The UV-C "An important thing to get just right"...

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When we start building our ponds we lear that to help keep the water in the pond crystal clear we need to buy an important piece of kit in the form of a UV-C
We use a 36 watt model for our 1,000 gallon Imperial pond , it differs from many of the more conventional UV-C's in that it has a double bulb , it was recomended to us by our friendly local dealer not for a sale as such as we bought it trade price , its right for our own pond
However this got Val and I to thinking how many new pond keepers are just sold one by the aquatc store staff without knowing if it is just right for your pond?
So we had a look for a chart that would help the newbie to our hobby decide just what size and strength UV-C will be right for your pond .
It took a while to track one down but at last weve found one to help you decide if the one you have or are thinking of buying is the correct one for you :-

http://www.aquaultraviolet.com/sites/default/files/brochures/UV Charts Salt and Fresh Water.pdf

We hope this helps you in your choice and style as well as strength of your UV- C , even we old time pond keepers and koi keepers might want to check this chart out if we are upsizing our pond and are unsure of the size and style of UV-C we would need to upgrade our old ones should we be unsure of gallonage to size of UV-C .
Once installed on a pond please remember that most of the UV-c bulbs start to loose their power after about 6 months and need to be changed once every twelve months .
Or in the case of the double bulbed UV-C once every two years .



Dave
 
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No you don't need a UV unit, but if you get green water from free floating algae and want to get rid of it quick it sure can help.
Most of the year my pond stay nice and clear, but sometimes in the spring the when the old string algae and plant mater left over from last year before starts to break down and go through the nitrogen cycle, and my plants aren't active yet, I end up with an excess of nutrients for a while and I'll start to get a slight green murky tinge, I can switch on the UV and in a few days and with the UV and some fine mechanical filtration it clears right up. Using a UV light for just a few days like that it could last for decades.
However, I over sized my UV unit so it can also actually function as a sterilizer, and during the cold transition periods when the fish immunity is low, but any pathogens in the water might be active, I switch on the UV to help control pathogens that might be in the water. This usually coincides with when I'll get that murky green tinge, so it all works out good. (y)
Dave's link also provides proper UV sizing for sterilization.
 
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I agree with you both that a UV can clear a pond but it should noted that, as said above, the algae is "feeding" on excessive "nutrients", which should more accurately be called toxic ammonia. In the Spring, biofiltration capacity is low, and the green water algae take up the slack. Sure, you can clear it with UV, but at the expense of poisoning you fish.
 
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I agree with you both that a UV can clear a pond but it should noted that, as said above, the algae is "feeding" on excessive "nutrients", which should more accurately be called toxic ammonia. In the Spring, biofiltration capacity is low, and the green water algae take up the slack. Sure, you can clear it with UV, but at the expense of poisoning you fish.
Interesting concept,don't know how true it is, but interesting concept none the less. Algae does consume ammonia.
I guess if you follow that logic it could also be argued that if you allow the algae to flourish it will consume all the ammonia nutrient, which is precisely what nitrifying bacteria (Nitrosomonas) need to grow and establish themselves, thus by allowing the algae to flourish you could be starving out, or at the very least, hindering the establishment of a healthy nitrifying bacteria colony.

Your turn. ;)
 

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Yes, you can say algae feeds on ammonia, but not directly. It is first transformed by bacteria, twice. This is a good diagram to show the process.
 
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Interesting concept,don't know how true it is, but interesting concept none the less. Algae does consume ammonia.
I guess if you follow that logic it could also be argued that if you allow the algae to flourish it will consume all the ammonia nutrient, which is precisely what nitrifying bacteria (Nitrosomonas) need to grow and establish themselves, thus by allowing the algae to flourish you could be starving out, or at the very least, hindering the establishment of a healthy nitrifying bacteria colony.

Your turn. ;)

It is possible that allowing the algae to flourish while the pond is cycling could slow down the cycling process. I dont know. I just think that if there is going to be a thread saying that a UV is needed to keep a pond clear etc, the good info, as well as the bad, should be provided.
 
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Actually Amy, algae does feed directly on ammonia (with out conversion into nitrite and then nitrates) , so do many aquatic plants actually. Try a Google search on the subject, it's quite interesting. Maybe start by reading this thread.
 
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It is possible that allowing the algae to flourish while the pond is cycling could slow down the cycling process. I dont know. I just think that if there is going to be a thread saying that a UV is needed to keep a pond clear etc, the good info, as well as the bad, should be provided.
I understand, somebody needs to play the antagonist. That's usually my favorite role. :p
 
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Actually Amy, algae does feed directly on ammonia (with out conversion into nitrite and then nitrates) , so do many aquatic plants actually. Try a Google search on the subject, it's quite interesting. Maybe start by reading this thread.
It is possible that allowing the algae to flourish while the pond is cycling could slow down the cycling process. I dont know. I just think that if there is going to be a thread saying that a UV is needed to keep a pond clear etc, the good info, as well as the bad, should be provided.
Algae consumes ammonia directly.
Well this turned into an interesting conversation guys with some interesting concepts,
I had originally put the list up there for people just starting out to check against, not a discussion about cycling ponds etc but welcome it all the same
Amy I loved the diagram and the interesting artcle you linked into for us :happy: strange too that this company isnt too fr as the crow flies from where Val and I are in Plymouth infact we use a koi dealership in that area.:cool:
Randy I like your idea about the over sized UV-C acting as a sterilizer , I've never acttually come across a pond sterilizer in all my years of looking for one to replace the one we used o have on the indoor setup.
I think the sterilizers mentioned however are for fish tanks if you note the hook on one end , I think its for hanging agaist the glass

Dave
 
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Amy

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That's what makes these forums great. Good conversation and learning from each other.

Since this is a UV sterilizer thread, I don't often see people in ponds talk about the benefits of a UV in combating ich. This is a common practice in saltwater(although I've never used one)

Having not had a freshwater aquarium for years and being brand new to ponds, I am wondering what peoples thoughts are on this benefit, or is ich more easily defeated in it's freshwater form?
 
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It would only be effective against ich if all if the bacteria actually went through the sterilized. Ich attaches to the fish and feeds and then drops off and can split multiply itself by up to 10.
 
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That's what makes these forums great. Good conversation and learning from each other.

Since this is a UV sterilizer thread, I don't often see people in ponds talk about the benefits of a UV in combating ich. This is a common practice in saltwater(although I've never used one)

Having not had a freshwater aquarium for years and being brand new to ponds, I am wondering what peoples thoughts are on this benefit, or is ich more easily defeated in it's freshwater form?
It would only be effective against ich if all if the bacteria actually went through the sterilized. Ich attaches to the fish and feeds and then drops off and can split multiply itself by up to 10.
Sadly Amy a bit of wishful thinking there , Dieselplower is indeed correct it can take up to three threatments of Malachite and formalin to completely irradicate it as you have to knock out the free swimming juviniles then wait for the thousands of eggs shed by the mature adults to hatch to irradicate the rest

Dave
 

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