My attempt at 55G filter


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I decided to start work on filter for next spring on my new 3000G pond. I found it helpful to see pictures off builds on the filters and parts list on the forum here.

Not done yet but thought I would post my parts list and how I've put it together so far, everything except the 55G drum came from Home Depot. I found pictures were helpful to see how others built there drum filters.

1 x 55G (food grade drum $25cdn)
2 x 2" shower drain that came with gasget, threaded plastic nut and grating which removes $7cdn bought
2 x some 2" to 1.5" adaptors
2 x 1.5" pvc insert to female 1.5" thread
2 x 1.5" male threaded to 1.5" hose attachment (not sure what to call this)

picture of shower drain pieces
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picture of pvc attachments I used to connect shower drain to 1.5" pond hose attachment
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male 1.5" pvc attachment for pond house attachment
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what it all looks like connected
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I hope it all works when I'm done.

here's the drain with grating snapped on. I will use the grating on the outflow to prevent it from any possible blockage.
DSC02967.jpg


Pic showing how it connect into the drain
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I siliconed all the pieces together and let it dry.
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I used a plumbers torch (propane bottle and nozzle) to heat up the plastic and get a good flat surface for a seal and the gaskets. Read this idea on the site and this step is very neccassary as the round barrel won't provide flat surface. Worked well and heated it up and put the drain in and pushed hard to shape the plastic flat for a good seal.

DSC02969.jpg
 
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pic of the top of the barrel cut off and holes drilled, will use this to hold bio media down under water (got this great idea from another thread on this site)
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I drilled out 2 holes in the barrel and used a metal grinding bit to get a perfect hole no bigger than the 2" drain. I used a sawsall to cut the lead off and drill bits for making big holes in wood/plastic for the lid.

I used pond liner for a 2nd gasket on the inside and the thick gasket that came with the drains on the outside. Then used silicone (GE I brand) to cover all gaskets, and surfaces. then threaded on the plastic nut and tightened as best I could.

Haven't done the water test yet but should be good (fingers crossed) since I used a lot of Silicone.
DSC02974.jpg


Still need to add plumbing to the inside (not done yet).

I went with a bottom fed drum since I want to avoid GPH loss from the head height to get water in the top of the barrel. I can't dig a hole for the barrel. I figure I can get max 8" head from 2500GPH pump to keep the flow rate up. I plan on diverting some GPH to the water fall.
 

DrDave

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Good start. The bottom feed does not matter if you plumb it through the top or the bottom, you will get the same results. make sure you have a 2" dump valve in the bottom for flushing.
 
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My thinking was plumbed through the top of the barrel which is 4' high means I loose GPH from the 4' raise to the top of the barrel. If I bottom feed it then I don't loose much pressure.

Since I bottom fed it I was thinking of plumbing a dump valve off the bottom feed as in inline dump valve. I can test this out and see how that works. If I don't like the performance I can put in another 2" drain since it was $7.

Next is the bio media and I see many options here but don't need to buy anything until the spring, so lot's of time to research options.
 

DrDave

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newday3000 said:
My thinking was plumbed through the top of the barrel which is 4' high means I loose GPH from the 4' raise to the top of the barrel. If I bottom feed it then I don't loose much pressure.

Since I bottom fed it I was thinking of plumbing a dump valve off the bottom feed as in inline dump valve. I can test this out and see how that works. If I don't like the performance I can put in another 2" drain since it was $7.

Next is the bio media and I see many options here but don't need to buy anything until the spring, so lot's of time to research options.

The head is calculated from the top of the water, not the positioning of the plumbing. Atmospheric pressure on the water surface is what determines it.
 
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i did not put a bottom drain in mine but opted for a quick connect fitting on the 1 1/2" inlet. When I want to flush I disconect from the pump and hook it up to a gas power 3" trash pump I have and suck it out.
 

koiguy1969

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make sure to use a check valve on the bottom inlet hose to prevent back washing into the pond if power is ever lost to the pump.
 
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drdave, good point on the plumbing versus head. Not sure why I thought plumbing to the bottom would avoid head but now realize the pump needs to push water vertically to get it out the top outflow. oh well, might look at dedicated pump for the water fall.

thanks koiguy I will go pick up a check valve, forgot about that.

I will test out an inline dump valve to see how works. Need to go get smooth pond hose and some clamps. Still have some time before snow, and ice show up.
 

DrCase

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You doing a nice job on the build..newday
Some times trying to get more bang out of your pump leads to other potential problems
 
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Its the additional weight of the water column that will work against you when figuring head height. For instance if you have your pump in your pond and your pumping up water to a water fall wier 8 feet above the pump through 2" tubing, the weight of the water in the 2" tubing will apply backpressure to the pump decreasing waterflow, much like putting your finger over the end of a hose. While you might have decreased the vertical height the water has to travel, you have also greatly increased the circumferance of the pipe (from 2" to the diameter of the barrel). You also need to allow for the fact your filter medium and the amount of it adds to the backpressure as well.

That said its looking great and I am sure it will work fine. I wish I had taken pictures of my build but was in too much of a rush to get it done as I was trouble shooting a leaky pond. I am going to try something a bit different for my 5000+ gallon pond that I am getting started on. I plan on using 4 seperate 30 gallon skippy's, each with its own pump, and each will actually be placed into the pond itself and made to look like water features.
 
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DrDave

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When I first built mine, I forgot about the check valve. When I had a power failure all the gunk in the sump of the filter made it's way into the pond.
 
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small progress. got the check valve read to install with barbed ends to connect to 1 1/2" pond hose. Added a 90 degree elbow to direct water in a circular rotation in the bottom of the barrel.
 

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Did a test today (video) and the water circulation looks really good but I have a bit of a problem. The 1.5" gravity return at the top of the barrel can not drain the barrel as fast as the pump can fill it. The head height is 3' which means the pump pushing 1600GPH.

Either need to add more drains at the top or restrict the pump to less GPH. At 1600 GPH water is only contacting media for < 2 minutes which doesn't seem like enough contact time.

[ame]
 

koiguy1969

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move up to a 2" return, and slowing the flow would help your filtering out anyways..1600 gph is giving you less than 2 minutes in filtration...or better yet split the flow into 2 barrels for 800 gph per barrel and around 4 minutes in filtration.
 
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You performed your test without any filter media in the barrel it appears...this will provide some resistance to the water flow as well (depending on how much media and what type). In my case it reduced flow nearly 50%.
 
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