Critique my preliminary pond plan...

[Rashad]

Is that a plan for a gravity fed skimmer? So the settlement pool is lower than the main pond, then the flow through bog/stream is even lower than that? Then the up flow bog is the highest part of the system, and gravity falls back down into the main pond? What's stopping the debris in the settlement pool from going to the bog/stream? Usually a skimmer traps debris in a basket. Seems like with this setup the debris is just passing through into the settlement area? Or does it go through the basket and then drop into the settlement pool?

The levels just seem a bit weird since from the fire pit you're looking first at the highest part of the pond and then won't see the settlement pool and the bog/stream well.

 

[LuapYllier]

Is that a plan for a gravity fed skimmer? So the settlement pool is lower than the main pond, then the flow through bog/stream is even lower than that? Then the up flow bog is the highest part of the system, and gravity falls back down into the main pond? What's stopping the debris in the settlement pool from going to the bog/stream? Usually a skimmer traps debris in a basket. Seems like with this setup the debris is just passing through into the settlement area? Or does it go through the basket and then drop into the settlement pool?

The levels just seem a bit weird since from the fire pit you're looking first at the highest part of the pond and then won't see the settlement pool and the bog/stream well.

The intention ( I think) is to have a skimmer with a basket to catch floating debris. The settlement pond would allow anything that got through the basket to settle to the bottom while the water goes over a negative edge type fall to the bog/stream. I am sure I will be putting something (not sure what yet) in the settlement pool so it isn't just bare water. I might put a drain there to the existing outfall pipe also to allow for water changes if needed.
Yes the main pond and fountain would be the attractions from the patio, window in the Florida room (large 80" by 45" picture window) and the deck to the bottom left. The settlement pond and stream would be viewed from the yard, the hot tub off the page to the left and the french doors in the master bedroom (that lead to the aforementioned deck)

 

[Rashad]

The intention ( I think) is to have a skimmer with a basket to catch floating debris. The settlement pond would allow anything that got through the basket to settle to the bottom while the water goes over a negative edge type fall to the bog/stream. I am sure I will be putting something (not sure what yet) in the settlement pool so it isn't just bare water. I might put a drain there to the existing outfall pipe also to allow for water changes if needed.
Yes the main pond and fountain would be the attractions from the patio, window in the Florida room (large 80" by 45" picture window) and the deck to the bottom left. The settlement pond and stream would be viewed from the yard, the hot tub off the page to the left and the french doors in the master bedroom (that lead to the aforementioned deck)

Ok. I think it would work, just seems a bit overly complicated. Is there a reason you don't want to do a normal setup where you have a pond, a skimmer and then a pipe that goes to the bog, or a normal negative edge setup with pond -> negative edge reservoir -> bog?

Personally I would make the pond bigger, include the area currently in the settlement pool, and make the bog bigger, have it use the area of the current bog and the flowthrough bog/stream and just have a skimmer in the bottom left with a long pipe in or out of the pond to feed the bog. If you prefer a negative edge, you could also have that in the bottom left area and get a secondary mini-waterfall.

 

[GBBUDD]

[.What are your suspected heights if pond is zero skimmer drops how much? etc etc

 

[LuapYllier]

@Rashad I am a fan of complicated unfortunately. It is not always a good thing but when I do something I tend to overdo something. Sure I could put a simple pond in...and honestly, probably should...but what fun is that? I really like the visual interest of the multiple levels and tiers, the variation of shapes etc. To give you an idea here is a picture of the 35 gallon trash can filter for the pond in my front patio...

https://imgur.com/tjg4516

@GBBUDD Unless my mind gets changed I was thinking the walls would be made of 8" tall CMU blocks. The Pond would be dug two blocks below the surface plus a bit of a bowl in the dirt. Above ground the pond would be two blocks tall with the water level (skimmer) set at the bottom or middle of the top block depending on the style of the skimmer. The bog would be one block higher and the settlement pool 1 block lower. The stream area would basically be around ground level with a short, regular brick, trim wall just to give it an edge. I have other flower beds around the yard with the same type of border. The sump would be below ground level. Done like this, again, depending on the skimmer i get, the port on the bottom of the skimmer might actually be below the water level of the settlement pool.

Overall the pond wall with cap stone should be around 22" or so off the ground, good sitting height. The bog wall would be about 30" high.

 

[GBBUDD]

Some very impressive pond builds

www.gardenpondforum.com

the third video is a fantastic buid that shpws what you can do with some thought and man power or hors e power

 

[LuapYllier]

what if the water level drops below skimmer height?


float switch

@brokensword Lets say I get a sump pump that comes with a float switch to cut it off if the water gets too low in the sump at the end of my flow through stream bog. If it cuts off it will save the pump, but it will completely shut down the whole system and the amount of water in the sump will not recover unless water is added to the system. So that switch on the pump turns off the power to the pump when the water gets too low. Can one like what you link here be flipped over or otherwise set to turn on power to say, an antisiphon irrigation valve that would be able to add water to the system? and if so I assume I would need to find some sort of adapter to convert the 110 power to whatever the valve solenoid uses? Maybe 12v?

 

[GBBUDD]

i have a power float switch in my cistern you plug in a 120 vt pump and when the water gets low the float drops the pump shuts off . the water continues to drain in from the pond as if there is no power the water level will drop 2" due to the negative edge. as the water builds up the float rises and the pump turns on this will delay the drop dead need for more water for quite some time.

 

[brokensword]

@brokensword Lets say I get a sump pump that comes with a float switch to cut it off if the water gets too low in the sump at the end of my flow through stream bog. If it cuts off it will save the pump, but it will completely shut down the whole system and the amount of water in the sump will not recover unless water is added to the system. So that switch on the pump turns off the power to the pump when the water gets too low. Can one like what you link here be flipped over or otherwise set to turn on power to say, an antisiphon irrigation valve that would be able to add water to the system? and if so I assume I would need to find some sort of adapter to convert the 110 power to whatever the valve solenoid uses? Maybe 12v?

either do what GB suggests, or realize that a pump that is 'fed' will always be in danger of going dry and burning up (hopefully any pump you buy has a thermal cutoff). That's why I designed with my pump in the pond; unless the pond goes dry down to the 12" mark, the pumps are protected. The float switch WILL turn your pump back on but of course, only if you give it the necessary supply. Not sure re your question other than to say the above; the float switch drops and cuts the electricity. When it fills back up, the float changes position and turns the electricity back on. So, you do the math.

btw, I think a float switch is good practice for ALL submersibles, mainly because you're protecting the pond too. I don't want any leak that might develop to drain the pond, hence the float switch(es) I use. I also have a timer for when I do top-offs; same idea as I don't want too much water added (wherein I wander off doing something else) which can create a problem and get under my liner.

 

[GBBUDD]

The only problem with float switches is the bigger the pump the more juice it draws and hotter the plug can get most switches are not designed for such heavy loads you need to make sure of what your buying and what your going to use with it