What type of water tester is best?

[mgmine]

I see that there are at least two types of test kits, those with a liquid and those with test strips. Which is better and why?

 

[sissy]

liquid
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[dieselplower]

I prefer the liquid as I find them to be more precise.

 

[fishin4cars]

I use both, Liquid drops by API are what I recommend to anyone that is not familiar with testing. Far more precise and accurate. But you have to test to get any good out of them. That's why I also use API test strips as well. I can test all my ponds and tanks in under 5 minutes with strips. That's a huge difference than the 30 minutes to an hour that it would take for me to test everything with drop kits. For me personally I go through a bottle of strips in less than two weeks so they don't have time to really go bad as long as I keep them dry. If I see any indication of something out of balance, or not in line for some reason I test right away with the drops. I also just check with drops periodically to make sure the two are matching with some degree of accuracy.
One thing I like to throw out for anyone starting out and learning testing and what to look for. Keep a journal. A written booklet that lets you physically see what each test reads over a period of time. No water stays exact all the time, as water matures it changes and these slight changes are signs we look for. Some can be harmless if only slightly elevated but they are the signs we look for to adjust over time. some can be very problematic, and we want to know these changes right away. By keeping a journal not only do you have a detail of what is going on for you to compare with and learn from, you also have something you can post that is VERY helpful for more experienced pond keepers to work with if you do need help. Water testing took me a long time to really figure out. I mean I knew I needed the PH to be in a certain range, but what I didn't know is how to tell how the PH effected ammonia, How KH effected PH, How temps effected these readings and how fatal one reading could be in one range and how little it effected the fish in another.
Here is an example of how I try and get new clients or friends to set their journals up. Also gives a list of what tests are needed and what other valuable information you can have at hand that might help bring forth information that is needed to help diagnose a problem.
size of pond, gallons/liters, dimensions, type of fish, sizes, and the # in the body of water, type and size of filtration that is being used, This should be written down and kept up with, these are your fixed variables, in other words, no two ponds will be the same, but they only change by YOU in your pond.
second is the ever changing variables in everyone's pond.
Ammonia Nitrite Nitrate Ph Kh GH temperature, If you decide to use salt a refractometer or some way of testing the amount of salt in the water is a good idea, and if battling algae problems phosphate test kit should also be added. These should be set up with a date test done, a column with when water was changed and how much, and a brief description of filter maintenance. This information can really make a difference when your coming to a store, professional, or forum for help. It allows others to see more of what has been going on and what is presently happening. Also it's a good idea to make a note when you add new fish, or if one passes away or disappears from the pond, or if anything such as medication, algaecides, or other pond related products are added and when, with the dosage used.
Water testing is a valuable part of learning what is going on and why, If it's done regularly it can help prevent many problems IF you learn what to do and why, By testing and applying what is needed to maintain water you can in most cases eliminate the use of medications for the most part so the two costs pretty much equal out but in the long run you still save money because you don't lose nearly as many fish when they are healthy than when they are sick.
Two things I have learned that I feel are very important to successful pond keeping. #1 Filtration, this is the HEART of a pond, This IMO is the one area that should never be skimped on, it doesn't have to be expensive to be effective, but it must be effective to sustain the life of the pond. 2# Water quality is the single most important thing needed to keep healthy fish. Anyone with money can buy an expensive fish, But a fish doesn't have to be expensive to be beautiful and healthy, Water quality if learned can be very low cost and allow any fish to be beautiful in it's keepers eyes.

 

[dieselplower]

I use both, Liquid drops by API are what I recommend to anyone that is not familiar with testing. Far more precise and accurate. But you have to test to get any good out of them. That's why I also use API test strips as well. I can test all my ponds and tanks in under 5 minutes with strips. That's a huge difference than the 30 minutes to an hour that it would take for me to test everything with drop kits. For me personally I go through a bottle of strips in less than two weeks so they don't have time to really go bad as long as I keep them dry. If I see any indication of something out of balance, or not in line for some reason I test right away with the drops. I also just check with drops periodically to make sure the two are matching with some degree of accuracy.
One thing I like to throw out for anyone starting out and learning testing and what to look for. Keep a journal. A written booklet that lets you physically see what each test reads over a period of time. No water stays exact all the time, as water matures it changes and these slight changes are signs we look for. Some can be harmless if only slightly elevated but they are the signs we look for to adjust over time. some can be very problematic, and we want to know these changes right away. By keeping a journal not only do you have a detail of what is going on for you to compare with and learn from, you also have something you can post that is VERY helpful for more experienced pond keepers to work with if you do need help. Water testing took me a long time to really figure out. I mean I knew I needed the PH to be in a certain range, but what I didn't know is how to tell how the PH effected ammonia, How KH effected PH, How temps effected these readings and how fatal one reading could be in one range and how little it effected the fish in another.
Here is an example of how I try and get new clients or friends to set their journals up. Also gives a list of what tests are needed and what other valuable information you can have at hand that might help bring forth information that is needed to help diagnose a problem.
size of pond, gallons/liters, dimensions, type of fish, sizes, and the # in the body of water, type and size of filtration that is being used, This should be written down and kept up with, these are your fixed variables, in other words, no two ponds will be the same, but they only change by YOU in your pond.
second is the ever changing variables in everyone's pond.
Ammonia Nitrite Nitrate Ph Kh GH temperature, If you decide to use salt a refractometer or some way of testing the amount of salt in the water is a good idea, and if battling algae problems phosphate test kit should also be added. These should be set up with a date test done, a column with when water was changed and how much, and a brief description of filter maintenance. This information can really make a difference when your coming to a store, professional, or forum for help. It allows others to see more of what has been going on and what is presently happening. Also it's a good idea to make a note when you add new fish, or if one passes away or disappears from the pond, or if anything such as medication, algaecides, or other pond related products are added and when, with the dosage used.
Water testing is a valuable part of learning what is going on and why, If it's done regularly it can help prevent many problems IF you learn what to do and why, By testing and applying what is needed to maintain water you can in most cases eliminate the use of medications for the most part so the two costs pretty much equal out but in the long run you still save money because you don't lose nearly as many fish when they are healthy than when they are sick.
Two things I have learned that I feel are very important to successful pond keeping. #1 Filtration, this is the HEART of a pond, This IMO is the one area that should never be skimped on, it doesn't have to be expensive to be effective, but it must be effective to sustain the life of the pond. 2# Water quality is the single most important thing needed to keep healthy fish. Anyone with money can buy an expensive fish, But a fish doesn't have to be expensive to be beautiful and healthy, Water quality if learned can be very low cost and allow any fish to be beautiful in it's keepers eyes.

Can you please comment on what sort of consistency you find when testing the same water with strips and then drops? Are they close? I used to use strips but ended up finding them useless and threw them away.

 

[Tula]

Good tip about using stops and drops. Kim

 

[fishin4cars]

Can you please comment on what sort of consistency you find when testing the same water with strips and then drops? Are they close? I used to use strips but ended up finding them useless and threw them away.

I use API strips, and API drops. IF you buy them when they are fresh and not been sitting on a shelf for a long time they are very close. Ammonia will give some false readings in the higher ranges, But if I see anything on the ammonia test strip I'm heading straight to the drop kit anyway. KH and GH IMO, are actually a little more accurate on the test strips than the drop kits and far easier to read. two things I have found that can really make test strips a bad thing to rely on, Absolutely no moisture in the bottle. Do not remove the little moisture absorbing pack in the bottle, and do not remove strips with wet hands. I take 5 strips out while inside and then close the bottle. then go outside and run the quick tests. second thing and most important IMO, test the two against each other and get familiar with the different readings on the charts. The charts are set up a little different between the two test kits so you need to get familiar with what they read in comparison to each other. I must stress, I only use them for a quick test to save time. I DO NOT RELY SOLEY ON TEST STRIPS.
Also, when purchasing test kits, Be sure and check expiration dates, test strips are good for less than 1 year after manufactured, drop kits are suppose to have a two year shelf life, I do not find this to be true. Drop kits can give false readings if they have been left open or are close to or out of date.

 

[dieselplower]

thanks

 

[bettasngoldfish]

great info!

thanks for sharing