New Koi Pond Depth

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That being said, I have some koi that are absolutely huge, over 24 inches with serious girth, and some of them (the same age) that never really got that big. I know the females are usually larger.

Genetics plays a part in growth as well. We had the same experience with our koi - same feed, same amount of time. Some were enormous while a few stayed in the 14-16 inch range.
 
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Thank you. We might be able to go down to 5 feet depth. However, based on the comments I'm seeing here, it appears we are better off at four feet for the following reasons -
1. Our pond will have a large volume (about 12,000 - 15,000 gallons) irrespective of four or five feet. Volume is more important than depth per se. We are able to make the pond surface larger if we decide to do four feet instead of five feet.
2. Four or five feet does not matter to Koi fish size
3. We are in Zone 7A, so anything over 3 feet, is ample for winter freeze
4. Four feet pond is easier to clean-up (bottom debris) than a five feet pond.

Anyone wants to chime in about going up to five feet rather than staying four feet?
 
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Thank you. We might be able to go down to 5 feet depth. However, based on the comments I'm seeing here, it appears we are better off at four feet for the following reasons -
1. Our pond will have a large volume (about 12,000 - 15,000 gallons) irrespective of four or five feet. Volume is more important than depth per se. We are able to make the pond surface larger if we decide to do four feet instead of five feet.
2. Four or five feet does not matter to Koi fish size
3. We are in Zone 7A, so anything over 3 feet, is ample for winter freeze
4. Four feet pond is easier to clean-up (bottom debris) than a five feet pond.

Anyone wants to chime in about going up to five feet rather than staying four feet?
the only advantage would be you get more exercise re digging, imo.
 
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Thank you for sharing your thoughts and great to hear from a fellow CT native! I watched your pond video and your bog pond looks awesome. Could you provide some clarity on the following -
1. Did you mention if I did a bottom drain / bottom return, I will need two of those instead of one?
Code has certain criteria that if you meet you need the two yes. You need to check with your local building inspector.
2. You mentioned simple open pipe. Unfortunately, at four feet depth, I'm pretty much at sea level so not sure where I can drain. Are there other options?
That's exactly why you'd need the relief pipes. If you have a 4 foot deep pond water weighs 8 pounds per gallon so even a small 1000 gallon pond has a bit of weight to it at 8000 pounds. So here's the issue as your sea level /water table rises the weight evens out as the water rises along side your pond equaling this 8000 ponds because the water outside your pond is now equal to inside the pond.. so the solution to this is path of least resistance. As the water level outside the pond wants to rise up and build it finds tge path of least resistance and that will be drain pipes that you have made to alow the water below to escape. Now all water has oxygen in it and trapping said water below a rubber membrane can capture this o2 and start to lift your rubber as well but again a good high-water pond design can mitigate these issues successfully. Look at all the pools built along the sea coast its doable spending the time and money is it fool proof hell no mother nature has a way of doing as she wishes. Is it impossible to work with her Yup.
3. Can you tell me more about the pressure plug? Are they lined next to pond? How many of them?
How they actually make the plug I am unsure. I know its a weak spot at the bottom of the pond so if the drains fail your pond /pool doesn't start floating . Yes I said a concrete pond start to float. We build ships from steel right. There's actually 3 concrete SHIPS in virginia that are the size of small cargo ships that are made from concrete.

I'd lean toward a rubber pond its flexible easier to work with.
If you placed fabric non woven at the bottom then your perforated pipes. stone at the bottom of the pond like a foot of clean 2 inch stone covered with 3/4 stone . Fabric Place over the 3/4 and then your liner or some sand as a buffer. Then the liner you'd have a real good design to stop the hippo. Now where you do have sea water this could throw water rising at you much faster then water seeping through some soil . You may need 2 3 or 4 spots to alow the pressure to escape from below. They do sell a pipe design for this at underground warehouse its like 4 pipes made into a flat mat.

SIMPLE. LOL
 
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My pond is 6 foot and it can be a challange to vaccuume. Expecialy across the pond. I finally broke down and bought a pair of waders so cleanup for winter and the fall leaves was far more manageable. I have the deep I have the 30 inch area for them to go for a swim they still hand at the deep area more then going to the shallows and a longer swim
 
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Even at just over three feet deep, it can be a challenge to get in a pond if you need to. I can stand up and just barely reach the bottom of mine with my head still above water. Any deeper and I'd need a snorkel. In fairness, some people never get in their pond; I get in mine at least every other week all summer long. It's just easier for me when my lilies and other plants need clean up to get in and do what I need to do.
 

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