sick fish!

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yeah my first filter was one of those thirty gallon totes from wal mart. lol it worked though. but i used the wet dry concept from an aquarium to build this. kinda a wet dry filter and a skimmer. i also have one of my pumps feeding from a trash can. but its only about ten gal. why did you mention mold with that :cry: now im worried or happy that could be the problem. and yes there are alot of smilarities between an aquarium and a pond since they are both pretty much closed systems. the good thing about koi is that they are hardy and usually take alot but they grow fast and they produce alot of waste. so i would say thats the main difference but with both the filters have to mature in order for the water and fish to be healthy.
 
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Fishy, my husband is the one into filtration... I am more the type that keeps adding fish, and he makes the filtration work to cover whatever I have done LOL. In my under educated opinion, if the pumps were pushing too much, the water would be washing out of this type of design, but stress, I am under educated here. To me, visually, it seems like there should be more filter media. (UVs on the other hand I understand are not effective if the flow is too high).
 
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Mold is only a concern in a basement situation if there isnt enough ventilation... with the color strip tests, each color usually represents a PPM for each color the results could be... Havent used that type in a long time, but yellow would mean 0 ammonia, but light green could mean .25 ppm, or dark green could mean 1 PPM... anything above 0 is bad... the higher the number, the bigger the issue... when you compare the values of ammonia to nitrites to nitrates, you can guess where you are at in the waste cycle, and just how dangerous the over all picture could be....
 
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Yah I'm on the iPad, don't think this forum is iPad friendly as far as posting pictures lol I'm just too lazy to sit in front of the computer to download pictures lol. But I will soon. I'm still learning how to use this forum :)
 
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i read some things online and watch some videos on how to build acrylic aquariums by using this compound call weld on four. it actually changes the molecular structure of the acrylic and allows the two pieces become one. basicly it melts (welds) the acrylic and the two pieces fuse together. it took some practice and exact measuring for it not to leak. lol and also some money. cell cast acrylic can get kinda exspensive. well for me it can. lol i mean i make filters out of trash cans and totes. this is my upgrade and after talking to you guys i miight have a whole new remodel to do in my plumbing, which i was going to do anyways so i would have more flow to my filter. im going to change the 2" pvc to a 3" pvc through out
 

callingcolleen1

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Indoor pond.... hummm, is the pump moving the water around well, does any part appear to not flow well, cause indoor ponds tend to overheat in some cases and most people forget that as the years go by, the fish grow, and sometimes better filtertration is required. Sounds like you need to look at the filter, make sure it's not plugged up, change some water, do a "spring cleaning" for sure and maybe add bubber to get more oxygen in water?
 

crsublette

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Yep, can see pictures good now.

Not for sure on your filters. If they work, then it's all good.

If ya start registering any ammonia levels, then this mean your bio-filter is failing. Bio-filter's job is to make ammonia disappear. It could be failing due to immature, small benefical bacteria colonies or filter needs to be improved or replaced. If your water is in the 72*F water temp range and 7.5~8.5pH range, then should only take 2~3 weeks for the bacteria colonies to be matured well enough to process a good ammonia load; otherwise, it will take longer for the bacteria to mature.

i tested my water last night and my nitrates are pretty high
High nitrates can mean one of two things ... :
1) bio-filter is working ... or ...
2) your tap water is high in nitrates

Plants will reduce the nitrates if your tap water is high in nitrates. If tap water is ok, then I would just do water changes if ammonia levels are ok.

Also, opinions will vary, but IMO, you ARE over populated for your pond size.
Water quality determine whether you are overpopulated, not the pond size. Hotel and restaurant aquariums are extremely overpopulated, but these aquariums have very quite extensive, compact bio-filtering and automatic dosing machines when KH falls too low. Ecosystem capacity for fish is determined by their water quality.

sorrry i dont have the exact numbers all i have is the test strips. the two things i bottom didnt give me any numbers just colors. man now i realize i dont know as much as i thought haha.
Test strips are simple, quick and easy way to figure out if everything is still ok. When test strips raise red flags, then best to use liquid test kits such as API freshwater test kit; this kit has everything in it and ya can find it in most pet stores like Petsmart.

is it possible to that he has too high of a flow going through the filter? With having two pumps?
The most efficient bio-filters involve high water flows since the flow helps to clean the bio-medium to prevent crud buildup. Crud buildup can get thick enough, killing beneficial bacteria. As long as there is no crud being pushed through his mechanical filters, no immense level of crud entering his bio-media during cleaning of the mechanical filters, then a high flow is no problem. If curious, so ya know, the wet/dry portion helps to provide constant O2 penetration to help bacteria do their job better; this way bacteria isn't taking any O2 away from the fish.

maybe add bubber to get more oxygen in water?
That'd be a very good idea to do as well. Put in a bubbler or aerator or something to cause some healthy water stirring, that is pushing the water from the pond's bottom to the top, will help improve oxygenation.
 

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