Phosphate vs nitrate readings

[Mmathis]

My API Master test kit comes with a nitrate test instead of phosphate. I think the Master kit has "nitrate" and the Pond kit has "phosphate." So I've never tested for phosphates, but I read where some people do.

In simple English [also, simple chemistry],

• Is one test better or prefered over the other in terms of the health and well-being of the pond?

• What does one tell you that the other one does not?

• Does it matter which one you use?

Remember, SIMPLE English, SIMPLE chemistry.....
[You gotta dumb it down for some of us folks]​

 

[Meyer Jordan]

Simple answer. Two different elements=different ecological impact=two different tests needed.

 

[cas]

OK @Meyer Jordan , too simple. What is the different ecological impact of both?

 

[Meyer Jordan]

OK @Meyer Jordan , too simple. What is the different ecological impact of both?

OOPS!
Both (Nitrate and Phosphorus) are essential to algae growth and since some algae growth is necessary to the overall balance of a pond some level of each is desired in a pond. Too much of both or either, however, can promote uncontrolled algae growth (blooms) that can cause major problems and even fish mortality.
Acceptable limits have been described for each of these elements in a fresh water environment. For Nitrate---20 mg/L (10 mg/L is ideal); for phosphorus--<0.05 mg/L.
A high Nitrate level will promote planktonic algae growth.
A high Phosphorus level will promote filamentous algae growth.
Attaining and maintaining a 0.00 level for either element is not advisable. Nitrate is essential to the growth of sessile algae (periphyton) which contributes to the food chain and provides Oxygen. Phosphorus is necessary in that algae is unable to utilize Nitrate without Phosphorus. (Its an organic chemistry thing).
So each is important in similar, but different, ways. Separate testing is therefor advised..

 

[cas]

Thanks. That helps.

 

[Dave 54]

The pond master is a pond test kit the other is the Aquarium test kit .

Dave

 

[Mmathis]

The pond master is a pond test kit the other is the Aquarium test kit .

Dave

At least here in the US, both kits are identical except that the MASTER kit contains the test for nitrate, and the POND kit contains the test for phosphate. There is no difference in their intended use, as all other reagents are identical.

 

[Dave 54]

Are you sure there Maggie they havent forulated one for the pond the other for the aquarium , I remember this discussion a short while ago during someones readings which gave the ponds Ph as both 7.6 and 8.5 to be correct .

Dave

 

[Meyer Jordan]

Are you sure there Maggie they havent forulated one for the pond the other for the aquarium , I remember this discussion a short while ago during someones readings which gave the ponds Ph as both 7.6 and 8.5 to be correct .

Dave

pH is pH! There are not different forms or types. The tests may be different in that a differentiation can be made between low pH and high pH. The individual test would indicate this distinction on the product label.

 

[Mmathis]

Are you sure there Maggie they havent forulated one for the pond the other for the aquarium , I remember this discussion a short while ago during someones readings which gave the ponds Ph as both 7.6 and 8.5 to be correct .

Dave

No idea, just know what we have here in the US. And the reagents in my Master kit should be exactly the same for what's used in a pond or in an aquarium. And @Meyer Jordan, what this might be in reference to [regarding the pH].......I know that my Master kit has a "regular" and a "high" reagent bottle for pH.

 

[Nepen]

OOPS!
Both (Nitrate and Phosphorus) are essential to algae growth and since some algae growth is necessary to the overall balance of a pond some level of each is desired in a pond. Too much of both or either, however, can promote uncontrolled algae growth (blooms) that can cause major problems and even fish mortality.
Acceptable limits have been described for each of these elements in a fresh water environment. For Nitrate---20 mg/L (10 mg/L is ideal); for phosphorus--<0.05 mg/L.
A high Nitrate level will promote planktonic algae growth.
A high Phosphorus level will promote filamentous algae growth.
Attaining and maintaining a 0.00 level for either element is not advisable. Nitrate is essential to the growth of sessile algae (periphyton) which contributes to the food chain and provides Oxygen. Phosphorus is necessary in that algae is unable to utilize Nitrate without Phosphorus. (Its an organic chemistry thing).
So each is important in similar, but different, ways. Separate testing is therefor advised..

This make sense but then I have a question
So when people see higher phosphorus you suggest them to use binding for them, wouldnt that be making the phosphorus level 0? or would that be ok for a short period?

 

[Smaug]

The kits are the same ,no difference in lot numbers between the two as i have checked them out side by side on the store shelf. Checking for nitrates is very important,especially if yiu aren't doing water changes. Checking for phosphate is very misleading because it takes a quality test kit to truly see what you have . It's a very important test for reef keeping but I never bother with it for my pond.

 

[Meyer Jordan]

This make sense but then I have a question
So when people see higher phosphorus you suggest them to use binding for them, wouldnt that be making the phosphorus level 0? or would that be ok for a short period?

When using a Phosphorus binder, or any other pond treatment, always follow directions. Phosphorus binder dosing is calculated to reduce Phosphorus levels gradually. Once a level of <0.05 mg/L is achieved, then use of the binder is stopped.