Installing UV Clarifier


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As outlined in other posts, I have serious water clarity issues. The water is currently green. Bought and Easypro UV clarifier. The in and out "posts" are much smaller than any of my pipes. I think I read that it should have a flow rate of 300gph.

The output of my pump is already divided and I would prefer not to cut into the PVC again (and risk messing up a working system). I was thinking of getting a small submersible pump and putting it in my skimmer (with the main pump), then have a tube going to the "in" connection of the clarifier, and a tube going from the "out" connection to the pond.

Does this make sense? My only concern is the extra power load on the 15 amp circuit powering the pond. I was running a Harbor Freight pump to help clean out the small particles, and the sub panel got hot. Harbor Fright is my favorite store for some things, but I would guess that it was drawing more power then it claimed on the box (it was larger pump). I don't think a 300gph pump draws much juice.
 
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Meyer Jordan

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As outlined in other posts, I have serious water clarity issues. The water is currently green. Bought and Easypro UV clarifier. The in and out "posts" are much smaller than any of my pipes. I think I read that it should have a flow rate of 300gph.

The output of my pump is already divided and I would prefer not to cut into the PVC again (and risk messing up a working system). I was thinking of getting a small submersible pump and putting it in my skimmer (with the main pump), then have a tube going to the "in" connection of the clarifier, and a tube going from the "out" connection to the pond.

Does this make sense? My only concern is the extra power load on the 15 amp circuit powering the pond. I was running a Harbor Freight pump to help clean out the small particles, and the sub panel got hot. Harbor Fright is my favorite store for some things, but I would guess that it was drawing more power then it claimed on the box (it was larger pump). I don't think a 300gph pump draws much juice.

Using a separate pump sized to the UV is the sensible way to proceed. A 300 gph mag-drive will draw very little power as it is not an electric motor, but magnets.
 

Meyer Jordan

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I was just pulling your leg Meyers, but your inadvertent indication of a magnet driven motor reminded me of some old perpetual motion theories that were once popular. :p

There are those that still believe in such theories. There are also those that still believe that the Earth is flat.
 
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Great thanks! In my profession (Information Security/Software Development/ Hacker) there is often the elegant/cool way to solve a problem, and there is the ugly/unimpressive but much easier way to accomplish the same thing. When I was young, I would go towards the former. Since entering middle-age I chose the later.

Case in point: I was working for accompany that had a problem in which there was a network jack present in the guest conference room (this would allow visitors a way to get into the infrastructure). There were many proposals made by experts hired to solve problems like this. These all involved using advanced (and expensive) technology. When I was shown the room, I pointed to the jack and said “is that it ?” My new boss replied “yes. We just failed an audit because of that. What should we do?”

I knelt down, took out my pocket knife, and cut the wire. My boss just stared in amazement :)
 
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I would cut the pvc and add a by pass with two valves, two unions and a third valve in the center to regulate the flow to the filter. It shouldn't take more than an hour to do. Doing it that way you can regulate the flow as well as easily disconnect it in the winter.
 
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DrCase

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I added a sm uv last week , I thought about using a sm 600 gph pump , but I ended up putting in a tee and one valve


image.jpeg
 

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