This may be a really silly question. Is it ok to use any type of rocks in your waterfall? I was just given some slabs of limestone and wondering if certain types of rock affect your water or if anything goes?
Rocks in the waterfall
- Thread starter haver79
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I believe limestone has a habit of raising ph in water. Not sure to what extent. Someone else on here will know more.
I think that is the same reason why concrete raises the pH... because of the limestone content. The advantage of a higher pH is that it also brings up the kh, which helps to stabilize the pond from rapid changes in pH and oxygen.
You probably need to look at what your normal pH is in your pond. If it is already really high (above 8.0) then you probably do not want to use the limestone. On the other hand, if you have hard water and/or a low pH, the limestone would be a perfect addition to permanently improve your water chemistry.
You probably need to look at what your normal pH is in your pond. If it is already really high (above 8.0) then you probably do not want to use the limestone. On the other hand, if you have hard water and/or a low pH, the limestone would be a perfect addition to permanently improve your water chemistry.
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Limestone is not recommended. Either slate or granite is best. If your water is really acidic raising the ph might be good but you don't want to have the change the waterfall rocks if it gets too high. I use limestone for the edges of my pond but they don't lean towards the pond so rainwater doesn't hit them and go into the pond. When I first built my waterfall I had all limestone and I have switched most of it now because I had a very high ph.
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Thanks for the replies.
I have not received my test kit yet so I do not know what my water tests. Pond has been filled for a week. No fish in yet.
I will wait. I guess I may have to go out and buy a couple of small slabs. Just needed something for the water to spill over.
Most of the rock surrounding the fall are just rocks I have collected in the surrounding fields.
I have not received my test kit yet so I do not know what my water tests. Pond has been filled for a week. No fish in yet.
I will wait. I guess I may have to go out and buy a couple of small slabs. Just needed something for the water to spill over.
Most of the rock surrounding the fall are just rocks I have collected in the surrounding fields.
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haver79, You should cycle the pond before adding your fish. The best way is to add a couple very small goldfish. It can take a month or so before it cycles. It won't cycle without a biological agent.
HTH
Howard
Yes infect you pond with feeder fish!
Sot of like playing Russian roulette with you new pond.
Sigh
Sot of like playing Russian roulette with you new pond.
Sigh
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Using media from an existing tank would be perfect, assuming that the water from there is similar to what you want your water in the pond to eventually be. You can't get any better booster to the beneficial bacteria than adding media from an existing pond! Then, once your pond has some good bacteria going on, I assume you also have fish in that stock tank that you can move over to the new pond, as well.
I've added "feeder fish" to my ponds initially, and also after they were up and going, as I tend to prefer the little fish and watching them grow. Never had any ill effect, but then I don't have expensive fish in my ponds either. I've also had very good luck with Wal-Mart goldfish, and I know others would frown on them as well. I would never buy a sickly looking fish, and since I've had aquariums for over 45 years, I guess I've gotten lucky all these years picking healthy fish. :blueflower:
I've added "feeder fish" to my ponds initially, and also after they were up and going, as I tend to prefer the little fish and watching them grow. Never had any ill effect, but then I don't have expensive fish in my ponds either. I've also had very good luck with Wal-Mart goldfish, and I know others would frown on them as well. I would never buy a sickly looking fish, and since I've had aquariums for over 45 years, I guess I've gotten lucky all these years picking healthy fish. :blueflower:
HTH
Howard
Fish from your other pond would be ideal. Just put a few in to get it started and add a few more each week. Watch the ammonia and nitrite but if you play it right you will never have much of either.
HTH
Howard
One the feeder fish thing. Saying it worked for me is like saying I had unprotected sex with a pro and did not get an STD. Its safe have at it.
Regardless of where you buy fish it is best to quarenteen them. It is a whole lot easier to treat fish in QT then it is once they are loose in the pond. Now if your pond is say 500 gallons or less it is not such a big deal. But try treating fish in a 5000 gallon pond is a problem.
Last I checked nobody I know of can see bacteria or virus unless they are already causing problems. The six week of QT gives it time to give us visual cues.
I know QT is had in fact it is a PIA. But then nobody is forcing you to do it. Just want you to know the lay of the land.
Regardless of where you buy fish it is best to quarenteen them. It is a whole lot easier to treat fish in QT then it is once they are loose in the pond. Now if your pond is say 500 gallons or less it is not such a big deal. But try treating fish in a 5000 gallon pond is a problem.
Last I checked nobody I know of can see bacteria or virus unless they are already causing problems. The six week of QT gives it time to give us visual cues.
I know QT is had in fact it is a PIA. But then nobody is forcing you to do it. Just want you to know the lay of the land.
I only have 7 goldfish in my stock tank pond. 4" to 5". Is that really enough to get a 3000 gal pond going? I hate to test the waters with my little fishes. I've grown attached. lol I assume I should wait to add anything till I get my test kit. But I fear if I dont put anything in soon it is going to get mosquitoe infested. I dont have much media but will transfer some over. (this is just a 150 gal stock tank)
Will it help if I add some of the stock tank water as well?
Will it help if I add some of the stock tank water as well?
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As I said above, "I guess I've gotten lucky all these years picking healthy fish."
If you have "safe" water to put back into the stock tank, by all means add some of that water to the new pond. Again, it will help get things cycled in the new pond. Probably best to get your filtration running ASAP on the new pond, no matter if you have filter media or water from the stock tank. If you keep the water moving, not as much chance of skeeters breeding in there. I had my first pond up and running for 3 weeks before I added any fish, and then I did use the feeder fish to "test the waters". I totally understand where HTH is coming from, saying you're taking the chance of bringing in disease. I took the chance, no problems, fish lived, still have them. Quarantine is always best, but I've never done that either. Again, I've gotten lucky, it's not the way to do it and I don't mean to suggest that it is the way you SHOULD do it, just the way I did it and no problems. It's probably one of those lessons you only learn the hard way once.
Another lesson someone else learned the hard way and I learned from them (thank goodness) is if you have a submersible pump, do NOT put it on the bottom of your pond! If you have a water line failure outside of the pond, you will drain your pond and have dead fish within the hour.
If you have "safe" water to put back into the stock tank, by all means add some of that water to the new pond. Again, it will help get things cycled in the new pond. Probably best to get your filtration running ASAP on the new pond, no matter if you have filter media or water from the stock tank. If you keep the water moving, not as much chance of skeeters breeding in there. I had my first pond up and running for 3 weeks before I added any fish, and then I did use the feeder fish to "test the waters". I totally understand where HTH is coming from, saying you're taking the chance of bringing in disease. I took the chance, no problems, fish lived, still have them. Quarantine is always best, but I've never done that either. Again, I've gotten lucky, it's not the way to do it and I don't mean to suggest that it is the way you SHOULD do it, just the way I did it and no problems. It's probably one of those lessons you only learn the hard way once.
Another lesson someone else learned the hard way and I learned from them (thank goodness) is if you have a submersible pump, do NOT put it on the bottom of your pond! If you have a water line failure outside of the pond, you will drain your pond and have dead fish within the hour.
HTH
Howard
Cycling a pond is much much easier if you have a cycled pond with fish and media to draw from. And you do.
You can use your 7 goldfish to cycle the new pond without harming them.
Their bioload is so small (for the pond) that the ammonia level should never build to harmful levels. Maybe not even to detectable levels.
The bacteria multiplies, 1, 2, 4, 8, 16 etc as it grows. The hard part is getting a small colony going. Once you have that it rapidly expands. By moving cycled bio media you get that small colony 'right now'. But you have to wait to move it till you have ammonia or the bacteria on the biomedia will starve.
Start with 3 of goldfish. Wait 2 weeks or for the ammonia level to be detectable, it may never be.
If ammonia is detected transfer 1/2 the bio media to the new pond. Watch for the ammonia level to drop. When it does move 2 more fish. We are leaving fish in the stock tank to keep its bio filter going.
If the ammonia was not detected add 2 more fish and wait another 2 weeks for the ammonia to show up. If it does transfer 1/2 the media if not you are good to go.
Now you have a bio filter capable of handling the 5 fish. You can move them back to their stock tank and replace them with other fish. But do not leave the pond without fish for long or the filter will die back.
In about 2 days a biofilter that can handle 5 fish will grow to handle 10 etc.
Your cycled media is better then anything that comes from a bottle.
I hope that gives you a better understanding of cycling ponds.
You can use your 7 goldfish to cycle the new pond without harming them.
Their bioload is so small (for the pond) that the ammonia level should never build to harmful levels. Maybe not even to detectable levels.
The bacteria multiplies, 1, 2, 4, 8, 16 etc as it grows. The hard part is getting a small colony going. Once you have that it rapidly expands. By moving cycled bio media you get that small colony 'right now'. But you have to wait to move it till you have ammonia or the bacteria on the biomedia will starve.
Start with 3 of goldfish. Wait 2 weeks or for the ammonia level to be detectable, it may never be.
If ammonia is detected transfer 1/2 the bio media to the new pond. Watch for the ammonia level to drop. When it does move 2 more fish. We are leaving fish in the stock tank to keep its bio filter going.
If the ammonia was not detected add 2 more fish and wait another 2 weeks for the ammonia to show up. If it does transfer 1/2 the media if not you are good to go.
Now you have a bio filter capable of handling the 5 fish. You can move them back to their stock tank and replace them with other fish. But do not leave the pond without fish for long or the filter will die back.
In about 2 days a biofilter that can handle 5 fish will grow to handle 10 etc.
Your cycled media is better then anything that comes from a bottle.
I hope that gives you a better understanding of cycling ponds.