And here is a blog I started on it last year. There are photos of the area I want to build in.randythawkins said:
http://thehawkinsfamilypond.blogspot.com/
Never will be able to drain pond...is this a problem?
- Thread starter randythawkins
- Start date
http://thehawkinsfamilypond.blogspot.com/
fishin4cars
True friends just call me Larkin
Randy, I'm not that much more south than you. I've had to shut water falls down maybe a half dozen times for a total of maybe 15-20 days total over the last 20 years of pond keeping. I don't think you have anything to worry about as far as the bottom drain and returns are concerned. Now for the pleco question, I don't think you'll have much luck keeping Jake through the winter. I have kept some for a year or two without removing but eventually I almost always lose them through the winter months, By the time I see it's going to get the water cold enough to kill them it's to cold to get in and find them. keeping him out there during the month's when the water is 55-60 degrees are above they will do fine. For degassing, Air is by far the easiest way, and cheapest way to keep an opening in the ice. If you don't want it bringing water from the deep, suspend the air stone. I attach to a piece of floaty noodle from walmart and just let the stone hang about a foot in the water. I usually place it as close as possible to the skimmer without it being sucked in that way I can kick pumps back on as soon as the temps start warming back up. that's the shallow end of my pond anyway so it leaves the deepest water undisturbed.
One of my biggest concerns and maybe mucky can chime in on this. How do you plan on cleaning out the line when needed, such as brushing or unclogging? My BD line is almost 40' long, I'm planning on installing a clean out Y in above the Valve so I can open a cap and run a brush through mine. However, that's in thought and not been done yet. I'm looking for ideas as well.
One of my biggest concerns and maybe mucky can chime in on this. How do you plan on cleaning out the line when needed, such as brushing or unclogging? My BD line is almost 40' long, I'm planning on installing a clean out Y in above the Valve so I can open a cap and run a brush through mine. However, that's in thought and not been done yet. I'm looking for ideas as well.
fishin4cars said:
That's great information on how you handle the winter time and I like the idea of floating an airstone near the surface - I've not thought of that.
s for cleaning the BD pipe, I had to plans to have a way. From everything I've read I can't say that I have seen anything regarding that topic and, as for unclogging, I have read almost nothing - one post the guy said he had sticks clog at the BD itself and moving those freed everything up. I was under the impression that a large enough pipe and proper flow I would not have any problems. I could snake it from the SC end I suppose.
fishin4cars
True friends just call me Larkin
Being active on forums for the last several years I have seen a post here and a post there. usually it seems the biggest problem is string algae clogging right at the done or cover of the BD. But I've heard a few stories that did catch my attention enough to think about and plan somewhat in advance. My drain line being so long and deep I just think I need to have a back up plan just in case. may never need it and that would be fine by me, but not having a way to even attempt unclogging might be a bad after thought... LOL
Nice blog write up. I hope to be able to follow your progress through to completion. Ponds make fun family projects, my boys (and wife) were a fantastic help building both the ponds that we built.randythawkins said:
Larkin I tend to think like Randy (maybe because that's because we both have the same name LOL), in that the size of 3" or bigger pipe virtually eliminates the odds that it will get clogged up, especially if you have a dome with only a small opening around the edge, but I can't say I haven't thought about it what I might do if it did clog up. I always imagined that it would never be a complete clog, but rather something would get stuck in one of the elbows (yes I have four 90 deg elbows in my bottom drain line, five if you count the 90 deg turn in the drain itself), and the flow of water would become restricted, but still flowing. I thought what I could do at that point would be to get in the pond and feed some strong cord through drain and allow the remaining flow to suck the string through to the SC, then tie the string to something like the head of a toilet brush and pull it through the pipe to dislodge whatever might be stuck in there, all the while desperately praying that it wasn't one of my little turtles.
I know that these pond water lines can get a sort of slime coating in them that can build up, but I have only ever experienced a total clog just from the slime coating on a tiny 3/8" line, I don't think you could ever get coated enough to clog anything bigger than a 3/4" line, the slime just can't get that thick.
If i were to put in a clean out i would put in one fitting that being a two way cleanout so you could go both ways when needed
back to randy , im zone 7and shut down very little in the winter
if you could put a tee for a drain line at ground level it would give you protection from a long cold snap
back to randy , im zone 7and shut down very little in the winter
if you could put a tee for a drain line at ground level it would give you protection from a long cold snap
I have gotten a lot of input and feel I have made a decision..although I will probably never need it it would make me feel better to have it (like insurance) so I will place a T at the lowest point, right where the BD line comes out from under the pond wall and turns heading up hill to the SC (all that being about 2' under ground). With that T I will simply drop in a stand pipe and have it come slightly higher than the water level. If I ever need to empty the line I can simply close all applicable traps, drop a flexible line down the standpipe to the lowest point, and pump it all out.DrCase said:
And I do like hearing that can let the system run during the winter time.
Here are a few pics of my "pond" from last year. I post this with some humor attached (e.g. such a tiny pond) but, honestly, I did enjoy watching the plants grow. I purchased the liner from Lowe's with the intentions of using it in my 'real' pond's waterfall. Until then I decided to use it as a pond. No fish but did have a few frog visitors and an occasional stupid cat who wanted to have a refreshing drink.
I've never used it, but I installed a 1" T and valve on the pond side of my BDs main gate valve.
Not the clearest picture, as it sort of looks like the 1`T, elbow and valve are coming off the other 1`line rather than the 3`line.
I installed it so i could have a few options.
I could use it to hook a pump to and drain the pond, or I could reverse the flow and possibly clear and clogs in the line, or I though about running water from the other 1`return from the pond directly back to that line in the winter, bypassing the SC and keeping a pump and filter going in the winter.
Like I said, I`ve never used it, but installed it anyway so I could have those options.
Not the clearest picture, as it sort of looks like the 1`T, elbow and valve are coming off the other 1`line rather than the 3`line.
I installed it so i could have a few options.
I could use it to hook a pump to and drain the pond, or I could reverse the flow and possibly clear and clogs in the line, or I though about running water from the other 1`return from the pond directly back to that line in the winter, bypassing the SC and keeping a pump and filter going in the winter.
Like I said, I`ve never used it, but installed it anyway so I could have those options.
HTH
Howard
I am not so keen on gate valves and ponds especially for flushing,
A gate valve has tracks for the slide to run in. Should anything lodge in the track it will not close all the way.
A ball valve will always work in that any sediment it its path should rotate with it.
Is this right or am I paranoid.
A gate valve has tracks for the slide to run in. Should anything lodge in the track it will not close all the way.
A ball valve will always work in that any sediment it its path should rotate with it.
Is this right or am I paranoid.
I have wondered about this also and am looking forward to what others say. I guess it depends upon what the sediment is...fish poo really shouldn't be a problem but just 1 tiny pebble and you could have problems. ...???HTH said:
HTH
Howard
Gate valves are cheaper but about the only place I have seen them is spa's and swimming pools. Given two options where one is even a bit questionable I use the other option. The down side is you pay more up front in this case.
Apparently gate valves are not to be used in a pressurized system, but OK for gravity feed. So far I haven't had any problems with mine (I have four 3" gate valves), but I have had to replaced plenty of ball valves because they developed leaks. Just replaced one last week actually.HTH said:
One things for sure is 3" gate valves are cheaper than 3" ball valves, and easier to use.