Stupid mistake, Totally Devastated, Huge loss

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Ah man, Larkin, that's rough. I know parting ways with my first wife was one of the hardest things I ever had to do, and yet after all was said and done my stress level has gone down so far that I can't even believe how much it was affecting me. But I'm remarried, much happier now, and with someone who shares the same view on life. Hang in there, keep your eyes open for a new beginning, and don't let life knock you down.

(Yeah I know, advice at this stage is kinda worthless, but eventually you'll get over the pain and start moving forward again.)
 
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Kudos for the 2nd diaghram, except the pipe would enter at the top of the vortex rather than the bottom, as shown in this diagram.

These type of setups are commonly seen in gravity flow aqua-ponic systems.

I wouldn't even use a valve. I would keep the top of that pipe open, as shown in the picture attached below. The open pipe simply breaks the siphoning by injecting air preventing a water lock from being formed.

Rather than an open pipe, an "air relief ball valve", as named in farming irrigation lingo, would work if built right and would likely need to be installed on the side. When pressure is relieved, due to the pond's water level lowering at the pipe's height where the valve is installed, then the ball moves so to allow air to enter and this air breaks the siphon. When the pond's water level goes above the valve, then pressure is applied causing the ball to close the valve. Keep in mind there is some water "dribbling" out during the transition.


.
I'f during maintenance which i believe is how the mistake was made the airv alve would have to be shut to allow he bottom drain to be purged through the vortex detritus in the vortex is first ejected via a valve at its base which is open,this action also draws through any detritusin the bottom drain.
I dont know about larkin but I also do my water changes about now too , as such if the air valve was installef in my sysyem then it would have to be shut for the draining of he pond via the votex , now if I walked away from this system the arrvalve would be shut and the pond would continue to drain yes??
I control the amount of water by keeping the valve on the vortex shut/open open/shut twice which equates in my pond to 40% the vortex is a large 32".
Larkins bond is ten times the size than my own so I would think he purges the bottom drain then drains ready for he water change .
It would be very easy to forget this vortex vakve which is allways at its base Larkin was in a rush it got forgot possibly ditracted doing another job on the pond. sadly the pond drained , it would be the same for the air valve because with it open you couldnt purge the bottom drain or do a water change (the rest of the system isolated in my own and most probably in Larkins) means you can use the vortex in this way, an open airvalve would negate that draining to take place.

Larkin so sorry to hear this latest news we pray things may change for he good soon and remember this tomorrow is a whole new day "please keep your chin up as we Brits say".

Dave

Dave
 
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addy1

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Good luck Larkin, I was parted from my last hubby by death. My new hubby and I have a almost perfect life. At the time of the death I never dreamed life could be so good again.
So sorry you have to let your dream go. Find another dream to build.
 

j.w

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Sorry to hear this Larkin and hope things work out for both of you in the future. Life is full of surprises, some good and some bad and hopefully things will get better for you soon. May the good Lord watch over you and guide you in all that you do :)
 

crsublette

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I'f during maintenance which i believe is how the mistake was made the airv alve would have to be shut to allow he bottom drain to be purged through the vortex detritus in the vortex is first ejected via a valve at its base which is open,this action also draws through any detritusin the bottom drain.
I dont know about larkin but I also do my water changes about now too , as such if the air valve was installef in my sysyem then it would have to be shut for the draining of he pond via the votex , now if I walked away from this system the arrvalve would be shut and the pond would continue to drain yes??
I control the amount of water by keeping the valve on the vortex shut/open open/shut twice which equates in my pond to 40% the vortex is a large 32".
Larkins bond is ten times the size than my own so I would think he purges the bottom drain then drains ready for he water change .
It would be very easy to forget this vortex vakve which is allways at its base Larkin was in a rush it got forgot possibly ditracted doing another job on the pond. sadly the pond drained , it would be the same for the air valve because with it open you couldnt purge the bottom drain or do a water change (the rest of the system isolated in my own and most probably in Larkins) means you can use the vortex in this way, an open airvalve would negate that draining to take place.

Larkin so sorry to hear this latest news we pray things may change for he good soon and remember this tomorrow is a whole new day "please keep your chin up as we Brits say".

Dave

Dave


Yeah, in your scenario, then I would not connect the pond draining or purging via the vortex. Connecting the pond draining/purging via vortex is the failure point thus flaws of poor system designs. Solve this by not doing this and involving an air relief valve, as described in the picture attached below.

Air relief valves are designed, for both very low pressure and high pressure water lines, to stop water hammering, stop vacuuming effects, and to release air in the line. These valves work on pressure and all air valves have different pressure requirements. Air relief valves are often highly recommended for residential underground water well installments. These valves automatically open and close without human intervention.

The air relief valves we use on the farm work on very low pressure systems that only accrue up to 2~5% psi on spots. They work incredibly well except maintenance has to be done to reduce leakage.

I would have to do some research to know which specific type should be used for ponds. There are many many different constructions, including ones that do not allow clogging to interfere with the valve function.

This is not an expensive nor impossible problem to fix.

.
 

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waynefrcan

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That is so sad, it will take time to get over it. And I thought it was bad when I noticed my 2 $600 skimmer boxes leaking a few days ago.
 
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OK, so I've been PMing Dave to try and understand why he thinks diagram #2 would also drain a pond. To me this kind of thing is important because many people come here as guests looking for answers and to me plumbing a pond correctly so a pond can't drain is about as important as it gets.
StopPondDraining.jpg


Apparently when Dave said diagram #2 would also drain the pond he was imagining something that wasn't in the diagram. I was having a hard time understand this in the PMs, one because it wasn't in the diagram and two because it would be such a bad design it never occurred to me.

Apparently he thinks there should be a valve on the vent pipe. I think this has been called an "air valve", "relief valve" maybe. An owner could close the valve to do something I don't totally understand. So the pond could be drained or "purge" the bottom drain. Well yes, if a person did that it would indeed be bad. Diagram #2 is specifically to stop that, which is why diagram #2 won't drain the pond.

The other things, "being able to drain a pond" and "pruging the BD" are sparate issues. Just like the diagram didn't show a pump doesn't mean a pump isn't needed, it just means it isn't in the diagram. But yes pump placement is important, but it a complete blueprint of an entire system to show a single feature only serves to make a single point into a totally confusing mess.

So in addition to venting a pipe and running it so the pond won't drain should the vortex (or any filter) dump valve be left open we can add more features to the discussion.

Valve to drain pond
StopPondDrainingDrain.jpg

This is how to properly add the valve to drain the pond. The valve should be label, painted a different color, run to a location, pad locked, etc. You don't want 2 identical valves on 2 identical pipes right next to each other. Should you ever be away and someone else has to take care of your pond you want to make everything they have to as clear as possible.

Draining a pond is a very, very rare event. Replacing the liner, and I can't think of another reason. Because of that I would never, ever put the above drain valve on a pond. Lots of people new to ponds really, really want such a valve because to them they have lots of fantasies about how a pond works. It's difficult for them to believe a pond wouldn't need to be drained.

The reason I wouldn't add an emptying valve is two fold. First, it would drain the pond. Anyone reading this thread is hopefully somewhat aware of the issue of plumbing a pond that would allow this to happen. Second, I'm cheap and lazy. The emptying valve serves no useful purpose. Should the pond ever actually need to be drained I would just set a pump into the pond and empty it. Anyone keeping a pond at this level will/should have an extra pump at all times so it isn't an extra cost.

Purging the bottom drain.
I'm not sure I understand what Dave meant by this, but I assume it has to do with clearing a clog in the bottom drain.

I suppose you could plug the air vent and open the vortex and yes that could drain the pond should you walk away and go watch TV. Why a person would do this is strange and so yes if the clog were to suddenly clear that person will be screwed. There are lots of ways people can override any safety feature if they choose.

Aside from overriding a safety feature this stunt also isn't very effective. For a couple of reasons. First capping or closing the vent pipe does nothing. You have a clog right? That means there' no water in the horizontal drain pipe where the vent is located. When you close the "air valve" nothing is going to happen because there is air still in there. The clog isn't going to allow for enough water to enter and replace the air. Now, yes, there are all kinds of Rube Goldberg solutions to that, but we're really starting to go past the insane sign post at some point.

The second reason this wouldn't be effective is just the nature of clogs. When a BD clogs it's being pushed away from the pond. Trying to add more force to push it even harder may clear it.That's just like your bathroom sink. When clogged you can fill the sink to the top with water and hope the extra force will open the clog. I can't yes that would never work but have you ever seen that work. More often it won't.

The most effective way to clear a BD is to push it in the opposite direction. Shoving a garden hose down the vent pipe and snaking it thru the drain pipe (we used sweeps instead of 90's right?) it very effective. There are a couple of gizmos made to go onto a garden hose to create a very powerful jet just for the purpose of cleaning clogs. After that we break out the drain snake, same device used to the world over to clear household clogs. Works great.

So that's why diagram #2 is effective in not draining your pond and why the design shouldn't be "fixed".

This has been exhausting. It always seems to be exhausting to try and explain the simplest of pond building techniques in any forum these days. Back 20 years ago it was more fun, no one knew anything about pond because the backyard pond concept was new. There were tons of things to discuss, new ideas everyday. In any one forum there might be 5 ongoing threads about new filters like vortex, TT, settlement. I remember when I was designing the Muck Mop in a forum there were like 3 other people designing their own vacuums. We could discuss and discuss what changes we made that day, discuss improvement and even disagree. It was very exciting and creative.

I miss those days. When I post today I fantasize I'm back there. Maybe that's just getting old. I always hope to find that again but I think the web has changed. Back then there weren't any advertisements, forums were mainly for just for sharing ideas. Today it's all about getting as many eyeballs as possible. Getting as many eyeballs as possible and serious discussion seem to be at cross purposes.
 
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fishin4cars

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Great posts and information Waterbug, and Thanks for taking the time to research and understand the different scenarios.
On my system the fine filter Vortex by Deep Water innovations/ Zac Penn is attached at the pump outlet. The pump pushes the water from the sieve through the fines filter vortex and then to the shower. I think it's 300 micron and when there is more than normal algae in the water column it catches more than normal. During this time the vortex MUST be back-flushed daily. Sometimes twice a day. The issue with most of the diagrams is the system is designed to function under a vacuum, so placing a vent will reduce flow from the Bottom drain and take more water in through the vent, once the water level dropped below the vent then the pump will take the water from the bottom drain until the pump starves for water. I've talked to Zac a few times about the problem and he does not recommend going the route of using a vent or suction break. yes it may save the fish but at the cost of a very expensive pump. This is a compromise of using this type of system. Not so much a flaw, but a design issue that has to be addressed. he suggested going with a low water shut off designed for the amperage of the pump.
 

crsublette

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Great posts and information Waterbug, and Thanks for taking the time to research and understand the different scenarios.
On my system the fine filter Vortex by Deep Water innovations/ Zac Penn is attached at the pump outlet. The pump pushes the water from the sieve through the fines filter vortex and then to the shower. I think it's 300 micron and when there is more than normal algae in the water column it catches more than normal. During this time the vortex MUST be back-flushed daily. Sometimes twice a day. The issue with most of the diagrams is the system is designed to function under a vacuum, so placing a vent will reduce flow from the Bottom drain and take more water in through the vent, once the water level dropped below the vent then the pump will take the water from the bottom drain until the pump starves for water. I've talked to Zac a few times about the problem and he does not recommend going the route of using a vent or suction break. yes it may save the fish but at the cost of a very expensive pump. This is a compromise of using this type of system. Not so much a flaw, but a design issue that has to be addressed. 1) he suggested going with a low water shut off designed for the amperage of the pump.


The above discussed vents are designed to prevent a vacuum, unless you're not talking about a relief vent. So, if you're using a vacuum sieve, then, in addition to reducing flow, the negative pressure from the vacuum would actually force the vent to remain open, forcing air into the water line, and maybe breaking your pump's suction when the water level reaches low enough. Yeah, this is very sketchy at best.


1) he suggested going with a low water shut off designed for the amperage of the pump.

Bingo! Yep, Mr. Penn is a smart guy.

In this situation then either a bladder float switch in the pond (since there is not SC to set it in) or a conductivity switch in the pond or the conductivity switch outside of the pond in a buried water level sight gauge (next to the pond), such as shown in post#62.

Yeah, I have the same system from Mr. Penn, that is Zakki Sieve + MC50, if the MC50 is what you are describing as the "fines filter vortex". This is essentially connecting a pump directly to the BD, which is quite fine as long as proper switches are used and maintained and the one I use is mentioned in post#54 (14 amp allowance).
 
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On my system the fine filter Vortex by Deep Water innovations/ Zac Penn is attached at the pump outlet. The pump pushes the water from the sieve through the fines filter vortex and then to the shower.
Oh a Zakki Sieve? That would explain it.
 
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OK, so I've been PMing Dave to try and understand why he thinks diagram #2 would also drain a pond. To me this kind of thing is important because many people come here as guests looking for answers and to me plumbing a pond correctly so a pond can't drain is about as important as it gets.
StopPondDraining.jpg


Apparently when Dave said diagram #2 would also drain the pond he was imagining something that wasn't in the diagram. I was having a hard time understand this in the PMs, one because it wasn't in the diagram and two because it would be such a bad design it never occurred to me.

Apparently he thinks there should be a valve on the vent pipe. I think this has been called an "air valve", "relief valve" maybe. An owner could close the valve to do something I don't totally understand. So the pond could be drained or "purge" the bottom drain. Well yes, if a person did that it would indeed be bad. Diagram #2 is specifically to stop that, which is why diagram #2 won't drain the pond.

The other things, "being able to drain a pond" and "pruging the BD" are sparate issues. Just like the diagram didn't show a pump doesn't mean a pump isn't needed, it just means it isn't in the diagram. But yes pump placement is important, but it a complete blueprint of an entire system to show a single feature only serves to make a single point into a totally confusing mess.

So in addition to venting a pipe and running it so the pond won't drain should the vortex (or any filter) dump valve be left open we can add more features to the discussion.

Valve to drain pond
StopPondDrainingDrain.jpg

This is how to properly add the valve to drain the pond. The valve should be label, painted a different color, run to a location, pad locked, etc. You don't want 2 identical valves on 2 identical pipes right next to each other. Should you ever be away and someone else has to take care of your pond you want to make everything they have to as clear as possible.

Draining a pond is a very, very rare event. Replacing the liner, and I can't think of another reason. Because of that I would never, ever put the above drain valve on a pond. Lots of people new to ponds really, really want such a valve because to them they have lots of fantasies about how a pond works. It's difficult for them to believe a pond wouldn't need to be drained.

The reason I wouldn't add an emptying valve is two fold. First, it would drain the pond. Anyone reading this thread is hopefully somewhat aware of the issue of plumbing a pond that would allow this to happen. Second, I'm cheap and lazy. The emptying valve serves no useful purpose. Should the pond ever actually need to be drained I would just set a pump into the pond and empty it. Anyone keeping a pond at this level will/should have an extra pump at all times so it isn't an extra cost.

Purging the bottom drain.
I'm not sure I understand what Dave meant by this, but I assume it has to do with clearing a clog in the bottom drain.

I suppose you could plug the air vent and open the vortex and yes that could drain the pond should you walk away and go watch TV. Why a person would do this is strange and so yes if the clog were to suddenly clear that person will be screwed. There are lots of ways people can override any safety feature if they choose.

Aside from overriding a safety feature this stunt also isn't very effective. For a couple of reasons. First capping or closing the vent pipe does nothing. You have a clog right? That means there' no water in the horizontal drain pipe where the vent is located. When you close the "air valve" nothing is going to happen because there is air still in there. The clog isn't going to allow for enough water to enter and replace the air. Now, yes, there are all kinds of Rube Goldberg solutions to that, but we're really starting to go past the insane sign post at some point.

The second reason this wouldn't be effective is just the nature of clogs. When a BD clogs it's being pushed away from the pond. Trying to add more force to push it even harder may clear it.That's just like your bathroom sink. When clogged you can fill the sink to the top with water and hope the extra force will open the clog. I can't yes that would never work but have you ever seen that work. More often it won't.

The most effective way to clear a BD is to push it in the opposite direction. Shoving a garden hose down the vent pipe and snaking it thru the drain pipe (we used sweeps instead of 90's right?) it very effective. There are a couple of gizmos made to go onto a garden hose to create a very powerful jet just for the purpose of cleaning clogs. After that we break out the drain snake, same device used to the world over to clear household clogs. Works great.

So that's why diagram #2 is effective in not draining your pond and why the design shouldn't be "fixed".

This has been exhausting. It always seems to be exhausting to try and explain the simplest of pond building techniques in any forum these days. Back 20 years ago it was more fun, no one knew anything about pond because the backyard pond concept was new. There were tons of things to discuss, new ideas everyday. In any one forum there might be 5 ongoing threads about new filters like vortex, TT, settlement. I remember when I was designing the Muck Mop in a forum there were like 3 other people designing their own vacuums. We could discuss and discuss what changes we made that day, discuss improvement and even disagree. It was very exciting and creative.

I miss those days. When I post today I fantasize I'm back there. Maybe that's just getting old. I always hope to find that again but I think the web has changed. Back then there weren't any advertisements, forums were mainly for just for sharing ideas. Today it's all about getting as many eyeballs as possible. Getting as many eyeballs as possible and serious discussion seem to be at cross purposes.
Waterbug honesly man just what is your problem with me "eh"!!!!..... I find myself slated by you in a PM using words like "crap and freak", only after having much of the last 24 hours away nursing Val after another fall find you slating me online as well all because I suggested a valve instead of a vent
Please desist !!!........................
 

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