Peroxide
- Thread starter Angie
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are you talking of the carpet algae? short green algae on the sides? that is good stuff.
OW yes leave the pump running, and you want good o2, even use an aerator.
OW yes leave the pump running, and you want good o2, even use an aerator.
Water movement would dilute the peroxide pretty fast so depending on where the algae was located you might want the pump off. Some info on hydrogen peroxide.
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I always left my pumps running and added air, it killed the string algae fast.
sissy
sissy
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I tried both but found turning them off for a few minutes and waiting for the peroxide to start working and then turning them back on works for the stubborn stuff better .I like the muck on the sides taddies get nice and fat from it
crsublette
coyotes call me Charles
Peroxides are outside of my comfort level after I read a thread about hydrogen peroxide or sodium percarbonate overdose comments.
I took a different route ... keep in mind though, I am only dealing with 435 gallons; so what is practical for me may likely be impractical for you, something to think about.
Changed the water chemistry. Don't think ya want to read an essay .. so a quick summary.
About 2 weeks ago my water feature's resevoir was quite thick in carpet algae and stringy type algae. So, I put the fish in a quarantine tank and did my best with the pond vac to suck up the algae in the resevoir bottom and walls; never touched the algae in the stream. This vaccuuming process was the equivalent of a big water change and the pre-treated water was the new water. Added Ammonium Hydroxide to make sure my beneficial bacteria was still ok; once my added ammonia dosages disappeared within 24 hours, then I added my fish back into the water feature.
Changed water chemistry ...
1) less susceptible to algae growth by lowering pH which binds phosphorus and allows aeration to expel more CO2 and makes nitrification more efficient
2) increased my trickle constant water change system which slowly does a 30% (130gal) water change over a week to control all the other nutrients in the water
2.a ) source water is coming from a 55 gallon drum where I pre-treat the water by mixing my very hard well water with di-RO water to maintain a 7.6pH ... currently working on automating this.
2.b ) old water is going into an overflow chamber which then gets pumped to water my trees or xericscape gardens. using a booster pump to maintain pressure on this line while water is flowing. I have alot of trees to water so all this water is going to be used for a good cause.
3) setup a little 20 gallon skippy bio-filter with a good size air diffusor to improve nitrification. ((currently working on perfecting my fancy trickle tower fountain that will replace my skippy)) Skippy will then use the tricktower media in a barn during the winter where I will keep my fish; still working out the details on this.
4) I do my best to maintain the algae in my streams by not disturbing nor vacuuming it.
5) I got some water nutrient heavy feeding pond plants such as Water Celery and Rushes.
Now, the rest of the algae, including the carpet algae on the rock walls, in the resevoir is slowly flaking away. Since all my water eventually flows through the stream, the stream's algae feed on this water so I guess this is why the algae in the stream is still doing well.
Heh, so, keep in mind though, I am only dealing with 435 gallons; so what is practical for me may likely be impractical for you, something to think about.
crsublette
coyotes call me Charles
I'm likely going overboard with the diffuser, but I was thinking of kind of evenly distributing the air.
O2 is slow to move thru water which is why adding an air diffuser to the bottom of a Skippy can change it from a very poor bio filter (compared to other filters) into a pretty good (not great) bio filter.
i leave mine running