String Algae

crsublette

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A wise competitor to the barley would educate their consumers about how and why barley does not work. Then, business shows why their product does work. Which product would a very new pond guy,coming without a bias, would buy?

Certain manufacturers flat out do not want to educate their consumer because it costs time, resources, and cuts into their bottomline.
 

brandonsdad02

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Colleen......not one bit. My water is crystal clear. I have never seen my water this clear before. I don't need the way too far in depth 87 year degree reason why something is bad or something is flawed. I just learn as I go and keep doing what works for me. I want to get away from using chemicals. So far I'm not too that point but I hope as my pond gets older and I get more plants I won't need chemicals.
 

callingcolleen1

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I don't know about barley customers, but I still like peat extract better. Over the years the trees have grown, and with more trees, I have more caterpillers, and caterpillers dung will give you the same effect as concentrated peat or barley, lower the PH and darken the water. In my water garden book by Helen Nash and Steve Stroupe, they discuss the Long wood gardens in Pennsylvania and how they would use black water dyes to shade the water and prevent green water algae growth. this book is 14 years old or so
 

crsublette

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Well, I am going to take my Parrots Feather out and into a stocktank. Then dose them with a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution. Stocktank is 100 gallons so gonna use 1 pint, as mentioned on Waterbug's website. Dose it every 5 days.

Yeah, my Parrots Feather started to get some noticeable algae growth, think its the string variety.

Hoping I do not have to chunk the plants; each plant cost me 8 bucks, grrr. Once algae gone, gonna rinse the plants good before putting them in water feature.

Hoping for the best. :)
 

callingcolleen1

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I used to grow and propagate parrot feather, no need to throw out the plant. I would just take a long thin stick and reach down into the pond and twirl the string algae like "candy floss" or pull some gently off the plant with your hands. Does not have to be perfect, then I would get some small floaters like duck weed, fairy moss or floating fern and float them I between the parrot feather. They grow good together and the small floaters will prevent the aglae from growing on the parrot feather root., Worst case scenario, cut fresh tips off 3 or 4 inches from the tip of plant, and replant those between small rocks. The plants snips do not need to be in dirt. If the duck weed trys to float away, make a dam by placing and nice long old weathered stick or natural log and float in pond and wedge stick at waters edge, got to be creative if you have too. :)
 
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The pond I dosed didn't have plants directly in the water, they were planted in a bog area. I thought Parrot Feather was one of them, but looking at the picture the plants were Pennywort, Umbrella Palm, Corkscrew Rush, and Cardinal Plant. I've never put HP directly onto higher plants as keeping the plants out of the water seemed to be a better way of keeping algae off of them.

The dose has to be adjusted for conditions. Using 3% HP would be difficult to overdose, but here are the numbers if you want to compute lethal doses.

I don't think, but don't know either, that dosing plants with HP will kill string algae completely. Maybe some species. When I say "killed" on the web page I mean so you can't really see any. Since it comes right back I assume there are small bits remaining or reproductive matter.

If you were worried about losing the Parrot Feather you can plant it in a regular garden pot with dirt from the yard and water once a day, or even set the pot in a shallow dish so the pot has wet feet. It should grow very well. Then you can divide and repeat. Then you'll have lots of plants to experiment on.
 

crsublette

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Roger, heh, thanks Waterbug, good stuff. It does sound like it knocked back the string algae but still I am going to ditch the HP idea. Guess i'll have to manually brush off the algae from the Parrot Feather. Seems like a time consuming task. I sure do love the parrot feather and maris tail. GIves my water feature a nice touch.

Do I just kind of wedge the fairy moss into and around the parrot feather ??
 

callingcolleen1

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Fariy moss is a floating small plant that looks mossy, but floats, kinda like duckweed but two or three times the size. The only thing is some fish may like to eat it. If you have the parrot feather in very shallow water, you can make a log dam to keep the small floaters in place :)
 

callingcolleen1

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When you are at the "pond plant place" in your area, ask for these small floaters. They come in a little clear container with some water for them to float in. Take half of the fairy moss out and place in a little water pot feature so you can grow extra I case the fish eat more that it can grow in pond.
 
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Plant in a pot, keep top of pot above waterline, trim sprigs that fall into the water. No algae problem, pot is covered by plant. Pretty hard to tell the plant is above or below waterline. Lot easier to maintain imo.
 
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Well didn't this thread get interesting while I was away trying to get the string algae out of my pond! Facts, theories, beliefs and superstitions. The debate has been very interesting to read this morning and most informative too. Since facts are largely just theories that have not yet been disproved, I remain sure that the more I learn, the more I find out that I know very little.

My UV filter keeps my water crystal clear all the time so I'm ok there. I think various people have various levels of success with control of string algae because of the status of the myriad of other parameters involved and those who are successful are so because they have got things in balance for their particular situation.

All I can do then is keep tweaking my parameters until I get lucky! Big thanks to Waterbug for the all the information and for showing me how little I know but giving me lots more to try. I'm going to get rid of the big clump of Elodea that sits in the deep end of my pond, I know the fish like it but it is the main string algae breeding place. I'm going to keep siphoning out as much of the stuff as I can but in such a way as to return the water to the pond. I'm going to take out the baskets and clean them up and get some new plants. And I'm going to put a bag of Rowaphos from my aquarium paraphernalia into the last stage of the pond filter and try some peroxide dosing.

The electric drill attachment pump came but it wasn't powerful enough. I won the Ebay auction on the Blagdon Monsta Pond Vac but it was too powerful! It came without the collector basket so I made one up using a plastic planting trough but even with 6 x 1.5" holes along the side covered up with a layer of filter wool, it filled up more quickly than it drained. I'm sure these things are great for a 20,000lt pond but for my 2000lts it's uncontrollable! All it did was stir up a huge cloud of dust which clogged up the pond filter and overflowed 100lts of pond water over the garden! Anyone want a Blagdon Monsta for £50 or swap for a pump that's more powerful than a trickle but less than a torrent!

Thanks again for everyone's input. Keep tweaking!

Sally
 

crsublette

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UV might be one of the reasons why you have a string algae. UV kills anything that is floating including small cell floating algae; I believe this is the same type of algae that causes pea green water when the algae's population becomes very high.

If ya are always running the UV light, then ya likely have no small cell algae to compete with the string algae. Lack of competition might be the reason why your string algae gets so bad.

I only run my UV light for 24 hours every 3~4 weeks so that the small cell algae population does not get too high, turning my water green, and I hope this is allowing some of the small algae to be around to make a difference, maybe I need to run it for only 12 hours.

I would be careful with the peroxide dosing. That linke waterbug mentioned is very interesting. The hydrogen peroxide only dissolves when it is in a reaction to something else; if you lack this "something else", then the peroxide will stay in your water longer meaning you may overdose eventually. From that hyperlink mentioned, this is more likely to happen sooner if your pond has just gone through an extremely thorough cleaning or is completely brand new. I suppose the advice for peroxide dosing is, "be sure ya wait a few days or more before your next peroxide dose". Even though the hyperlink talks about how much peroxide it would take to overdose, the fact that the hydrogen peroxide can linger around a long time causing an overdose easier; this is what scares me away from it since my water feature is so new.

I use the new Pond Oase vaccum. I think offhand it is like 3 or 4 horse power (don't quote me on that), but it is very powerful with twin chambers so ya never have to stop. I connet PVC to the suction portion to reduce it down from a 1 1/2" sucker to a 1/2" sucker. Without the reducer, I was pumping out more water than debris; heh, emptied my 430 gallon water feature by the time I was finished. Now, I only lose about 80 gallons and the suction is crazy strong since I reduced it. I can get all the gunk between the rocks and leaves and everything crazy easy. Oase is quite expensive but worth the money. I have never had any issues at all sucking up small gravel, small twigs, large clumps of long string algae, and big clumps of leaves. At the end of the vaccum's drain hose, I put some PVC pieces on there where I can hook a 2" tubing with a very big nylon laundry at the end; this sits next to one of my trees so the water is not wasted. My next project is to set up a filtration of batting and other stuff so I can recycle the water back into the water feature. If ya have a very big, very deep and very wide and very long pond, then ya might lose too much suction due to the length of the suction apparatus; this is the main problem I read about it for people with much bigger ponds.


Plant in a pot, keep top of pot above waterline, trim sprigs that fall into the water. No algae problem, pot is covered by plant. Pretty hard to tell the plant is above or below waterline. Lot easier to maintain imo.

Very good idea man. I think it will look nice too when it drapes, hiding the pot a bit.



Anyone got any advice for the Maris Tail ?? It is an underwater oxygenator and I think is a variety of Anacharis. Right now, only a very little bit of algae is growing on it, hard to tell if it is the really fast growing string algae.
 

crsublette

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Anyone got any advice for the Maris Tail ?? It is an underwater oxygenator and I think is a variety of Anacharis. Right now, only a very little bit of algae is growing on it, hard to tell if it is the really fast growing string algae.

Welp, got my pond vac ... came down on the Maris Tail straight down so not coming at it at an angle ... sucked the Maris Tail stem just really quick ... bingo, no algae and everything stayed together. I could suck up a few stems at a time. Took a full minute to clean the plant.

Parrot feather I had to completely submerge in water so the stems were sticking straight up, but still gonna do the pot idea Waterbug mentioned.
 

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