Need help on how to improve neglected ponds

Meyer Jordan

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This is one of the few instances that I would make this recommendation, but in the absence of fish, a 'Sludge-Busting' product would help alleviate the problem. It may well take several applications and many water changes but improvement in water clarity would eventually be realized.
 
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I have consulted two pond professionals in my city and both tell me that the type of algae I am plagued with will not be eradicated by installing a UV filter. Without going into a lengthly explanation regarding all this, I am now wondering if you forum people have any thoughts/experience with using pond dye? I plan to install lilies in another month or so, which will hopefully provide some protection from the sun. Until then, I want to do something to keep the algae from constantly reforming. I just can't continue to take on the task of constantly skimming it out!

Thoughts, please on pond dye! Reminder, I have no fish in the ponds.
 
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Here are a couple of photos which show the algae...it is a thick slime. I'm attempting to attach a photo, but am very technically challenged!
 

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Pond dye could stain porous rocks and concrete.

(I should probably exclude myself from further commenting on this, pond dye is a product that I would never use...;))
 
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Meyer Jordan

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The problem with Pond dye is that it is a never ending treatment. It will reduce the algae growth by blocking the sunlight, but it is not itself immune to the sunlight and will begin to lose its blocking capabilities the minute that it is applied. This means that successive, never ending treatments are required....even if it kills the algae.
What I would recommend concurs with what MitchM suggested in an earlier post. Start with a clean slate. Drain and completely clean the ponds. This will enable you to get a control the water quality before any real problems develop and grow. Then developing and inaugurating a regular maintenance program once the ponds are cleaned that include Aeration, periodic (when indicated) applications of 'sludge busting' bacterial treatments, periodic 50% water changes and possible use of flocculants will go a long way in giving the results that you are seeking.
 
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The problem with Pond dye is that it is a never ending treatment. It will reduce the algae growth by blocking the sunlight, but it is not itself immune to the sunlight and will begin to lose its blocking capabilities the minute that it is applied. This means that successive, never ending treatments are required....even if it kills the algae.
What I would recommend concurs with what MitchM suggested in an earlier post. Start with a clean slate. Drain and completely clean the ponds. This will enable you to get a control the water quality before any real problems develop and grow. Then developing and inaugurating a regular maintenance program once the ponds are cleaned that include Aeration, periodic (when indicated) applications of 'sludge busting' bacterial treatments, periodic 50% water changes and possible use of flocculants will go a long way in giving the results that you are seeking.

Since there are " no fish " and there is no filtration system except a pump, why not test for phosphates? ... or don't, since we know they will definitely show up positive. Just remove phosphates and also use an algaecide ??? Without filtration and plants, it seems the algae is going to be ubiquitous. Anything will be a quick fix but not a long term fix. If they won't go for the expense of a UV ( which isn't the solution in this case ) , they certainly aren't going to go for a filtration system for a 15K & 30K gallon pond. Hmm! Stumped ...
 
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Thank-you for your comments. As for draining and starting fresh....I'd still be left with the underlying problem of a poorly constructed pond that is too shallow and sun-exposed so the algae will simply re-grow. I do despair!
 
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Sounds like I am going to be just doing whatever I can with limited resources to achieve a somewhat healthy pond. Thoughts on algaecides?
 
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Since there are " no fish " and there is no filtration system except a pump, why not test for phosphates? ... ...

The presence of the string algae is your confirmation that there is excess phosphate present.
If you did try to test the water for phosphate, it would read zero because the algae would take up the phosphate as it became available in the water column.

.
 
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The presence of the string algae is your confirmation that there is excess phosphate present.
If you did try to test the water for phosphate, it would read zero because the algae would take up the phosphate as it became available in the water column.

.
Really? Always learning something new! For sure I suspected it would come up positive. Live and learn!
 

Meyer Jordan

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Really? Always learning something new! For sure I suspected it would come up positive. Live and learn!

A Phosphorus test may or may not reveal a numeric level, but MitchM is correct in stating that if you have excessive string (filamentous) algae then you definitely have a Phosphorus issue.
 
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If a phosphorous test did show a positive number with string algae present, I would consider it irrelevant because there will always be the process of decomposing plant matter and decomposing detritus that will be in a constant battle of producing/consuming the phosphorous.
 

Meyer Jordan

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If a phosphorous test did show a positive number with string algae present, I would consider it irrelevant because there will always be the process of decomposing plant matter and decomposing detritus that will be in a constant battle of producing/consuming the phosphorous.
Not irrelevant as it is a source for future algae growth. Easily controlled with a binder.
 
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I would prefer to harvest some hair algae and let it grow back , then adjust where i think the PO4 is coming from.
That's my approach anyways.
Source water should be tested for PO4 too.

I do have some lanthanum chloride, but I am hesitant to use it.
That's me though, in a crisis situation I will use it.

.
 

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