Pond is done, now to cap

[gcann]

Pond is done, 2000 gallons, have a question on how to apply the cap. I have 2 layers of underlayment, the liner, and the a layer of roll rock.
I tried the PL by Loctite but the layers are the issue.
The cap hangs over about a half inch on both sides so it’s tippy if someone leans on it. I let it all overlap because all the post say never cut the liner short.
Suggestions ?

 

[mrsclem]

How about if you fold the excess liner back inside pond wall? The reason for not cutting liner is ground settlment making your liner too small. With a raised pond, capping can be an issue. My ponds are wood so screws were used.

 

[gcann]

Thanks for the input but not sure if that’s possible being it’s 2 layers of 6oz geotextile underlayment then liner then roll rock….. it’s a clump.
I’m considering trying to cut the underlayment back leaving the liner and roll rock. But that concerns me cutting so much next to the liner and that underlayment is a bear to cut also.
I did think about drilling a single hole and screwing but that creates so many other issues, dust, tearing, …..

 

[CometKeith]

Pond is done, 2000 gallons, have a question on how to apply the cap. I have 2 layers of underlayment, the liner, and the a layer of roll rock.
I tried the PL by Loctite but the layers are the issue.
The cap hangs over about a half inch on both sides so it’s tippy if someone leans on it. I let it all overlap because all the post say never cut the liner short.
Suggestions ?

Hi so really the theory is not to cut it short because you may need it later ie if you add a small addition to the pond, waterfall, etc. In your case because these are solid retaining walls you have no choice but to cut it to make everything work out. Nice pond!

 

[GBBUDD]

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO DON'T CUT

I AM ASSUMING YOU HAVE WOOD OR DO YOUHAVE MORTAR BELOW the rock on a roll ?
Either way if you want to secure the rubber and rock on a roll then this is one method that is standard with say a parapit wall on a roof which is basically what you have . a termination strip a 1 inch to a 1 1/2" wide by a 1/16" aluminum or stainless steel strip thats perforated preferably where you can screw through the strip and through the liner and rock on a roll the strip will also pinch the liner and rock on a roll holding it in place. adding a bead of silicone under the liner before yo start certainly won't hurt . but now that you have the strip your cap is going to be raised a little one of two things can be done you can cut a shallow trench into the concrete block barely deeper then the strip place each block over the strip siliconing the cap to the strip and the caps to each other along the sides.

The other is to shim so that the cap now sits on the strip to secure the liner and a second strip to keep the cap from rocking and caulk those both to the cap and again each cap to each other and then run a bead of caul to hide the shims it will look just like a pools coping edge with mortar but you used caulking

all surfaces must be clean and dry in order for caulking to stick

 

[gcann]

CometKieth - thanks for the compliment, you view makes sense because yes being it’s all block wall I will not be expanding the pond, only need to allow for settling.

It’s been full for 10 days, how long should it take to fully settle?

thanks for the input

 

[gcann]

GBBUDD - the entire pond is concrete filled block
if I’m understanding your post you suggest secure the liners then secure the caps… that’s a thought as well.
Not up to cutting a trench through the top of the walls but a thin strip may be an option

thanks for the input

 

[poconojoe]

Your pond is beautiful!
Nice stone work!

You say the caps are rocking. I'm guessing this means they are not sitting on a completely flat surface.

Maybe the caps need to sit in some type of bedding to even out the surface.
What type of bedding, I don't know. Either some type of caulking, silicone or mortar cement.

I would do a test. Lift two blocks, lay a bed of mortar cement. Dampen the underside of the blocks (so the blocks don't suck all the water out of the mortar too quickly) and press the blocks into it. Let it cure overnight and see the results.

If you want, instead of wetting the underside of the block with water, you can use an acrylic bonding agent to make it sticky for better adherence. It's a whilte liquid sold in bottles.

 

[gcann]

Sorry no they aren't rocking they are tippy, meaning they overhang about 1/2 inch on the front and back and with nothing holding them down if you put your hands on the edge and lean they tip. We at least want the front row to be secure so we don't have to worry about anybody leaning and having them tip.
If I make a bed for the caps it would adhere to the underside of the caps but not the 3 layers under it, (underlayment, liner, and rock on a roll)

thank you for the compliment!

 

[Rashad]

Can you cut the rock on a roll, then fold the liner and underlayment back so it just covers part of the underlying block and then glue the caps to the underlying blocks?

 

[Jhn]

GBBUDD - the entire pond is concrete filled block
if I’m understanding your post you suggest secure the liners then secure the caps… that’s a thought as well.
Not up to cutting a trench through the top of the walls but a thin strip may be an option

thanks for the input

If I understand what @GBBUDD is suggesting is not cutting a trench in the top of your wall, but on the underside of your cap blocks so the termination strip goes up into the cap blocks as you set them, giving it something secure to be adhered to along with each capblock As you work your way around.

 

[GBBUDD]

Its really not that hard to cut in the trench. Your only talking a 1/4 to 3/8of an inch deep by a 1/4 inch wider then the strip. This can be done with a circular saw and a masonry blade or a grinder. Regardless they both will only take about a minute each to make the trech accross each caps. Spend the money buy a diamond blade grinder probably 40 bucks and the circular orobably 60 bucs

 

[brokensword]

Its really not that hard to cut in the trench. Your only talking a 1/4 to 3/8of an inch deep by a 1/4 inch wider then the strip. This can be done with a circular saw and a masonry blade or a grinder. Regardless they both will only take about a minute each to make the trech accross each caps. Spend the money buy a diamond blade grinder probably 40 bucks and the circular orobably 60 bucs

or you could fly GB in; I'm sure he'd show you how it's done! Might only cost you a 6-pack and a pizza (besides the airline ticket), hey GB? (hmm, SHOULD I insert a smilie or would it be wasted here??? heh heh)

 

[GBBUDD]

Looks like you bent me over and pushed me in head first .
Honestly though if you can use a circular saw go to the depot buy a masonry diamond blade IT DOESN'T NEED TO BE AN EXPENSIVE BLADE being over 100 bucks set the saws depth to 3/8" would be my guess for the thickness of the strip and the head of the torque screws if you need masonry screw. If you can use screws then use ceramic coated and then you can reduce your cut a little to say 1/4" and make about 5 passes with the 1/8" wide blade so you now have all the cuts going across the cap and knock out the remaining concrete with a hammer chisel or what ever works for you if you only have 1/4inch between cuts it should be practically falling off . Wear safety glasses

 

[Jhn]

Looks like you bent me over and pushed me in head first .

Huh,…. this statement is wrong on so many levels