Leak free seal on 1-1/2 inch kink free tubing

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Having some trouble getting a leak free seal with this 1-1/2 inch tubing. Any tips? I’m using two nice wide hose clamps for each end but feel like the hose clamps do not work as well on this ribbed tubing however that is what I was told to use.

Can I use Teflon tape on the barbed fitting? It’s extremely difficult to slide the tube onto the barb so I don’t see tape surviving.

Thanks!
F2F766DF-9E32-4AEC-8140-018FDC3DB9E3.jpeg
 
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what you're going to hear is; don't use the kinked hose. Seems anyone who uses it has these type of problems. We like to recommend 1-1/2" flex pvc, the smooth kind. Then you can use pvc fittings and the glue and primer and be sure you won't have issues like this or leaks in the future.

Now, if I HAD to use this, I'd put some silicone on the barb, shove it in, then hose clamp the h*ll out of it. Use two clamps just because. Wait 24 hours for the silicone to dry.

But seriously, I got rid of any of this type of hose and never looked back.
 
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what you're going to hear is; don't use the kinked hose. Seems anyone who uses it has these type of problems. We like to recommend 1-1/2" flex pvc, the smooth kind. Then you can use pvc fittings and the glue and primer and be sure you won't have issues like this or leaks in the future.

Now, if I HAD to use this, I'd put some silicone on the barb, shove it in, then hose clamp the h*ll out of it. Use two clamps just because. Wait 24 hours for the silicone to dry.

But seriously, I got rid of any of this type of hose and never looked back.

I originally wanted to use the flex pvc which is what those elbows are attaching to but the black inlet with the flow valve is part of a filter with no other fitting options and I was told you can’t hose clamp flex PVC to an insert barb like that. I have some good silicone so I’ll give that a try thanks.
 
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Here you go...
My experience...
That corregated "pond hose" won't last, so all that effort and money you put into it will be wasted.
I wasted time, effort and money on roll after roll of that junk. Every time it sprung a leak, I would tightly wrap rubber electrical tape around the pin holes to persuade it to last just a little longer.

I remember having the same experience you are having, trying to get that stuff to seal onto barb fittings. I wrapped rubber electrical tape (not the normal plastic type) on the barb to make up the tiny difference, then hose clamped it.
Every Spring I fought that hose onto the barbs. I don't know why it's not a standard size.

I wish I would have known about flex PVC from the start. I am confident the flex PVC will be the last hose I'll ever buy.

Now, there is a less expensive choice that some here have used with good results. Sump pump hose.
 
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Here you go...
My experience...
That corregated "pond hose" won't last, so all that effort and money you put into it will be wasted.
I wasted time, effort and money on roll after roll of that junk. Every time it sprung a leak, I would tightly wrap rubber electrical tape around the pin holes to persuade it to last just a little longer.

I remember having the same experience you are having, trying to get that stuff to seal onto barb fittings. I wrapped rubber electrical tape (not the normal plastic type) on the barb to make up the tiny difference, then hose clamped it.
Every Spring I fought that hose onto the barbs. I don't know why it's not a standard size.

I wish I would have known about flex PVC from the start. I am confident the flex PVC will be the last hose I'll ever buy.

Now, there is a less expensive choice that some here have used with good results. Sump pump hose.

The guy at the pond shop said I can’t hose clamp flex PVC to a barbed insert like the one in the picture that came with filter I’m trying to install. Is that not the case?
 
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That's correct you don't use hose clamps on schedule 40 flex PVC.
You don't use those stupid barb fittings either.
Oh, and just a note for anyone using barb fittings...be sure to cut off the smaller steps that you don't need or your output will be restricted.

Schedule 40 flex PVC is totally compatible with normal ridgid PVC pipe in all ways. You use the same primer and glue that you use for normal ridgid PVC. Just treat it like normal ridgid PVC.

I used the black version of flex PVC. It is not as noticeable as the white stuff.
Note that there are different versions of flex PVC. Some are more flexible than others. But all are compatible with the ridgid stuff. You can mix and match. Add elbows, 90's etc. anywhere you want.
 
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Oh, and you can use a PVC union or a rubber Fernco coupling in places where you dont want a permanent connection. For instance, disconnecting parts for the Winter.
 
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@Oblivious: Let's swap out your fittings so that you can use flex PVC.

What you have in your picture is a pair of PVC street elbows with barbed transition fittings attached. All you need to do is swap out those threaded barbed fittings for a threaded x slip coupling. Now you have a glue joint that will allow you to transition to flex PVC.

If you want to reduce fittings (I prefer to whenever possible as they are the leak points in any system), then you can replace what you have with an elbow with a slip join (glue joint) on one end. Then you can transition to flex in one fitting. What I can't tell is if the inside of your elbow is slip or threaded. They make both types, though, so easy enough to find.

Oh, and like @poconojoe said, if you'll need this joint to be disassembled at times, you can use a union fitting.

If all this plumbing talk is over your head—I know it can be confusing—just take what you have to any decent hardware store and tell them you want a pvc union fitting.
 
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That's correct you don't use hose clamps on schedule 40 flex PVC.
You don't use those stupid barb fittings either.
Oh, and just a note for anyone using barb fittings...be sure to cut off the smaller steps that you don't need or your output will be restricted.

Schedule 40 flex PVC is totally compatible with normal ridgid PVC pipe in all ways. You use the same primer and glue that you use for normal ridgid PVC. Just treat it like normal ridgid PVC.

I used the black version of flex PVC. It is not as noticeable as the white stuff.
Note that there are different versions of flex PVC. Some are more flexible than others. But all are compatible with the ridgid stuff. You can mix and match. Add elbows, 90's etc. anywhere you want.
See that’s the problem. I’m adding a filter to a flex pvc line but the filter in and out has the barb. Pretty sure every bio press filter that I’ve looked at uses a barb.
 
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See that’s the problem. I’m adding a filter to a flex pvc line but the filter in and out has the barb. Pretty sure every bio press filter that I’ve looked at uses a barb.
Those barbed fittings are just threaded couplings. Just unscrew them and screw on whatever you want.
 
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Those barbed fittings are just threaded couplings. Just unscrew them and screw on whatever you want.
Assuming that the Chinese company they makes the filter used threads that are compatible with a pvc union fitting. I guess I’ll have to check.
 
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@Oblivious: Let's swap out your fittings so that you can use flex PVC.

What you have in your picture is a pair of PVC street elbows with barbed transition fittings attached. All you need to do is swap out those threaded barbed fittings for a threaded x slip coupling. Now you have a glue joint that will allow you to transition to flex PVC.

If you want to reduce fittings (I prefer to whenever possible as they are the leak points in any system), then you can replace what you have with an elbow with a slip join (glue joint) on one end. Then you can transition to flex in one fitting. What I can't tell is if the inside of your elbow is slip or threaded. They make both types, though, so easy enough to find.

Oh, and like @poconojoe said, if you'll need this joint to be disassembled at times, you can use a union fitting.

If all this plumbing talk is over your head—I know it can be confusing—just take what you have to any decent hardware store and tell them you want a pvc union fitting.

If the PVC union fittings threads are compatible with the Chinese made filter that would be perfect.
 
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The two pressure filters I used to own both came with barb fittings. I unscrewed them and screwed on PVC threaded couplings.
I did the same exact thing with my swimming pool filter, skimmer, chlorinator and heater.
Yes, sometimes the threads are not compatible. I guess I've been lucky. But with all the parts and fittings available in the world of plumbing and electrical, you should be able to find some way to adapt it. Maybe bring what you have to a plumbing supply house.
 
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I have found on occasion that there is no easy way to remove the barbed fitting, for example I use a secondary small waterfall that came with a fitting that is not removable and it has a barbed fitting. What would i do there if i wanted to connect to flex PVC?
Or should i just go from barbed to corrugated hose to slip/threaded connection fitting?
That i think perhaps what the OP is asking.
 
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I have found on occasion that there is no easy way to remove the barbed fitting, for example I use a secondary small waterfall that came with a fitting that is not removable and it has a barbed fitting. What would i do there if i wanted to connect to flex PVC?
Or should i just go from barbed to corrugated hose to slip/threaded connection fitting?
That i think perhaps what the OP is asking.
If you go that route, I would skip the corrugated hose and get the appropriate size reinforced clear tubing you can find on big rolls in big box stores or hardware stores. They cut and sell it by the foot. The reinforced ones have some sort of fibers that you can see. The non-reinforced is just clear. That tubing is very durable.
 

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