Woodworkers, I could use some input.

Mmathis

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I am about to start on a craft project that involves attaching pieces of wood together. Due to the nature of the project, I was only planning to use wood glue to attach the pieces to each other. But I noticed that the pieces [they're square, wooden plaques] aren't perfectly flat, and will have a gap in some places. If I glue and clamp them in place, will that be enough and will the glue hold? I was thinking I might have to sand the back sides of each plaque [I'm adhering back side to back side] to get the surfaces more level.....

This is my "design," and this is the type of wooden plaques I'm using. This will be the platform for some TP holders, with wooden dowel through the center to stack TP rolls.
image.jpg



And here's the concept.....except for 3 layers of wood instead of 2, for more stability.
image.jpg
 
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Im not a woodworking expert but im always doing projects involving wood. If you glue the pieces of wood together while they are uneven you will see the gaps between wood pieces and it wont look very nice. The clamps will help keep together the pieces of wood touching each other and will dry and hold providing you use a strong wood glue. The clamps wont reshape the wood or bend them to dry without gaps as that wood looks thick and not sure but looks like oak. Id sand the peices of wood to make them flat then glue
 

sissy

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I would use construction glue but to be honest you could use any wood glue just sand the smooth surface to roughen it up that you are going to glue and make sure it is dust free .Then clamp them together after gluing .But you could also predrill and put screws through the bottom of each layer .You would have to make sure the screws are set deeper in the wood .You could use glue in combo with this idea .Each layer would hide the screws and you would only need 2 screws for each layer .You just need to make sure the screws are set deeper in the wood .You could even put the top 2 layers together and screw them together and put bottom board on last.All would still need some wood glue and all screws would need to be countersunk .Instead of 6 screws with the second method you would only need 4 screws .Just make sure they are the right length screws
 

Marshall

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Glue them together and whe dry add a wood filler in the gaps and sand it smooth. If you glue the pieces under tension you are just asking for a crack in the wood in the future as soon as the humidity changes and the wood swells. Also the entire joint could fail even with a good wood glue as it is not really designed to be in tension all the time. (Experience? my father was a carpenter and taught me a few tricks :D )
 

sissy

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most wood at hobby stores is dry and once painted you should have no problem with the wood .Screws should hold it with glue .I have not really had many problems with kiln dried wood that is primed and painted
 

Mmathis

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When I looked more closely, I realized that there was only 1 piece that was significantly warped, and I bought extra pieces, so it looks like they're going to fit pretty good. Thanks all for the input, but keep it coming 'cause I'm not through with the project yet! :)
 
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Three layers will not give it more stability what you will need is a larger base. The first and second layer should have a hole drilled through to hold the dowel in place.
 
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Use a high quality wood adhesive. You are on the right track by using clamps.

TIPS:
Sand and clean each plaque to suit before aligning.

Using one plaque at a time, measure along the top, bottom and side "edges" to determine the vertical and horizontal side edge mid points. As you proceed lightly place a pencil dot at each edge midpoint.

Using a ruler or other straight edge to connect the right to the left midpoint marks along with top and bottom edge midpoints.

IF PAINTING - Lightly draw a line from the right to left and top to bottom edge mid points.

IF STAINING - Use painters tape to connect to connect the right to left and top to bottom edge mid points. EXTRA TIP: Lightly draw an arrow on each strip of tape to indicate the aligned edge. Repeat the process for each plaque.

Now dry set each plaque in place so that the lines intersect. Mark these intersects with a pencil or painters tape. If using painters tape use a blade to score the inside edge of the tape. This allows you to align and adhere the plaques then remove the tape without leaving excess tape.

After the plaques are glued in place erase all pencil marks or remove all tape and erase the edge midpoint dots.

After the adhesive is thoroughly dry fill any gaps with filler. If staining be sure to use a stainable filler. Use it sparingly. Note - if staining you may want to stain first then apply a precolored filler.

Good luck
 
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As I said the stability will come from the base size and not extra layers. The easiest way to do it would be a larger base with a pipe flange attached to the base and then a short length of pipe. No gluing or anything else needed. I would be happy to make a base (or bases) with a fancy edge for free just pay shipping.
 

Mmathis

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@MitchM @Big Lou @mgmine Thanks for the replies, and now another couple of questions for you.....

Of the 3 types of bits, I've only had experience with hole saw, though am aware of the other 2. I'll be drilling through 2"+ wood depth, completely through all layers.

  1. Is one bit preferable over the other 2 for this application?
  2. Which one is most likely to give me a more accurate hole diameter? I need for a 1" dowel to fit in just shy of snug, or just enough to accept a coating of wood glue.
  3. I also need the hole to be as level and straight as possible -- I don't have a drill press....
  4. And since I don't have a drill press, any suggestions for obtaining a nice, straight and level hole?
PS -- will be headed to Home Depot this morning....
 

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