well fed open system pond

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Hi all. I'm hoping someone can explain this to me. I have a 16000 gal pond and falls which is supplied with water from 3 wells using pool pumps. there is no other equipment . The pond currently maintains water level with 2 additional wells with skimmer baskets. Depths vary from 1-2 ft to 8'-10' and at 8' the floor of the pond (natural oolite) is 2 ft below the aquafer's water level. I have fairly consistant string algae blooms in the pond and perpetual string algae on the falls. Despite this the water is crystal clear although green colored. A local pond company has suggested several ways to combat the algae but there is one suggestion which makes no sense to me. They would like to use a 3 HP pool pump and a UV sterilizer on the water which is in the pond. I'm confused as to ho this can possibly work. With the water in the pond being replaced at the same rate it enters from 3 pumps as well as percolating both in and out of the aquafer it seems to me that any size UV system would at best just function as a clarifier which, I really don't need. And I'm not sure it would even do that. Here is a partial view of the pond.
Thanks for any feedback you can offer
 

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MoonShadows

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Welcome! Sorry I don't have an answer, but that is one beautiful pond. I'm sure some one with much more experienced will be able to help you with some sound advice.
 
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Welcome!
You have a constant problem with string algae because phosphate is not being removed from your pond.
As the string algae grows and dies back, it is consuming phosphate as it grows and releases it back into the water as it dies.
Phosphate is found in decaying organic matter and in the food you feed your fish, if you have any.
It would be a good idea to test the source water for phosphate as well.
 
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I can explain how it works...the local pond company makes money by selling you stuff. Very, very common issue.

Luckily you understand more about ponds then most people. You are absolutely correct about the UV doing nothing for you because of the pond type you have. I'll add UV isn't needed (probably) because you say your water is clear...but green. That makes me think the green is just the light interaction with string algae, and/or other macro type algae. I've heard this before, can be confusing. So that we understand "clear" would mean you can see stuff underwater. Then there are levels of clear. Seeing fish or you hand 1' below the surface, seeing fish 4' down, seeing shadows of fish on the bottom, etc... "Clear" generally means very little suspended micro algae and therefore UV can't improve that.

UV doesn't kill string algae.

You have clear water and string algae. Hear that a lot. I hear about people with green ponds and no string algae, clearing the pond water and then dealing with string algae. I'm of the opinion, with some testing, that string algae produces a chemical that kills green water algae. Norm Meck (2006) found water from clear ponds killed green water algae almost on contact. An experiment that is easy to reproduce. His theory is the chemical is produced by a bacteria. My theory is it's produced by string algae. It's a very common trait in the plant world and has been seen in ocean algae. And I did some experiments adding string algae to green water which convinced me enough.

To me string algae is something to control rather than try to eliminate. Here in AZ grass carp (White Amur) are used to control sting algae and they do an excellent job. Impressive fish to boot. Most states ban or control their use. Here a special permit is needed and only sterile fish can be used. Don't know where you live. But there are other fish that eat string algae.

There are also oxidizers that can be poured on to the string algae to kill it, or the entire pond treated. Very temporary and for your size pond and that it isn't lined I wouldn't bother with chemicals at all. You also then have a bunch of dead algae to deal with. There are tools (rakes and such) for pulling string algae out. Normally only done when it's a serious problem, so maybe once a year.

Trying to eliminate a specific nutrient or sunlight to control string algae is normally a losing battle. In a non-lined pond there is absolutely no way it can work. I wouldn't worry about nutrients, they are what they are. It takes very few nutrients for algae to grow, even fewer to stay alive.
 

sissy

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you say nothing about fish and I see no plants .To me sounds like a swimming hole or pool rather than a pond and maybe needs treated as such with chemicals
 

j.w

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Nice looking big pond. What kind of stone is that waterfall made out of. Almost looks like hay bales but must be some kind of concrete blocks w/plant material growing on it. Do you have any fish in it? I see you love Cichlid's so maybe you have those in there?
 

Meyer Jordan

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It would be a good idea to test the source water for phosphate as well.
This should absolutely be your first course of action. Some well water is notorious for being high in Nitrate and/or Phosphorus.
What do you estimate to be the turn-over rate for your pond?
 
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Hi all and thank you for the input. Yes, I have around 20 breeding colonies (one male to 7 or eight females) of various types of cichlids and have started with giant iris, 2 types of papyrus , horsetail rush, bull rush and cannas. They're all growing nicely and have had no problem becoming established. The waterfall is constructed of the same porous limestone,(oolite) and was all quarried here on property. The limestone acts as a natural filter for all groundwater and is one reason our water is so clear. By clear I mean completely transparent to any depth. When I say that it is green, Waterbug explained it perfectly. The water in the pond appears grean because of the light interacting with the algae that settled to the bottom..
 
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They did sprinkle some powder (Sodium Percarbonate)on the surface algae and it instantly lifted so it could be netted and skimmed off but because of the scale of the falls, to use enough on them to be effective would most likely be too much for the fish. I'm beginning to think Waterbug is probably also right in terms of what I should or need to accomplish here. Control vs elimination...Do you think adding a water jetting finger or two in the shallows might help keep the bottom any less mucky by lifting it so that the skimmers can catch more of it?
 
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Not sure this pond is being understood...maybe I don't. My understanding is water is being pumped from the aquifer via wells and water in the pond is percolating back into the aquifer at about the same rate as the pumping. This is done to keep the pond's water level up. If that's true then any kind of chemical (additives, nutrient messing, etc...) would evolve the aquifer. Basically this pond is doing a 100% water change every day, or couple of days, not sure, but fast. Oxidizers can be applied locally and work fast, so that kind chemical would have at lease some effect. But trying to keep say a chorine level up in such a pond would seem to be a difficult and very expensive task. Also, I assume, hope, wherever this pond is located there are laws against adding things like copper sulphates to the aquifer. Unless of course this is in the US and you're a coal mine owner in which case you're free to dump away and it's everyone else's problem to deal with.
 
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This should absolutely be your first course of action. Some well water is notorious for being high in Nitrate and/or Phosphorus.
What do you estimate to be the turn-over rate for your pond?
Not sure in terms of gallons but because the skimmer wells and the percolation thru the limestone maintain the water level despite the constant incoming flow from the pumps I imagine its pretty high. Other than adding plants I'm not sure how to balance the water?
 

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