Parked Shubunkin

[Dave 54]

Thank you for your advice. I'll certainly remember that. Trouble is, there is no dealership locally, only petshop that stock fishtanks: it's a small university town.

When the flukes treatment arrives, I should treat the pond water — Should the filters come out? Must the water be changed before or after treatment? I hope the instructions are clear as to the procedure.

Cerceau thanx for coming back so quickly as I forgot to ask what fluke treatment your getting, you see if its a US make I'm not that up on them not, me not having used them ......
The only two times I've treated where with Superverm, "Which I shouldnt have had as its an organtophosphate that is banned but if you know who to ask"
The second occasion I used the British Kusuri fluke M .
All you need do is turn of your U/V-C and follow the instructions to the letter and you should be fine, I always do a water change at the end of every treatment but give it a few day's before doing it .
Good luck PM me if necessary

Dave

 

[cerceau]

Alas, my resourcess are few, and there's nothing here locally. I've gotten a few nice fish from KoiToTheWorld, but have also gotten some questionable fish from them, as well. This spring I sprang for the "big leagues" and got 2 from RainGarden, based in Hawaii. VERY nice fish, but expensive for godlfish (Watonai). I will buy from them again, but only from KTTW, if I see one I can't live without.

Where do you live? Maybe someone on here is familiar with a breeder/seller close to you.

In the middle of Missouri. KTTW is precisely where I got the fish that died (and where they told me confidently, to my inquiry, that it was certainly the case of ich, which it was not).

 

[cerceau]

Cerceau thanx for coming back so quickly as I forgot to ask what fluke treatment your getting, you see if its a US make I'm not that up on them not, me not having used them ......
The only two times I've treated where with Superverm, "Which I shouldnt have had as its an organtophosphate that is banned but if you know who to ask"
The second occasion I used the British Kusuri fluke M .
All you need do is turn of your U/V-C and follow the instructions to the letter and you should be fine, I always do a water change at the end of every treatment but give it a few day's before doing it .
Good luck PM me if necessary

Dave

As per your suggestion, I ordered the Kusuri (there is a California dealer that charges 50% more than the UK on ebay, but I thought this would come sooner... It hasn't yet). No UV to turn off. A complete water change? That would be hard for me to do.

 

[Dave 54]

No I dint say a complete one cereau we take off about 20% of the water after treatment thats all nothing more than that , whats the problem with your water is it in sort supply or something ?

Dave

 

[cerceau]

No, it;s not the water supply, it's the logistics of replacing all of the 1,200 gallons, transferring the fish, reconditioning. But 20% should be easy enough.

 

[Dave 54]

No just because you've had flukes wouldnt mean changing all your water , one must never do that.

Dave

 

[cerceau]

@Dave 54

The Kusuri Fluke M is here at last. Is it to be added at the skimmer or waterfall end? The directions (which say that it should be added in the course of an hour) are unclear on that point, to me at least.

After reading some more, I now suspect that it was likely not flukes but a sudden crash or spike in pH: all the symptoms pointed to alkalosis or acidosis.
Still, I'll treat for flukes, just in case (no sign of disease in the pond two weeks on).

 

[Dave 54]

@Dave 54

The Kusuri Fluke M is here at last. Is it to be added at the skimmer or waterfall end? The directions (which say that it should be added in the course of an hour) are unclear on that point, to me at least.

After reading some more, I now suspect that it was likely not flukes but a sudden crash or spike in pH: all the symptoms pointed to alkalosis or acidosis.
Still, I'll treat for flukes, just in case (no sign of disease in the pond two weeks on).

cerceau you made no mention of a sudden drop in Ph nor other fish being affected by alkalosis or acidosis in your OP, so this beggars the question , "why this fish and not the others" , of which you make no mention ?
We can only go off what we see and have treated for ourselves over the years and the differing methods of treatment used [which weve already been over in a prior post ].
As you know parasites are normally tolerated to some extent in any pond and I'll bet you if you take a scrape from any fish and put it under the microscope you'll see the odd one or two on the slide.
However should a fish becomes weak," be that through a rough ride during transport, problems with your pond, lack of maintenance , of water changes anything in reality", then you'll see you see an explosion of parasite numbers, first on the host fish [of which you only have the senders say so of QT proceedures their end.
Compounded by a lack of QT proceedures at your end , thus the fish becomes infected, believe me or not when I say this, " it may well be a fact that your own fish are infecting it ", we simply dont know, only you have all the answers to those questions ....we can only surmise .
As to the instructions do as they say pour the treatment into the pond over an hour period stiring the treatment each time in the watering can prior to each dose then wash the watering can through with pond water afterwards treat only the exact amount for the gallonage of your pond not over nor under , [the exact].....
Why a watering can, simple, its the best way to cover every inch of the ponds surface evenly, however make sure its new and no garden chemicals have been used in it before . .
Add extra airstones and observe the fish throughout the period of the treatment .

Dave

 

[cerceau]

cerceau you made no mention of a sudden drop in Ph nor other fish being affected by alkalosis or acidosis in your OP, so this beggars the question , "why this fish and not the others" , of which you make no mention ?
We can only go off what we see and have treated for ourselves over the years and the differing methods of treatment used [which weve already been over in a prior post ].
As you know parasites are normally tolerated to some extent in any pond and I'll bet you if you take a scrape from any fish and put it under the microscope you'll see the odd one or two on the slide.
However should a fish becomes weak," be that through a rough ride during transport, problems with your pond, lack of maintenance , of water changes anything in reality", then you'll see you see an explosion of parasite numbers, first on the host fish [of which you only have the senders say so of QT proceedures their end.
Compounded by a lack of QT proceedures at your end , thus the fish becomes infected, believe me or not when I say this, " it may well be a fact that your own fish are infecting it ", we simply dont know, only you have all the answers to those questions ....we can only surmise .
As to the instructions do as they say pour the treatment into the pond over an hour period stiring the treatment each time in the watering can prior to each dose then wash the watering can through with pond water afterwards treat only the exact amount for the gallonage of your pond not over nor under , [the exact].....
Why a watering can, simple, its the best way to cover every inch of the ponds surface evenly, however make sure its new and no garden chemicals have been used in it before . .
Add extra airstones and observe the fish throughout the period of the treatment .

Dave

Thank you again. I can only surmise that pH crashed — I had not checked it before (it was normal later). It did seem to affect one goldfish that exhibited similar, though milder, behaviour, but it soon came round. Your conjecture makes perfect sense — except that there certainly was no lack of maintenance of the pond.

A watering can spraying over the entire surface of the pond?

Why extra airstones - does this treatment deplete oxygen? And what should one observe in the fish during the treatment?

Unfortunately, I don;t know the exact volume of water: the pond's shape is uneven, and so is its bottom. It's approx. 1,200 to 1,300 US gal.

 

[Dave 54]

Thank you again. I can only surmise that pH crashed — I had not checked it before (it was normal later). It did seem to affect one goldfish that exhibited similar, though milder, behaviour, but it soon came round. Your conjecture makes perfect sense — except that there certainly was no lack of maintenance of the pond.

A watering can spraying over the entire surface of the pond?

Why extra airstones - does this treatment deplete oxygen? And what should one observe in the fish during the treatment?

Unfortunately, I don;t know the exact volume of water: the pond's shape is uneven, and so is its bottom. It's approx. 1,200 to 1,300 US gal.

Cerceau your looking for excuses where there are non I repeat had you seen a drop in Ph you would have mentioned in in your original post which you didnt .
We can only go off what you tell us as you are our eyes and ears on the pond , a watering can is the best way to get even coverage of this treatment over the entire pond there is nothing remotely sinister in that and many koi keepers have one for this purpose .
Why the extra airstones ? .... its good fish husbadry nothing at all sinister in that its simply because this is what I do during any treatments on the pond simply because any treatment has an effect on the water perameters and must be checked as a matter of course "observations" again in hospital nurses observe and report on doctors patients do they not ... well the obsrvations are nothing more than that just because they are fish doesnt mean we dont give them the best of care does it ?
I cannot believe you dont know the exact volume of the pond most folks use a water meter when first adding water but no problem theres a simple formula to use Length x Width x Depth x 6 . 25 this will give you the gallons of the pond if you require litres then you x.54
Once you have the exact gallonage then write it down for future reference because you'll need it for other treatnents in the future.
You should never "aproximately", think you know the gallonage and treat that way it is both dangerous and your fish may well be underdosed or overdosed

Dave