in the pond, and aestetically pleasing as a waterfall. a sheet of water cuts more waters surface and penetrates deep in the water carrying plenty of air bubbles
side note...a 130 watt U.V will kill algeas, bad bacterias. and many parasites as well.

I was told by the man that sold me the light that a 130w if run too much on my 7000 gal pond will actually make the water too clear and start killing good things. true / false?
I have no clue. My plan was to run it similar to the way you said, or when needed. The cost of those bulbs also contributed to my thinking!
mark

 

[sissy]

I see a lot of people here just divert from there pump to the uv and straight into the waterfall or right back into the pond .I should not have given up on mine but just seemed it wasn't really working on the little bit of floating algae I get found it was just easier to trap it with the quilt batting .Algae seems to be something you put up with for the little time it seems to be around.Oxygen seems to help better but finally after all these years with mine it is finally loosing it so get bigger one this time