Building automatic aeration pond sweep

[crsublette]

Looks like you're pretty much almost finished with this project so might be too late for me to share. I found a good thread that might help, understanding currents within a pond to obtain a self cleaning pond.

 

[multifasited]

Multifasited, I like this implementation. It's the same idea behind GPRs and TPRs creating a current so the fish waste and other sinking particulates, do not have a chance to settle on the ground, get pushed into bottom drains.

I am still trying to understand your diagram. Are your tubing with holes in it just a water jet stream angled toward the floor pushing the stuff to the center of the pond floor?? Are ya using a bottom drain that sucks this stuff up in the center??

In the upper pond ,that 1 1/2' center pipe is slotted connected to a 6x6" collection box w/ 1/6 hp sumppump pumping to my diy TT ,the outer ring is fed by another 1/6 hp sump pumping into 1/2" electrical conduit 3/32" holes every 10 " ,theres a ring connected to the pump in both single feed teed both rings hole slightly up from horizontal creating a nice gentle cross current,in top pond to long drain pipe ,bottom pond to 1/3 hp main sump in milk crate perferated S.S. 1/8 " holes stops big stuff rest goes split to SG filter and my 250 gal bio tank ,TT gravity feeds top Bio tank ,I installed venturi in sweep circuit ,too much turbulance for my likeing ,I left sweep off for 3 hours ,and the bottom started collecting ,so it at least proves ,to me how effective it is ,so now I put air stones in front of sweep in least noticeable area ,and new venturi at enterance to spray bar on TT .Probbably .open sweep holes to 1/8" just to insure less clogging ,installing a Tee and cap plug in sweep line ,so if need be I can Blow out, sweep line, Have sand on bottom particals could be a issue w/ 3/32' holes . [GPR-TPR s ?] Hope that helps!

 

[crsublette]

Very good. That does help! I appreciate it.

Yeah, keep us posted on how it works out, if it is still working as intended after a week or so. Good stuff.

I installed venturi in sweep circuit

"sweep circuit" ya referring to the outer ring pipe??


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Yeah, gravity pond returns (gpr) and tangential pond returns (tpr). Essentially, they're like the jets in the wall of a swimming pool, but gpr/tpr jets are more gentle and placed accordingly to get the pond to stir, which creates a vortex allowing debris to settle and be sucked by a bottom drain in the vortex's center. I've never heard of such things when I did my project plus I also have a small polished river rock bottom so I have been thinking how I could do a retro workaround thing. All the return bottom drains I have seen are too big for my setup. So, I think I am gonna do something like what you did, make it work into my river rock bottom in a way so to hide it a little.

Aerated bottom drains push a column of air from the top of the drain. This extra push up, directly above the drain, adds more current to help the debris get pushed into the drain. Maybe rework your drain a little, have slits on the side of the pipe and a 1/4" soaker hose, as the air diffuser, laid on top down the line of the drain pipe. Something to think about.

 

[multifasited]

Charles ,My 10' bottom drain pipe ,and most fittings under water ,are not glued ,just tight fit ,the slots go about 1/6 th.the dia. deep in the pipe to allow for bottom and side pull ,hole angle can be adjusted by twisting the sweep pipe to find best results ,aeration ,is a different matter as floating and movement become a issue ,along with even dispersal of air bubbles ,I am convinced that multivalved air manifolds are the best controling mechenism ,weather Diy ,like a pipe with individual valves .at points selected,going to weighted exhausts ,or air stones ,forming a mini air reserve in the larger pipe,for even easy tuning ,and volume .I am afraid the soaker hose tied to the drain would want to float ,and any riseing of the loose end from horizonal would change airflow changing pressure riseing even more,smallest soaker hose I have found here is 1/2" holds a lot of air ,air is real tricky to work with especially under water ! I suppose the real ultimate answer to this is to infuse to changing point of air saturation external and circulate ,add air stones with valving as a buffer .

 

[crsublette]

Yeah, would have to weight down the soaker hose. I got the 1/4" size at a commercial landscaping business.

 

[multifasited]

The over riding issue for me and my layout is visabllity ,too much current causes distursion in the clarity ,controlling the flow of the water thru-out the pond as even as possible with just enough to get the job of sweeping done w/o really disturbing the water too much has been the chalenge ,this has been a learning experience from start to finish many changes from testing to actual finish designs always after the same goal the cleanest clearest undisturbed view possible ,can not explain fully how those final filters in the boxes at the waterfalls remove and collect imense quanities of affluent , making it all possible ,enjoyed the video ,would have liked to not have to put the plumping in the pond ,but I did so as suttally as possible ,this flow control and current flow w/o distortion in my mind is superior at least in my application.especially with 10' long bd.

 

[jhenkel]

Multi - Hi neighbor! In short, am I correct in understanding the pipe(conduit) is placed 1" off the pond bottom with the nozzles(drilled holes) pointing toward the center of the pond. In my case I have a sloped pond bottom (16-29") and no bottom drain so in theory the nozzles would point toward the deep end whereI have a sub pump that I've been using to clean the bottom, just from the suction of the pump. I plan to repipe before fall and was planning to install a retro drain so it sounds like this ring-around-the-rosie would assist in cleaning the pond. Now that I've joined your decade , maintenance is now a higher priority.

 

[multifasited]

Multi - Hi neighbor! In short, am I correct in understanding the pipe(conduit) is placed 1" off the pond bottom with the nozzles(drilled holes) pointing toward the center of the pond. In my case I have a sloped pond bottom (16-29") and no bottom drain so in theory the nozzles would point toward the deep end whereI have a sub pump that I've been using to clean the bottom, just from the suction of the pump. I plan to repipe before fall and was planning to install a retro drain so it sounds like this ring-around-the-rosie would assist in cleaning the pond. Now that I've joined your decade , maintenance is now a higher priority.

My FATHER ,told me when I was in my twenties ,teasing him about my speed and strenght,and his detailed approach to tasks ,HE SAID MY SON THE TIME WILL COME WHEN YOU WILL HAVE TO WORK SMARTER NOT HARDER,then added if you don't kill yourself ,first ! I can hear him more each day ! OLD saying TOO soon OLD too late SMART! Still working fine ,fish love the cross current! Size and flow rate to you situation ,conture and depth and distance ,algea will hide for you!

 

[jhenkel]

I think I understand your response - is that not scary ???

 

[multifasited]

HOW THAT HAPPEN!

 

[jhenkel]

That's the scary part - AMEN!!!

 

[multifasited]

Must be 14 lustrums!

 

[jhenkel]

Ya got that right

 

[multifasited]

Ya got that right

Scraped the venturi idea for additional aeration too hard to control.pump and pipe size have major effect on hole size and number of holes and there placement .Not rocket science ,26 '1/2" pipe ten sweep elbows 5/32 holes every ten " been running a month now ,added a tee w/ cap center each loop ,just in case I ever have to blow them out from algea or any restriction s ,fish love the extra current.Replaced leaking 250 g bio tank with gaged 330 g should have everything back together in a couple days fasades and all tank size required modifications ,final filters work like a dream.one happy camper!

 

[jhenkel]

Thanks for the update - looks like it'll be a few weeks before I get to my install