Sharon Goode said:
2) My PH is 7.6, Ammonia is .25 and still cant get Nitrites below 2.0 water temp is a steady 74. 1) Filter is in second week of cycle and 3) I am maintaining salt levels. 4) Don't want to use a lot of chems what else can I try? 5) Wil water changes help?
1) Filter is in second week of cycle ...
Any updates? Been about a week, curious if your levels have improved. I suspect you should be registering a noticeably growing level of Nitrates as well.
2) My PH is 7.6, Ammonia is .25 and still cant get Nitrites below 2.0 water temp is a steady 74.
With that level of ammonia and high level of nitrites, this gives me the impression "stage 1" (ammonia oxidizers) are doing their job, but the high level of nitrites gives me the impression that "stage 2" (nitrite oxidizers) are lagging behind and this is quite normal. The nitrite oxiders are always the last to develop. If your filter took 2 weeks to get to this point and since weather should be cooling down a bit, then I would not be suprised that your Nitrite levels might be still high or noticeably above zero. Due to your particular environment, I would not be suprised if it might take another week or 2 more weeks for the Nitrites to be entirely neutralized.
4) Don't want to use a lot of chems what else can I try?
First Time High Ammonia - This thread would be applicable to your situation as well. Since Nitrite is product of a form of Ammonia oxidation, if you reduce the ammonia, then you will reduce the Nitrite as well. Also, the mentioned products, such as Amquel Plus, will also neutralize the Nitrite. The product is completely safe and is also a dechlorinator. It is a good "all around" product all ponds should have in their closet; this product or another rendition of this type of product. Honestly, this should be the only chemical in your closet depending on the situation.
3) I am maintaining salt levels.
I hope not too high.
Salinity does not need to be high at all to neutralize Nitrite toxicity. At most, salinity only needs to be up to
.10% to combat Nitrite toxicity. It is the chloride ion that neutralizes the Nitrite ion. The going ratio is around 7:1 to 10:1, chloride to nitrite, required to neutralize toxicity. The typical salt used to increase pond salinity is Sodium Chloride (table salt). The sodium does nothing, or very little, to counteract the Nitrite toxicity. The sodium component is the irritant to fish that causes them to increase their slime coat and is what kills particular weak pathogens and other "bugs". Sodium also changes the water's density and this interacts with the fish so to help with the fish's osmoregulatory system.
Calcium chloride can also combat nitrite toxicity, which is much safer than sodium chloride. Nitrite toxicity essentially morphs the blood and does other stuff causing the fish to carry less oxygen thoughout its body. So, I would still do, at most,
.10% salinity with sodium chloride, or the typical pond salt, to help the fish out with their osmoregulatry system.
If proper pond husbandry is followed to maintain water's calcium and other water parameters, then all you should ever need is
.10% salinity to combat Nitrite toxicity.
Again, only up to
.10% salinity to combat Nitrite toxicity, but, even at this level, it can harm the fully submerged pond plants. Ya can go up to
.15~
.25% salinity, but this will kill most fully aquatic pond plants and some terrestrial bog plants. I would definitely not go any higher than this unless you are told to do it.
To really have an impact on any pathogen or parasite or other "bug", you really have to increase the salinity to .40~.60% or higher and this should only be temperarory and done once a year due to how these "bugs" can evolve to adapt to these salinity levels and you will have to pay close attention to the fish. If I did it at this high level, then I would always be watching the fish for any odd lethargic movements. During the Winter-Spring transition, I have seen individuals raise salinity to this level for up to absolutely no longer than a few weeks to a month. Even during a transition period, doing salinity this high would make me nervious. Personally, I would not do it unless I am told to do so by a professional.
5) Wil water changes help?
Depends on how much water you will exchange ...
In your situation, then I would do 60% daily or 80% once every 2 days or, at the very least 40% daily, that is until the Nitrite level is significantly reduced. Be sure to do them slowly. A fast big water change can shock the fish. First, take out the old water. Then, slowly add the new water over a period of 12 hours or so and be sure to add dechlorinator before hand if it is needed.
Since chemical pollution, that is Ammonia and Nitrite, is constantly regenerating, then this impacts the pollutant equillibrium so much so that the dillution factor is not a 1:1 ratio at a low rate of exchange and the ratio is closer to a 1:1 at higher rates of exchange. In other words...
1) a 20% water change will likely only reduce the pollution by around 5~10%.
2) a 40% water change will likely only be around a 25~30% pollution dilution
3) a 60% water change around a 45~50% pollution dilution
4) a 80% water change would be around a 70~75% pollution dilution.
Of course, this all depends on your pollution's regeneration rate so the disparity might be larger for some and no so much for others.
Generally, small water changes of 10~20%, on a
weekly basis, are only effective to replenish minerals in the water.
Generally, "Flow through" systems are water change systems that do roughly 15%~20% or higher
daily water changes for entire seasons and this being done on a 24/7 duration, sometimes all year round, is what makes them quite useful.
