bacteria.. just the basics

koiguy1969

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i cut and pasted just the basic information on pond and filter bacteria from an internet article for those who dont know, and are interested.....

Pond bacteria exists in all ponds, large or small. However, there is both good and bad pond bacteria. The good bacteria (aerobic bacteria) exists to efficiently keep organic waste such as fish waste, excess food, dead vegetation and even fertilizer run-off broken down before they can cause water quality problems. The bad bacteria (anaerobic bacteria) is the bacteria that produces the offensive odors and poor water quality. Under certain conditions the pond’s ecosystem gets out of balance and the natural levels of beneficial pond bacteria is unable to keep up with the waste levels of the pond. This can be due to over population of fish, over feeding or maybe a hard rain that washed high levels of debris into the pond.

When the beneficial pond bacteria becomes unable to degrade the waste in a timely manner, oxygen levels can drop and anaerobic bacteria starts to become prevalent producing hydrogen sulfide (odors) and poor water quality
 

oldmarine

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Koiguy,

I can't remember where I saved this from, but I have refered back to it several times since I saved it. It might even be one of your quotes.

What Causes Pond Algae and How to Control it.


The two most common forms of algae that ponds experience are planktonic algae and filamentous algae. Planktonic algae is the type that gives pond that distinctive pea green, soupy color. Planktonic algae in moderation is very important as is the base of the food chain in a pond. However, it is when it is in excess that you get the green water.

Filamentous algae is what you typically see growing on rocks and floating on the surface in mats. It is the stringy, hairlike algae that you often see in the spring and summer months. It has little redeeming value.

Algae in moderation is good for a pond, but when it becomes over abundant, it can cause severe water quality problems. Algae consumes oxygen at night to continue its life cycle, so when there is a severe outbreak, large amounts of oxygen are consumed and can seriously deplete the dissolved oxygen level in a pond to a point that cause fish kills. Not to mention that fact this its flat out unsightly.

Algae blooms are caused by three factors: excess nutrients, too much sunlight and low oxygen levels.

Nutrients come from a variety of sources, most notable fish and animal waste, fish food and dead/decaying vegetation. Other sources would include fertilizer run-off and run-off from nearby farms and pastures. All of these sources provide much needed nitrogen and phosphorus that algae need to bloom and grow.

Ponds that sit in direct sunlight or have very few aquatic plants are also at risk of suffering from algae problems. This is why generally the most and worst algae problems occur in the summer when the days are longest.

Finally, ponds that experience poor oxygen levels will also suffer from algae control issues. When there are high levels of waste in ponds that are stagnant and still, oxygen levels can be depleted due to the amount of oxygen needed to break down the waste. Algae blooms come and go, but when there is little dissolved oxygen in the water, dying algae will feed new cycles of living algae because there is not enough oxygen to break down the dead vegetation before it can fuel more growth.

First of all, algae should not be looked upon as a problem. It is merely a symptom and a sign that there are other problems and that your pond is out of balance. What it means is that one or more of the causes above are the true problems.

A short term, quick fix is to use an algaecide. However this is just a short term solution because when you simply kill the algae and leave it to degrade on its own, it will just fuel re-growth. A quick kill can also cause an oxygen depletion, which can stress or even kill fish.

The ideal approach for using an algaecide for quick algae control would be to use the algaecide as a pre-cursor to the long-term approach discussed below.

A more sound and lasting approach would be to control the causes of the algae growth – nutrients, sunlight and oxygen.

Nutrient control involves limiting the amount of nutrients that enter that water that can feed algae. This can range from manually skimming debris and waste from the pond, physically removing the algae, installing an effective filtration system or limiting the number of aquatic inhabitants, but it should always involve the use of beneficial pond bacteria. Pond bacteria is crucial in breaking down and degrading all types of organic waste and should be used regularly.

Reducing sunlight penetration is a more difficult because you only have so much control over that, but a good pond dye and even the addition of aquatic plants can help to shade the water and limit the sun’s effect. A good rule of thumb would be 60%-70% coverage with plants.

Improving the oxygen levels in a pond can be done with a pond aerator or even a pond fountain. The infusion of oxygen will invigorate pond bacteria, making them more efficient at their job, while also keeping the pond water circulating (another deterrent to algae growth).

Effective algae control begins with knowledge and understanding of the type of algae you have and what causes the algae to grow. Once you have armed yourself with the proper information, treating the causes and controlling the sources become more manageable. Then, year after year, preventative maintenance becomes second nature and severe algae blooms become less and less of a concern.

Happy ponding,

Rich :)
 

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If i were really good with my computer i would move this to a
Bacteria & Algae Control Section
 

DrDave

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"Garden Pond Articles" was created just for information like this. Your thread title becomes the folder under that general topic.
 
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I for one do not agree with most of these links. Most of them just want to sell chemicals or barley or other junk that only treats symptoms. If you could buy patience every pond would be a success!
 

koiguy1969

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exactly what is it that you dont agree with on this page? aside of the mention of using a chemical algecide (non specific at that)?
 
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I have had my pond up and running for 8yrs. Fortunately it has been trouble free in reference to algae. It is my opinion that you can successfully maintain a pond without the use of any chemical.
koiguy1969 said:
exactly what is it that you dont agree with on this page? aside of the mention of using a chemical algecide (non specific at that)?
 

fishin4cars

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I agree, a pond CAN be kept with 100% no chemicals being added and no UV light. I have one pond that has been running for about 15 month's absolutely no green or cloudy water, ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, all read at the bottom of the scale consistently. However, just on the other side of the bridge, Slightly bigger pond, basically the same filtration, fish load about the same. Again, Constant ammonia, nitrite and nitrate minimal readings, As far as water test, the only difference I really ever read is slight differences in KH depending on rain and baking soda additions. I try to keep between 100-140 but occasionally I over hit with baking soda on one or the other and one pond may climb to 160-180. I don't think this has a whole lot to do with algae growing but thought I would throw it out there for general information.
So here's the problem, the second pond I have fought algae blooms since start up. One thing I can say is QUITE different between the two, the addition of plants. The plant and butterfly koi pond always stays clear, the Higher quality koi pond with only a few plants and a smaller bog does not get clear. I have added UV light, I tried without success the Ion Gen II. Which works against string algae but is not effective for Green water if you would like to know. I have a pretty large water fall that is turning the water over once per hour, and a circulation pump that pumps 1/2 a total pond turn over every hour with 50% of the out put directed across the bottom of the pond and 50% across the surface to keep water from depleting of oxygen throughout the whole water column and have added air to the system to help keep Oxygen saturation high. I also have a large air pump running a large air diffuser up through the center of the pond. I have even gone as far as adding a tarp to shade the pond that covers aprox, 80% of the surface area, So at this point what would you do next? I have my plans for more fine filtration, but that takes money and time. I also want to note that I don't think the green water at this point is causing any harm to the fish or pond itself, other than making it hard to see if there is a fish lying on the bottom or possibly a injury I can't see.

I have a idea pretty much planned for the time being for my next line of attack. But I'm curious what others would do in this situation?
 

HTH

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Many of the algae related posts we have are from new people many with new ponds. They have to understand that if there filter has not fully cycled the algae is there protecting the fish by consuming the excess ammonia. Only when the filter is fully cycled does the above make any sense. Even then I would not suggest algaecide.

 

koiguy1969

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nor would i suggest an algecide... but that wasnt my posting. that said, some people use algecides with gret success. i simply posted a basic understanding of bacteria and its function. but oldmarines posting didnt mention a brand name of algecide. it just mentioned it as an option. so it wasnt a sales pitch. just an opinion.
 
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I never intended to criticize you and I do apologize. I was making reference to some of the web sights that people use for reference. Most of the time when click on those webs it is some company selling chemicals and barley. These companies mislead newcomers into thinking they have to buy all this junk to have a successful pond. Once again I do apologize to you and anyone else that I may have offended with my comments!!!!!!! I do believe in helping newcomers understand the eco. cycle and help them to be patient.
koiguy1969 said:
nor would i suggest an algecide... but that wasnt my posting. that said, some people use algecides with gret success. i simply posted a basic understanding of bacteria and its function. but oldmarines posting didnt mention a brand name of algecide. it just mentioned it as an option. so it wasnt a sales pitch. just an opinion.
 
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It sounds like you are right on the ball and have your real ponds setup very well. My pond has been up and running for 8yrs. and I never used a test kit until this yr. so I have a question. What is this KH test you made reference to? I also like your bottom return I can see were that would be very beneficial. Question in case of a power loss how do you prevent siphoning? What is your next plan of attack? I would increase my bio filter material. Keep up the good work.
fishin4cars said:
I agree, a pond CAN be kept with 100% no chemicals being added and no UV light. I have one pond that has been running for about 15 month's absolutely no green or cloudy water, ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, all read at the bottom of the scale consistently. However, just on the other side of the bridge, Slightly bigger pond, basicaave a dumb questionlly the same filtration, fish load ais your next plan of attackbout the same. Again, Constant ammonia, nitrite and nitrate minimal readings, As far as water test, the only difference I really ever read is slight differences in KH depending on rain and baking soda additions. I try to keep between 100-140 but occasionally I over hit with baking soda on one or the other and one pond may climb to 160-180. I don't think this has a whole lot to do with algae growing but thought I would throw it out there for general information.
So here's the problem, the second pond I have fought algae blooms since start up. One thing I can say is QUITE different between the two, the addition of plants. The plant and butterfly koi pond always stays clear, the Higher quality koi pond with only a few plants and a smaller bog does not get clear. I have added UV light, I tried without success the Ion Gen II. Which works against string algae but is not effective for Green water if you would like to know. I have a pretty large water fall that is turning the water over once per hour, and a circulation pump that pumps 1/2 a total pond turn over every hour with 50% of the out put directed across the bottom of the pond and 50% across the surface to keep water from depleting of oxygen throughout the whole water column and have added air to the system to help keep Oxygen saturation high. I also have a large air pump running a large air diffuser up through the center of the pond. I have even gone as far as adding a tarp to shade the pond that covers aprox, 80% of the surface area, So at this point what would you do next? I have my plans for more fine filtration, but that takes money and time. I also want to note that I don't think the green water at this point is causing any harm to the fish or pond itself, other than making it hard to see if there is a fish lying on the bottom or possibly a injury I can't see.

I have a idea pretty much planned for the time being for my next line of attack. But I'm curious what others would do in this situation?
 

fishin4cars

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Koiguy, I am going to start a new thread to continue this issue with my pond. I think I would like to see this one get back on topic about bacteria and the functions of them. Great Topic and I really hate to continue side tracking it.
Dave, (DPI) Please bring the conversation over to the new thread and we can continue this there. I'll be happy to discuss this further as it has been bothering me for quite some time now, Please take the time to visit my showcase thread so you can get a better idea what I have going on and you can see most of the pond build and how filtration and such are set up in my pond.
koiguy1969 said:
nor would i suggest an algecide... but that wasnt my posting. that said, some people use algecides with gret success. i simply posted a basic understanding of bacteria and its function. but oldmarines posting didnt mention a brand name of algecide. it just mentioned it as an option. so it wasnt a sales pitch. just an opinion.
 

koiguy1969

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no biggie Dave... no offence taken. some chemicals MAY have a place in extreme emergency cases. but i try to stay as natural as possible too.
fishin' i dont even know why the alge one was posted here instead of on its own. i mentioned this to IAN before... as many alge threads are started it should have its own forum catagorie!! you'll find alge questions in every form here.
 

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